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Old 03-05-2013, 04:20 AM   #1966
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i don`t have a facebook acount
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It's a carbon bridge like the NT1 has for roll center adjustment
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Old 03-05-2013, 06:18 AM   #1967
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Hi,

Yeah, I do the same on my C801. It gives a bit more suspension travel and a bit more steering. You could also raise the front dampers 1 hole in the shock tower.. Or run a bit softer spring upfront.

There are many ways to create just a bit more steering, above is just a few. Another thing you should consider is if you need a bit more steering in the corner or out of the corner :-)..

Br,

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its off power and under braking which i mainly suffer since our track is full of 180 tight chicanes.
Raising the front damper, wouldn't that make the spring harder?
Are there any suspensions softer than white?
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Old 03-05-2013, 08:18 AM   #1968
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its off power and under braking which i mainly suffer since our track is full of 180 tight chicanes.
Raising the front damper, wouldn't that make the spring harder?
Are there any suspensions softer than white?
Raising the front damper, wouldn't that make the spring harder?
yes, and that gives you more turn in. Softer springs will get you more steering overall but turn in will suffer


Some things you can try to get turn in with brake on; with numbers on first and so on,

7- front shocks vertical position.
8-dampingoil step harder front and rear
1-rear more upward travel, downstops lower value
2-front higher rc ,faster responce
rear higher rc
3-rear harder arb
9-rear shocks more vertical
10-rear upperlink more vertical
11-harder rear tire
6-softer front tire
5-front width less
4-srs body

less harder diff oil in the front is also an option
hope it will help you

Last edited by djiewie; 03-05-2013 at 08:31 AM.
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Old 03-05-2013, 09:36 AM   #1969
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Default Worlds setups

Strangely I can't seem to find any setups from the recent worlds
Jilles, Reinhard etc zero zip zilch

Does anyone have any links
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Old 03-05-2013, 06:40 PM   #1970
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i don`t have a facebook acount
would you post it here
I hope I don't get in trouble for stealing pictures
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Old 03-05-2013, 06:46 PM   #1971
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Old 03-06-2013, 12:45 AM   #1972
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Originally Posted by djiewie View Post
Raising the front damper, wouldn't that make the spring harder?
yes, and that gives you more turn in. Softer springs will get you more steering overall but turn in will suffer


Some things you can try to get turn in with brake on; with numbers on first and so on,

7- front shocks vertical position.
8-dampingoil step harder front and rear
1-rear more upward travel, downstops lower value
2-front higher rc ,faster responce
rear higher rc
3-rear harder arb
9-rear shocks more vertical
10-rear upperlink more vertical
11-harder rear tire
6-softer front tire
5-front width less
4-srs body

less harder diff oil in the front is also an option
hope it will help you
All of above are very suggestions.

One simple thing I forgot to mention is that you could try just to give the car less caster. That will also give you more turn it, but it will give less steering out of the corner. So it's a compromise, as always

But it's an easy adjustment, because you just move the caster clips up front.
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Old 03-06-2013, 04:28 AM   #1973
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Originally Posted by trickd122 View Post
Strangely I can't seem to find any setups from the recent worlds
Jilles, Reinhard etc zero zip zilch

Does anyone have any links
They all used an extra-ordinary super soft setup, there was so much traction that if they used "stiff and low" the cars would snap into traction rolls.

I'll ask our aussie team boss what they used and see if we can get some setups posted. Marc Rheinhard, Peter Jovanovic, and Tironi, will keep you posted.
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Old 03-06-2013, 09:37 AM   #1974
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Originally Posted by RC-Netshop.dk View Post
All of above are very suggestions.

One simple thing I forgot to mention is that you could try just to give the car less caster. That will also give you more turn it, but it will give less steering out of the corner. So it's a compromise, as always

But it's an easy adjustment, because you just move the caster clips up front.
7- front shocks vertical position.
Im in the middle hole so will try going one more

8-dampingoil step harder front and rear
problem of going harder since track is bumby

1-rear more upward travel, downstops lower value
i am at 4 if i go more im sure it will make the rear to loose

2-front higher rc ,faster responce - rear higher rc
Front is in the middle so wil try and raise it, rear i am almost at max
The higher the front roll center the faster the response, so if i shorten the link aswell will it also help?

