R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-30-2012, 05:56 AM   #1576
Tech Master
 
impalabob64's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: florida
Posts: 1,464
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to impalabob64
Thumbs up First run Lab C01

I picked up an good Lab C01 ran it this weekend at a clubrace wow the car is insane with an OS Speed 12 XZ was able to put me 4th position in the A-final though it was only a 15min main was able to finish 2nd.Still have more to learn about the car, i would like to thank DJ for the setup help.
__________________
RoninRc.com
MurnanModifiedMotors
Basher BT-4
impalabob64 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2012, 06:52 AM   #1577
Tech Elite
 
British Menace's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Davenport, IA
Posts: 2,336
Default

Congratulations on the run .... I'm just waiting for my car to come through the mail. Hopefully it wont be much longer......

BM
__________________
So enjoying building cars I sometimes forget to save some "man-time" to race them!?
British Menace is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2012, 06:17 PM   #1578
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 572
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dj apolaro View Post
Those are the correct extensions. I just have the old one's that are not steel.

As for the rear suspension. Yes it does make it softer and more progressive, however it gives the car more rotation and combined with my set-up I still have a car that responds good.

When the rear shocks have more angle they have more apex rotation.

DJ Apolaro
Tried the above but lost too much steering.

Did some timing and with the RED springs I was around /average .35 faster per lap than with the BLACK springs.

I also run the 6 hole pistons with 1000 diff oil, since I went to RED from BLACK shall I run lighter oil 800 for eg?

Thanks
speed6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2012, 04:49 AM   #1579
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 108
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by speed6 View Post
Tried the above but lost too much steering.

Did some timing and with the RED springs I was around /average .35 faster per lap than with the BLACK springs.

I also run the 6 hole pistons with 1000 diff oil, since I went to RED from BLACK shall I run lighter oil 800 for eg?

Thanks
usually we use
6 hole 2000wt =2hole 650wt
6 hole 1800wt=2hole 600wt
CapricornRC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2012, 05:52 AM   #1580
Tech Elite
 
dj apolaro's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Miami, Fl.
Posts: 2,399
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by speed6 View Post
Tried the above but lost too much steering.

Did some timing and with the RED springs I was around /average .35 faster per lap than with the BLACK springs.

I also run the 6 hole pistons with 1000 diff oil, since I went to RED from BLACK shall I run lighter oil 800 for eg?

Thanks
When using 6 holes you need a heavier oil. The initial response of the car comes from the pistons resistance initially. At the moment you have no resistance and therefore the car is lazy in comparison. The way you have it will give more steering in the middle of the turn, but on entry will be less. The heavier oil about 1500-2000 will provided better turn in.

The shock position laid down gave you less turn in I am sure. However combining that with shorter camber links and stiffer front sway bar has made my car have plenty of steering and response.

DJ Apolaro
__________________
Capricorn RC, Capricorn Tires, Novarossi World, Spektrum, Horizon Hobby, PROTOform, RCTarget, IGT8.
dj apolaro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2012, 07:33 PM   #1581
Tech Regular
 
rowveg36's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 346
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Guys, I'm sorry if this has been ask before.. What is the difference between the blue and red clutch? W/c one grips better? Thanks for the info..
rowveg36 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2012, 11:49 PM   #1582
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 572
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dj apolaro View Post
When using 6 holes you need a heavier oil. The initial response of the car comes from the pistons resistance initially. At the moment you have no resistance and therefore the car is lazy in comparison. The way you have it will give more steering in the middle of the turn, but on entry will be less. The heavier oil about 1500-2000 will provided better turn in.

The shock position laid down gave you less turn in I am sure. However combining that with shorter camber links and stiffer front sway bar has made my car have plenty of steering and response.

DJ Apolaro
So if I am running on a bumby and most of the time dirty track what do you recommend to combine red springs as for shock oil?

Have you ever tried shortening the front camber link? Does it work
speed6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2012, 12:22 PM   #1583
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 46
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1nsane View Post
I have a problem with front downstops. Whatever I do, if I crash or not, with optional aluminium downstop part or stock system, front downstop settings change all the time. Even with loctite. I need your solutions

During first round of Turkish Nationals, I managed to get a busted rear mount bearing ( with optional magnesium mount Cap-16037N, 2 speed side bearing ). Probably my bad because I did not clean the bearings before A-Main.

Thank you
Still need help thank you
1nsane is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2012, 02:03 PM   #1584
Tech Elite
 
Chickentrader's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Landsborough, Queensland, Australia.
Posts: 2,142
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1nsane View Post
Still need help thank you
There are more experienced people than myself that may have a better solution to the changing droop than what I can here, but I’ll share our experience since you need an answer. I don’t know how experienced you are, so please don’t be offended if I sound a little patronising.

First of all click on this link: Michael Salven Pro tips part 4 and watch the section about downstops.

Always check for tweak after each race; you’ll have problems setting up a tweaked car! Swaybars can make affect droop settings if the car is tweaked, and its very important to set the eccentric tweak adjusters (for blade) or wire swaybar adjusters for the swaybar correctly. And check that the tweak adjuster has not come loose, if you use a blade sway bar.

