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Old 10-04-2012, 02:04 PM   #1771
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If you don't use the grubscrews you will need to replace the shoes more often. I don't use the screws because I feel the gearbox shifts smoother and consistent without them.
I use around 3 sets of shoes a year.
+1

I am not sure if the two speed drum on a C01 is the same size as those on a C02 but, at our national titles last weekend a friend was using grub screws on his 2 speed and the shoes were seized open. On inspection the grub screws had etched deep gouges into the metal cylinders and caused the failure.

While the 2 speed drum in a C02 will go floppy without grub screws they have worked consistently for us for a year and I replaced them at the nats just as a precaution. For low power engines the grub screw may be the only option and it is a painful scenario to dismantle for inspection them and then reset/tune them again.

I also agree that the shift change on a C02 is the smoothest on any car we have owned and perhaps it's due to the fact that there isnt a grub screw (metal on metal)
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Old 10-05-2012, 06:03 AM   #1772
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Hi

Marc Rheinard joins Capricorn for Thailand Worlds

Info from Redrc.net
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Old 10-05-2012, 07:17 AM   #1773
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Hi

Marc Rheinard joins Capricorn for Thailand Worlds

Info from Redrc.net
Many top 1/10 electric TC drivers expected to show up.Nitro touring is on the rise
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Old 10-21-2012, 03:58 PM   #1774
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Default shock length???

Fellas quick question......did you build your front/rear shocks the exact same length? Bought my car used n the front n rear shocks r the same length......
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Old 10-21-2012, 04:35 PM   #1775
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Fellas quick question......did you build your front/rear shocks the exact same length? Bought my car used n the front n rear shocks r the same length......
I build the front and rear shocks to be 66mm full extended.
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Old 10-22-2012, 02:06 PM   #1776
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I build the front and rear shocks to be 66mm full extended.
Thanks
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Old 10-24-2012, 09:07 PM   #1777
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Default upperdeck questions...

1st off let me say, good run at the nats........Quick question....How are you running your upperdeck on your C02? stock, custom cut, or like jilles completely cut away from the steering post?? can u post pics of your car when you get a chance.....no rush!!
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Old 10-25-2012, 08:11 AM   #1778
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Here is the picture for you. Hope it helps. Sorry for the dirty car, but have not cleaned it since I got back from the Nationals. Too busy at work.

DJ Apolaro
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Old 10-25-2012, 08:32 AM   #1779
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Thanks
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Old 11-06-2012, 07:31 PM   #1780
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Fellas quick question........about "hard" "soft" compound for the plastics.....
Are the stock plastics considered hard? Or soft....
Is the soft more like xray plastic? And hard is less flex, settings stay more true but more brittle?
Is this correct hard lower arms for more precise droop, soft upper frnt arms and knuckles incase of wreck, soft rear upper arms incase impact, hard rear lower arms and knuckles.....what do you think??
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Old 11-07-2012, 05:47 AM   #1781
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1evo RRR Driver View Post
Fellas quick question........about "hard" "soft" compound for the plastics.....
Are the stock plastics considered hard? Or soft....
Is the soft more like xray plastic? And hard is less flex, settings stay more true but more brittle?
Is this correct hard lower arms for more precise droop, soft upper frnt arms and knuckles incase of wreck, soft rear upper arms incase impact, hard rear lower arms and knuckles.....what do you think??
The soft plastics are indeed comparable with Xray plastic.
The standard plastic is a bit harder.
The hard plastic is really hard, you need a good screw driver and some elbow grease to get the pivot balls in the first time.

It's another tuning option and it depends on the track.
On a bumpy, low traction track the soft plastic will make the car easier to drive and give it a larger operating window.

On a very high traction track, or when it's hot the hard plastics work very well. They make sure the car keeps it cornerspeed and doesn't become 'stuck' in the corners. For a big event where they are using additive I would recommend the hard plastics.
The hard plastics are also very strong.
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Old 11-07-2012, 09:49 AM   #1782
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Default Tire sauce applicator version 2

Can someone post a pic of the wiring for the lights on version2 of the tire sauce machine? Or send me to a website that has some wiring instructions?

Thx
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Old 11-22-2012, 01:19 AM   #1783
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Default Zero Force Capricorn LAB-C01 Bearing kit set

Zero Force Capricorn LAB-C01 Bearing kit set (16pcs) (ZF-N12010)

Capricorn LAB-C01-c01_wm.jpg

www.rcgoods.com
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Old 11-22-2012, 02:59 PM   #1784
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Zero Force Capricorn LAB-C01 Bearing kit set (16pcs) (ZF-N12010)

Attachment 995106

www.rcgoods.com
Your bearings kit would only be right for the superseded CO1, but the product description says ten 10x16x4 mm bearings; which is not enough; the car needs twelve of those. A similar kit for the CO2 model would have:

10 - 10x16x4 mm
2 - 10x15x4 mm
2 - 6x13x5 mm
2 – 6x10x4 mm

To check if price is right; these standard bearings would set you back a total of $16.00 at http://www.avidrc.com/product/8/metric-bearings/

In addition anyone racing the CO2 would be well advised to keep spare 3x6x2.5 mm flanged bearings for rocker belt tensioner http://www.avidrc.com/product/8/metr...-bearings.html, cutch (5x8x2.5 & 5x10x4mm) and 2 speed housing bearings (6x10x3mm). Those are the only the bearings that need very frequent replacement.

All of those are available for $1.00 at Avid Bearings. Boca Bearings keeps good stocks of ceramic bearings.

Kindest regards,
Lars.
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Last edited by Chickentrader; 11-22-2012 at 05:38 PM.
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Old 11-22-2012, 04:23 PM   #1785
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Default Parts List

Hi All,

Does anyone know where to get a full parts listing for capricorn parts? C-02 mainly.

Thanks,
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