3-rear harder arb
i am using the one before the hardest

9-rear shocks more vertical
OK

10-rear upperlink more vertical
done

11-harder rear tire
using 42

6-softer front tire
using 37 best combo feel 37/42 contact

5-front width less
running 197 front and 200 rear, can i go tighter?

4-srs body
OK
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Old 03-06-2013, 10:44 AM   #1975
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speed6 View Post
7- front shocks vertical position.
Im in the middle hole so will try going one more

8-dampingoil step harder front and rear
problem of going harder since track is bumby

1-rear more upward travel, downstops lower value
i am at 4 if i go more im sure it will make the rear to loose

2-front higher rc ,faster responce - rear higher rc
Front is in the middle so wil try and raise it, rear i am almost at max
The higher the front roll center the faster the response, so if i shorten the link aswell will it also help?

3-rear harder arb
i am using the one before the hardest

9-rear shocks more vertical
OK

10-rear upperlink more vertical
done

11-harder rear tire
using 42

6-softer front tire
using 37 best combo feel 37/42 contact

5-front width less
running 197 front and 200 rear, can i go tighter?

4-srs body
OK

A bit softer front diff?
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Old 03-06-2013, 12:10 PM   #1976
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A bit softer front diff?
Tried softer front diff 80,000 since X-ray guys run that type of setup but under steer under braking increased drastically so went back to 120,000
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Old 03-06-2013, 12:45 PM   #1977
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speed6 View Post
7- front shocks vertical position.
Im in the middle hole so will try going one more

8-dampingoil step harder front and rear
problem of going harder since track is bumby , ok for bumpy track lower downstops rear and front normal is 1 and 4 and for bumpy 0 and 3 shock oil has less effect harder is better but its ok

1-rear more upward travel, downstops lower value
i am at 4 if i go more im sure it will make the rear to loose try it first with an hard diff oil front, then lower the diffoil

2-front higher rc ,faster responce - rear higher rc
Front is in the middle so wil try and raise it , rear i am almost at max lower the rear , max in not good
The higher the front roll center the faster the response, so if i shorten the link aswell will it also help?

3-rear harder arb
i am using the one before the hardest if its 2,4 than its ok don`t go harder

9-rear shocks more vertical
OK

10-rear upperlink more vertical
done one step a time is best

11-harder rear tire
using 42

6-softer front tire
using 37 best combo feel 37/42 contact ok

5-front width less
running 197 front and 200 rear, can i go tighter?
no thats the max you are already there
4-srs body
OK
Step 2 on turn in;

rear toe-in less try 1,5

just what nico said, forgot that, first less caster , all the shims in the rear.
sorry Nico its the other way to get turnin clips in the rear instead of front moves the upper arm to the front and this has less caster, more upright.

the front of cap use a brace, the cap is less firm there compared with the nt1, but it has a effect on high speed turns only and depends an the amout of bumpsteer you have.

Ohh thats right, remove any bump steer in and get bump steer out.

use one piece motormount

ackerman full. thats the links straight and nog angled, but thats with the nt1 with the cap look in the manual

front toe-out more , say 2mm

more weight in the rear of the car, weight balance rearward

Have fun with the try-out and remember settings always effect each other.
SO ONE AT A TIME, let the car handling grow on you, take your time to adjust to the car responceness. a twitchy car is scary at first untill you get used to it, then the speed will show

Show us some pictures of the car front and rear to look at the settings. Pictures are always nice.

Last edited by djiewie; 03-06-2013 at 01:23 PM.
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Old 03-06-2013, 12:58 PM   #1978
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Tried softer front diff 80,000 since X-ray guys run that type of setup but under steer under braking increased drastically so went back to 120,000
thats exactly what can be expected because it only works in combination with the rear
so 80000 fr with 60000rear and better 40000 rear for tight corners

cap has 150000 fr with 80000 rear i believe.