Its best to ignore M.S.’s advice and disconnect both shockies and sway bar for as start, and get it perfect with all disconnected. Aluminium treads wear when screws are moved a few times, and you need to use medium or low grip threadlock, just like you do to stop the grub screws from moving. We sometimes find that our front droop has changed marginally between races, but never as much as a full 1 mm, but we don’t see it as a major problem. Not sure what causes it, but it’s not swaybar, not tweak and we can feel the threadlock breaking loose when readjusting the grub screws, so perhaps it caused by slight changes to too pliable little downstop lugs on the arms.

We also think that M.S. has a point with his advice about adjusting the droop with shockies on, but we feel that its better to start without them on, and then check again with shockies on when its all done. We usually check droop settings between races with swaybars and shockies on, and against all teachings; our experience is that minor corrections to droop can be made without disconnecting anything. Before someone shoots me for this statement; we have actually tested it sometimes after minor corrections when the droop seems to have changed marginally, and then checked with swaybar disconnected. And we have never found a different droop reading to the first one for a car with no tweak. However we would welcome any input about this matter from anyone that disagrees.

Perhaps Harry has something to add or some remarks about this.

Kindest regards,
Lars.
__________________
Support your local RC stores - they support our sport!
Social media The empowerment of the small individual to enforce democratic process at the expense of dishonesty.

Last edited by Chickentrader; 05-06-2012 at 02:15 PM.
Chickentrader is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2012, 06:25 PM   #1585
Tech Elite
 
blis's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 3,434
Default

Not sure he means droop ("chassis upstop" preventing arms lowering) or down stop ("chassis downstop" preventing arms rising and chassis bottoming out). I never use downstops, I let the chassis plate do it for us.

So I wrote this

http://www.rctech.net/forum/10699491-post111.html
__________________
RC Cars: E4/G4/TCX/LAB-C02/T4'15/MM Engines
WEB: Beachmums Racing - MYRCM Race Registration
Media: Amain - RCRacingTV - RedRC - LiveRC - blisx264

Last edited by blis; 05-06-2012 at 07:14 PM.
blis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2012, 08:14 PM   #1586
Tech Elite
 
dj apolaro's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Miami, Fl.
Posts: 2,399
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by speed6 View Post
So if I am running on a bumpy and most of the time dirty track what do you recommend to combine red springs as for shock oil?

Have you ever tried shortening the front camber link? Does it work
I am not sure what you mean by shortening the front camber link. Do you mean making the track width narrower???

As for the shocks, I would try on a bumpy track 3 piston front and 4 piston rear with 50 or 55 wt shock oil. Maybe even try to drill the hole in the piston to 1mm. If you do this use the 55 wt oil.

Also on the bumpy track I would use white springs in the front with a stiffer front sway bar setting. You will also need more travel in the droop. If you run 4 in the rear try 3 (this is an example). Also if you use +1 in the front then try 0 (again an example).

The droop helps me a lot on bumpy track, but that is also because I run very little travel normally.

Hope that helps,

DJ Apolaro
__________________
Capricorn RC, Capricorn Tires, Novarossi World, Spektrum, Horizon Hobby, PROTOform, RCTarget, IGT8.
dj apolaro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2012, 06:19 AM   #1587
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 46
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by blis View Post
Not sure he means droop ("chassis upstop" preventing arms lowering) or down stop ("chassis downstop" preventing arms rising and chassis bottoming out). I never use downstops, I let the chassis plate do it for us.

So I wrote this

http://www.rctech.net/forum/10699491-post111.html
"It's how far down the arms will travel."

This
1nsane is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2012, 11:18 AM   #1588
Tech Elite
 
British Menace's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Davenport, IA
Posts: 2,336
Default

Ok. Brousing Capricorn products to see if I've missed anything I need and I found these .......
Must be brand new out

http://www.capricornrc.com/capricorn...d_product=1774

Thinking I may need to investigate these asap

BM
__________________
So enjoying building cars I sometimes forget to save some "man-time" to race them!?
British Menace is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2012, 12:35 PM   #1589
Tech Regular
 
djiewie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 440
Default

These will help you get the weightlimit. Great brand always improving.
Titanium does wear faster though.
djiewie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2012, 01:14 PM   #1590
Tech Elite
 
British Menace's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Davenport, IA
Posts: 2,336
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by djiewie View Post
These will help you get the weightlimit. Great brand always improving.
Titanium does wear faster though.
Really .... they must be using the softer grade 1 or 2 titanium. Still....... like you said. Should help get to the new 1550gto wieght limit. :-)

BM
__________________
So enjoying building cars I sometimes forget to save some "man-time" to race them!?
British Menace is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
All my reviews. romuald31 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 35 12-02-2013 08:01 AM
New Capricorn Touring Car romuald31 Nitro On-Road 90 01-25-2010 12:58 AM
V-ONE RRR WC vs. MTX-4 rmdhawaii Nitro On-Road 39 01-17-2010 01:25 PM


Tags
corn


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 10:31 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net