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Old 03-28-2010, 07:30 PM   #181
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Can you guys who have run the car several times please post your setups? Tosolini have a setup anywhere online? Really struggled first time out today with the car with the stock setup.

Thanks

Brad
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Old 04-01-2010, 08:33 PM   #182
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Chris,

Thanks for the Info. I really appreciate it. Just had a few additional questions regarding setup. What roll centers do you typically run? Also springs? Where and the world can I get ahold of 150k diff oil? I assume capricorn makes it? I run the car at Speedworld in Roseville Ca. I know you have been to that track a few times in the past. Somewhat tight for nitro racing with Medium grip for the most part during club races. Not sure if that helps with setup recommendations?

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Old 04-01-2010, 09:27 PM   #183
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Brad whatsup this Chet. If cap doesn't hav the oil. Try kyosho, I got 300k! last week.........
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Old 04-02-2010, 02:50 PM   #184
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went shiping to malaysia?
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Old 04-04-2010, 02:56 PM   #185
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Quote:
shock oil 500 up to 700 depending on what you like
Hi Chris & Co...

..our SetUps differ a lot from that.

With 2-holes we are running 300-400cps oil, with 3-holes 400-500cps oil on our high traction indoor track.
Maybe this is because of the temperatures beeing between 0C and 10C inside.

With the stock 2-holes and 600 combo the car is way to much up in the air :-)

Stock springs work very good, Kyosho blue and dark blue too...depends on you.

Rollcenter front...highest position, just as Chris said.
Stabilizer front...soft or max 45deg
Front diff...80k (only when using a vacuum pump) up to 120k-200k (without vacuum pump)
very much caster

Lower rear rollcenter...lowest position or one higher
rear diff...50k (only when using a vacuum pump) up to 70k-100k (without vacuum pump)
Upper rear rollcenter...completely outside/high or oh lower

What we also recognized...that the higher and further outside you put in the rear upper rollcenter the more stable the car gets under accelleration...

What also helps a lot when your rear end suffers traction is to run the shorter wheelbase. More traction without losing turn...nice

We get better and better with the car, already having the pace of the rest of the field...and outdoor season starts in two weeks...we'll see where we end up.


Regarda...MARTIN
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Old 04-04-2010, 03:23 PM   #186
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Martin glad to hear you are making progress with the new car. Wish I could say the same on my end, my car is super twitchy off power and once you appy throttle just pushes like a crazy. I tried different caster changes, camber changes and stiffer front bar but nothing helped. Going to either go to 200k front diff or try a spool I'm hoping that will help the car out. Any suggestions?

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Old 04-04-2010, 04:33 PM   #187
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Quote:
my car is super twitchy off power
Try to run only a little droop on the rear...not allowing the car to lift up to far off power. This will give your car less weight transfer to the front. About 3mm of chassis-droop should work.
Also try to run the rear end 2-3mm narrower compared to the front...maybe 200f-197r or 199f-197r...
Try max caster (that also helps on power steering)...
If a car gets lose on the rear under braking I also suggest harder rear springs or softer front ones. A softer front will reduce the load on the front wheels off power and under braking but will give slightly more steering during cornering.
Also remind the shock oils we are running here in Germany...maybe you give them a try.
Running less camber will give you the feeling of a more aggressive turn in but will reduce steering after.


To have a stable but tight cornering car we tried the short wheelbase and that gave us best results.
Also less chassis-droop on the front...only 2-3mm...to avoid too much lift.
Max caster.
Highest roll center position on the upper susp. arm.
Then try to run a cluth that you have the full control or "feeling" of. That means that it does not hit too hard...as the car with it's ultralight transmission will give you immediate response and tends to push to the outside. (imagine the front wheels to lift under load).

We've tried to run a spool but drivers did not like the feeling it gave...so we went back to the 80k-200k front. Seems like the car does not like that huge differences between front and rear diff.

Better try the different Ackermann plates. 10 will be very agressive compared to 12 that will make your car much easier to drive.


Compared to every other car having the traditional composite plastic bulks the quite stiff LAB C01 gives much better but also much more response on changes.
Today we have tried some different tires (rims and rubber) and Xray vs. Capricorn springs. We ended unsing the Capricorn HardLight tires and kit springs...most impressive was that the differences the changes made were that huge. From fast to pretty much faster

And last but not least 2010 is the new year of touring bodies. Having some very promising news. Blitz in two versions, Xceed with two bodies, Protoform with a new one...will be very interesting to find the body you like most :-(


--- MARTIN ---
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Old 04-08-2010, 07:14 PM   #188
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Quote:
I never tried the car shorter because it is short, what did it do better?
The shorter rear adds traction to the rear, moving the susp.arms closer to the center of the car and weight. But you will not feel the same amount in loss of steering...so the car is more stable hitting the throttle hard out of tight corners but the pushing under load that appears with some drivers reduces too.
Crazy thing...wheelbase

As you said the car already is very short...compared to others.

Quote:
Also the rear upper link? You liked shorter? Why?
We are not sure about the rear upper arm position. So far the shortest one was the one that gave the cars running here the most predictable rear.
Although the fastest Capricorn car running here at our track hast them in the mid position.
Outer position is always out/long.

End of the month we will have our first national qualification outdoor.
Maybe things will change a bit with the lower grip level outdoor.
Then the famous 2010 body question appears again... Xceed Chevy, Xceed Audi, Blitz RS4, Blitz ISF, Blitz Altis, Protoform R5N...

Any ideas...? Chris you were running the Chevy...?!


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Old 04-08-2010, 08:06 PM   #189
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Tosolini View Post
I think Epic might have some....
No dice on the 70k oil on their web site, anyone know of anywhere that stocks the 70k oil?
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Old 04-09-2010, 09:19 AM   #190
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Exclamation Silicone Olive Oil?

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Originally Posted by rx7ttlm View Post
No dice on the 70k oil on their web site, anyone know of anywhere that stocks the 70k oil?
CapricornRC's (Italian) website says they have the oil in stock, so Trinity should be able to S-O it for you. I'd call them.
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Old 04-09-2010, 09:50 AM   #191
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do any of you know wich clutch shoe color is the one to go for a mid-high grip track?
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Old 04-09-2010, 12:46 PM   #192
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CHIS YOU HAVE A PM CHECK YOUR MESSAGES SHAWN DAVIS FROM BALTIMORE MD
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Old 04-09-2010, 01:08 PM   #193
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Quote:
Originally Posted by el salvador View Post
CapricornRC's (Italian) website says they have the oil in stock, so Trinity should be able to S-O it for you. I'd call them.
thanks kitty sniper... lmao
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Old 04-09-2010, 01:21 PM   #194
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Originally Posted by rx7ttlm View Post
thanks kitty sniper... lmao
Yes!........only Extra, Extra Virgin 70,000 wt Oil will do.........



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Old 04-10-2010, 08:42 PM   #195
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I got my kit and started building it,I am not happy when I find two right side steering knuckles.I need a left and a right.Thankfully my local hobby shop has got replacement parts for the car.It is a very nice car and parts fit is very good.I hope to try it next weekend in Toledo
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