blis

The TM 08 versions and earlier had a slimline horn and I put the rod on the other side (outside). I am using a SAVOX low profile servo and couldnt get it to work on the inside.

speed6

Hey people what does the middle body post exactly do? Could it stiffen the chassis more? Pro and Cons.

A question that I have been thinking to ask a long time ago, if the manual says that stock setup you have to run a certain ride height with 0 front droop and 4 in the rear if you raise the ride height all round by 1mm do you have to adjust the droop +1 all round as well?

Thanks

NikoRacing

About the body post it should prevent the body to flex under the pressure of the air and help to keep the body in place when you pit fast and need to take the car with a heavy hand

For the droop..no you don't have to change the droop values when you change the ride height.

blis

If droop means UPTRAVEL of the chassis. yes.

If you raise the car's ride height by +1, in effect you must change droop to -1 so the arms lower and the car raises.

When you use your springs to raise the ride height, you are in effect using up droop (uptravel)

Sorry Niko, we may be referring to different things when we say droop.

So...

If you want the car higher, you lower the arms, then you bring the spring retainer on the shock down by the same amount. Then the car sits higher and you have not preloaded the springs.
Stiffer springs will raise the car and softer springs will lower it as well.

speed6

Great thought so! Thanks

If I need to have less Ackerman effect in order to have better offpower do I need to go with a lower number? I am running 11 shall i use the 10?

speed6

So for eg if the rear droop from 4 I have to set it to 3 if increasing ride height by 1mm?

Chickentrader

iTrader: (13)

Do you mean off-power steering?

A 10 would give you a smaller Ackermann angle. A smaller Ackermann can give you more aggressive steering, especially entering the corners. However, I have read that the front could wash out now and then if the traction is not very good. We've tried it without running a timer; and the car felt faster, but more unpredictable. It would probably be better on on high grip tracks that we don't have here in Brisbane any more.

A large Ackermann angle gives you smooth, predictable steering. You'll be able to round the corners nicely without all four tires trying to force the car in different directions.

You need to try it for yourself, to see what best for your style of racing.

Kindest regards,
Lars.

DS Motorsport

iTrader: (2)

The least amount of Ackermann will be with the 12 insert or the new 13 servosaver.
And yes less Ackermann will give the car more off power steering, if the Ackermann is set wrong at the moment.

I basically always run the 12 insert and will give the new 13 one a try as soon as weather permits it.


Yes, exactly.

blis

Speed6

Try this:

With a known set of tyre diameters, eg 62-60, you first decide at which point it's time to change tyres or reset gemotry. In our case we run from 62-60 -> 58-56. Therefore there will be a 4mm wear and only a 2mm ride height change as it's the radius that determines the height difference not the diameter of the tyre.

With the shocks and sway disconnected, take a droop measurement, typically 4R and 0F. with the car still suspended, put the shocks back on the car, bring the spring retainers down to just touching the spring with the arms in full droop.

Do this front and rear and measure your ride height.

Your ride height should be 2mm higher than your lowest desired setting based on the track conditions and the spring type you are using. A stiffer spring will allow a lower final ride height on smooth tracks, a higher final ride height with softer springs for bumpier tracks.

Depending on your desired final ride height, you may want to lower or raise the arms so, Ive measured the C02 and with RED springs and droop 4R/0F

DROOP 4R / 0F - RED SPRINGS
REAR: 7.5mm ride height @ 62mm with a final ride height of 5.5mm @ 58mm
FRONT: 6.5mm ride height @60mm with a final ride height of 4.5mm @ 56mm

These values with change depending on the springs...
Stiffer Springs = Creates less droop.
Softer Springs = Creates more droop.

speed6

Went back to stock springs and stock carbon upper tray and car became like it was on rails. Very happy finally now some fine tuning, the 12 Ackerman really made a difference.

Some advise I need to set my Futaba 4PKS in a way that with a click of a button I get the steering super smooth and when I repress it gets very aggressive.

djiewie

can someone tell me if the receiver bracket from the LAB C01 fits the NT1 radioplate?
Are the mounting holes the same distance apart??

TMF

No. Different distance.

speed6

Hey people had the 5 out of 6 championship race.

Was first for like 2/3 of the race and guess bloody what on the last 1:30 min i was leading but my tyres didn't survive much more as car was all over the track, 2nd driver was very tight to my ass and in the last 30sec i couldn't defend as car was uncontrolable due to my rear left tyre almost on plastic.

How am i bloody going to solve this issue when Xrays come in with almost 61mm in the rear and i end up always on plastic

Tyres used Contacts Fronts 37 and Rear 42

Also i have noticed that i lost quite some steering comapared to

Fronts 35 and 40 rears Contact

Thanks

Curlzz [DF1ANT]

xrays understeer so they have to use soft tyres. why are you using such a big shore split? if you ran 37/37 you would still have plenty of tyre left.

if you have no grip/traction at your track and you are using 42s on the rear you wont last long, softer tyre/higher grip = less tyre wear.

always use soft tyres unless you are racing a long final or were there is too much traction soft tyres make you traction roll.

hope this helps

blis

+1...

If you have a heap of rubber under your shell, you are wheel spinning