Last edited by djiewie; 03-06-2013 at 01:12 PM.
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Old 03-06-2013, 02:04 PM   #1979
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Originally Posted by speed6 View Post
7- front shocks vertical position.
Im in the middle hole so will try going one more

8-dampingoil step harder front and rear
problem of going harder since track is bumby

1-rear more upward travel, downstops lower value
i am at 4 if i go more im sure it will make the rear to loose

2-front higher rc ,faster responce - rear higher rc
Front is in the middle so wil try and raise it, rear i am almost at max
The higher the front roll center the faster the response, so if i shorten the link aswell will it also help?

3-rear harder arb
i am using the one before the hardest

9-rear shocks more vertical
OK

10-rear upperlink more vertical
done

11-harder rear tire
using 42

6-softer front tire
using 37 best combo feel 37/42 contact

5-front width less
running 197 front and 200 rear, can i go tighter?

4-srs body
OK
I'm sorry and it's not to offend you, but if you have done all above and still missing turn in. Then I'm starting to think there's something mechanical wrong.

A few things to check and I have done these mistakes myself so talking from experience .

You haven't mixed front left and right steering hub? Or set the steering turnbuckles on the left and right side wrong, so the steering angle and limited in full/max steering angle? Or played with the expo on you transmitter, so you have a lot of negative expo?

As djiwie says, you need to make one set-up change at the time and run a few laps or even tanks to get used to it. Of course major changes you feel at once. And as he also points out that one change will effect another, so do the changes well thought and structured.

We are testing a lot with the TE01 (caps new electric car) and my very good friend and driver Michael Johnsen is extremely structured and good at testing everything back and forth. And before making any setup changes he always runs 2-3 batteries on our test track with same set-up as last time, so we know how the track is today and what lap times we can expect before making any changes.

Sorry for all the "preaching" but we need to get your Cap running as excellent as all the rest of them :-)...
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Old 03-06-2013, 03:31 PM   #1980
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I'm sorry and it's not to offend you, but if you have done all above and still missing turn in. Then I'm starting to think there's something mechanical wrong.

A few things to check and I have done these mistakes myself so talking from experience .

You haven't mixed front left and right steering hub? Or set the steering turnbuckles on the left and right side wrong, so the steering angle and limited in full/max steering angle? Or played with the expo on you transmitter, so you have a lot of negative expo?

As djiwie says, you need to make one set-up change at the time and run a few laps or even tanks to get used to it. Of course major changes you feel at once. And as he also points out that one change will effect another, so do the changes well thought and structured.

We are testing a lot with the TE01 (caps new electric car) and my very good friend and driver Michael Johnsen is extremely structured and good at testing everything back and forth. And before making any setup changes he always runs 2-3 batteries on our test track with same set-up as last time, so we know how the track is today and what lap times we can expect before making any changes.

Sorry for all the "preaching" but we need to get your Cap running as excellent as all the rest of them :-)...
Will post some images over the weekend, car is in top condition i take care of her more than i do of myself .
The car is great but that bit more of steering is making me loose .20 / .30 of a sec and when you are leading the national champ those type of split seconds count a real lot especially when the 2nd and 3rd drivers are up your arse.

I am impressed of how xray cars turn at our local track in to the chicanes they really make it looks so easy and turn really tight, on the other hand with the CAP i always had to be quite aggresive to get the best out of the car going in to the chicanes.

What is negative expo? I also was surprised that the front of the CAP flexes more than the Xray since they have so much steering.

I am also using the new Kevlar diffs front and rear. Hope they are not causing the trouble since they loosen a bit the diff more than the stock ones.

Car is getting more understeer half way a 15min race so i beleive that the car is touching upfront in corner entry (half way the race)so will stick some thin material under the front of the chassis in order to check.

Have the Brass engine mount but not the one piece which i tried and went back to stock as i needed to shave some more weight. If you guys insist will give it a retry.

Thanks everyone
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