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Old 03-21-2004, 04:53 PM   #1
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Default Body and Cooling

OK I was driving my Nitro RS4 3 Type SS and I have a Protoform Volvo S60. I made a 2" hole in the windsheild and both side windows were cut out and also the rear windsheild (all to Roar Specs..) and it still got up to 345F WAY to hot, also my Highspeed needle was at 2 and 3/4 turns out (break in is at 3) it runs at 280 with the body off I also have a Huge motorsaver airfilter, could the filter be blocking the airflow?
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Old 03-21-2004, 05:28 PM   #2
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The filter could be blocking the air path to the cooling holes in the head. Try and get a filter that has an elbow on it so it can sit to the side and not in front of the glow plug. Also check your clutch and make sure it's clean and not slipping. A slipping clutch could cause the high temps.
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Old 03-21-2004, 10:11 PM   #3
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I'll try to angle it but it might still be in the way, I need a legal body for racing
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Old 03-21-2004, 11:23 PM   #4
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wat is a roar legal body anyways..?

a body that has only one hole? in the front windshield? how bout the holes for the glow plug igniters etc...
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Old 03-21-2004, 11:41 PM   #5
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Default Re: Body and Cooling

Quote:
Originally posted by Smoke21
OK I was driving my Nitro RS4 3 Type SS and I have a Protoform Volvo S60. I made a 2" hole in the windsheild and both side windows were cut out and also the rear windsheild (all to Roar Specs..) and it still got up to 345F WAY to hot, also my Highspeed needle was at 2 and 3/4 turns out (break in is at 3) it runs at 280 with the body off I also have a Huge motorsaver airfilter, could the filter be blocking the airflow?
your low end neddle might be to lean!
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Old 03-22-2004, 04:04 PM   #6
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well it only overheats with THAT body on my other body has the whole windsheld cut out
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Old 03-22-2004, 06:22 PM   #7
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Default Body and Cooling

Smoke21;

With all of those cut-outs and the correct mixture settings, you should NOT be overheating.

Regardless of the # of turns out, you need to open the Main needle some more.

Also, high speed full throttle passes up & down your Street can quickly overheat any Engine. Time to richen up the mixture.
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Old 03-22-2004, 06:55 PM   #8
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make sure no drag in the drive train....
make sure the brake is not on when applying throttle....
make sure the gear mash is correct....
make sure smoke is coming out of the pipe at all time....
make sure.... (help me think about other things to help him...)
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Old 03-22-2004, 08:49 PM   #9
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no drag
no brake
Mesh is perfect
Smoke at WOT
I think that I will put the low-end at factory and the high end at break in. I will try that tomarrow.
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Old 03-22-2004, 09:41 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by Smoke21
no drag
no brake
Mesh is perfect
Smoke at WOT
I think that I will put the low-end at factory and the high end at break in. I will try that tomarrow.
dont always relay on temp. alone, if the engine runs strong then leave it , i have a OS TR and it started the first 5 minutes at 250 degress and it finished the 25 minute main at 311 degress and the engine still ran the same , the engine had constant smoke out the pipe.
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Old 03-22-2004, 11:01 PM   #11
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can someone tell me wat a roar legal body is?
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Old 03-22-2004, 11:12 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally posted by Marcos.S710
dont always relay on temp. alone, if the engine runs strong then leave it
That's correct! When I tune my STS RS3 for night racing, it runs strong around 250F. With the same carb settings, if I run it in the afternoon the next day, around 12:00pm, it goes as high as 280F. But the smoke is always coming out of the pipe and the power is the same as it is at night. I might rich up the bottom to let more fule entering the engine to cool it down when corning. That works to me.
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Old 03-23-2004, 11:03 AM   #13
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Default Body and Cooling

Guys;

Remember too that an adjustment on the MAIN Needle effects the TOTAL amount of Fuel that can enter the Engine.
After any Main Needle changes, you may need to readjust the Low Speed Needle again.

I should add that in my experience with most Sport (kit supplied) Engines. It is very difficult to keep temperatures down and performance levels reasonable.

If you're racing at a club Track that does not tech the Bodies, cut a larger opening in the Windshield. Make sure you have some Holes in the Rear Window for the Air to escape too.

Last edited by popsracer; 03-23-2004 at 11:13 AM.
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Old 03-24-2004, 10:29 PM   #14
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Well A roar legal body is one that has to have a maximum of 2" diamiter hole in the windsheild both side windows and the rear windsheild may be cut out also you can have a hole for a glow igniter, the reason I want a Roar legal body is so that one day I can compete, Pops, I have it all to legal specs including the side and rear windsheild cutouts also I just can't explain the drastic temp differences, from 282.3 to 345.0 just by adding the body, on the same day doing the same driving style(up and down my neigborhood parking lot) the only thing I can think of is that the filter is blocking proper airflow from the 2" hole in the front windsheild
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Old 03-25-2004, 07:30 AM   #15
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Default Re: Body and Cooling

Quote:
Originally posted by Smoke21
OK I was driving my Nitro RS4 3 Type SS and I have a Protoform Volvo S60. I made a 2" hole in the windsheild and both side windows were cut out and also the rear windsheild (all to Roar Specs..) and it still got up to 345F WAY to hot, also my Highspeed needle was at 2 and 3/4 turns out (break in is at 3) it runs at 280 with the body off I also have a Huge motorsaver airfilter, could the filter be blocking the airflow?
what % nitro are you running?
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