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Old 01-29-2010, 10:13 AM   #31
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I run an (or just build it) Edam Spirit car. The problem i have is that the 2nd gear bell (the alu bell on the plastic gear) isent round, it wobels, any others that had this problem? I had the same problem on an Mugen MTX-4r, here the solution was to just buy an new bell. My question is if its enough to buy the bell or if the plastic gear construction with the small bearings also is an issue, maybe running the xray 2nd gear and bell house is an better option? any body tried this?

Thanks for your input!
Check the tightness on your 2 speed shoes against the steel bushing in the middle to be sure it is free but not loose. When I first built my car the shoe was too big and I just had to wear it in flat kind of like how I set the gear mesh too tight and wear it in.
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Old 01-29-2010, 02:36 PM   #32
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Check the tightness on your 2 speed shoes against the steel bushing in the middle to be sure it is free but not loose. When I first built my car the shoe was too big and I just had to wear it in flat kind of like how I set the gear mesh too tight and wear it in.
Thanks for the tip Brian. The problem i'm experiencing doesen't include the steel bushing in the 2nd gear, in my opinion. If i remove the 2nd gear shoe (inklusive the bushing) the 2nd gear still wobbel, when i measure the aluminium housing it isen't totally round.
Are you Edam racers running other types of spur gears and gearhousings then the edam stock, or is my problem easily solved by just buying a new alu housing? This to the fact that Edam has chosen to putt small ballbearings in the spurgear as well, instead of having them in the aluminium housing as seen in Xray, Mugen cars (molding plastic 100% right may be hard, witch can further increase the wobbel case i'm describing).
I hope you understand what i mean, english isent my native language
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Old 01-29-2010, 02:58 PM   #33
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Thanks for the tip Brian. The problem i'm experiencing doesen't include the steel bushing in the 2nd gear, in my opinion. If i remove the 2nd gear shoe (inklusive the bushing) the 2nd gear still wobbel, when i measure the aluminium housing it isen't totally round.
Are you Edam racers running other types of spur gears and gearhousings then the edam stock, or is my problem easily solved by just buying a new alu housing? This to the fact that Edam has chosen to putt small ballbearings in the spurgear as well, instead of having them in the aluminium housing as seen in Xray, Mugen cars (molding plastic 100% right may be hard, witch can further increase the wobbel case i'm describing).
I hope you understand what i mean, english isent my native language
That is a tough issue then, the bearing may not be seated fully or the aluminum could just be bent. Anything can happen in packaging and shipping. I wish I could help you out by just swapping parts with you. RRR stuff fits if that helps at all.
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Old 01-29-2010, 03:06 PM   #34
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Thanks for the tip Brian. The problem i'm experiencing doesen't include the steel bushing in the 2nd gear, in my opinion. If i remove the 2nd gear shoe (inklusive the bushing) the 2nd gear still wobbel, when i measure the aluminium housing it isen't totally round.
Are you Edam racers running other types of spur gears and gearhousings then the edam stock, or is my problem easily solved by just buying a new alu housing? This to the fact that Edam has chosen to putt small ballbearings in the spurgear as well, instead of having them in the aluminium housing as seen in Xray, Mugen cars (molding plastic 100% right may be hard, witch can further increase the wobbel case i'm describing).
I hope you understand what i mean, english isent my native language
a lot of people have swapped to he kyosho gearbox mainly to get a better consistency on the change. i still use the stock gear box that comes in the kit just with the upgraded pin and ball and springs, i haven't had an issue with the 2 speed bell being out of round and i have 2 of them edam will be releasing a new 2 speed bell soon i believe as brian has said in an earlier post if you change the 2 speed springs a lot problem solved. i guess to solve your immediate problem you may have purchase another 2 speed bell to get you going. hope this helps
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Old 01-29-2010, 03:19 PM   #35
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That is a tough issue then, the bearing may not be seated fully or the aluminum could just be bent. Anything can happen in packaging and shipping. I wish I could help you out by just swapping parts with you. RRR stuff fits if that helps at all.
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a lot of people have swapped to he kyosho gearbox mainly to get a better consistency on the change. i still use the stock gear box that comes in the kit just with the upgraded pin and ball and springs, i haven't had an issue with the 2 speed bell being out of round and i have 2 of them edam will be releasing a new 2 speed bell soon i believe as brian has said in an earlier post if you change the 2 speed springs a lot problem solved. i guess to solve your immediate problem you may have purchase another 2 speed bell to get you going. hope this helps
Thanks for the input! I'm not in any hurry just preparing the car for the summer season and want it 100%.
If an upgraded bell is coming out i will wait for that.
Have to say that the overall quality of the car was good and what i heard it handles very well, so i'm looking forward to test it on the track this summer!
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Old 01-29-2010, 04:27 PM   #36
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Update on the kyosho parts, you have to run the entire kyosho shaft to use the gears because it is 105mm vs 103mm among other problems. the kyosho 2 speed clutch has a larger diameter than the edams as well so the gear will not fit directly.

I just took mine apart and my edam 2nd wobbles as well, its slight but it is there. The two bearings ride on the plastic, so if the gear is wobbly then your gear is bad. If the aluminum is wobbly then play with tightening the 3 screws differently, I just squared mine up no problem.
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Old 01-30-2010, 05:14 AM   #37
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Update on the kyosho parts, you have to run the entire kyosho shaft to use the gears because it is 105mm vs 103mm among other problems. the kyosho 2 speed clutch has a larger diameter than the edams as well so the gear will not fit directly.

I just took mine apart and my edam 2nd wobbles as well, its slight but it is there. The two bearings ride on the plastic, so if the gear is wobbly then your gear is bad. If the aluminum is wobbly then play with tightening the 3 screws differently, I just squared mine up no problem.
Thanks for the update on the Kyosho parts, i didn't know that the shafts were different lengths. To upgrade entirely to an Kyosho gear solution is not an option for me, the cost is to high, and whit some updates from Edam i believe that they will sort the problem with the uneven 2nd gear engagement (haven't driven the car, so this is just what i've been told and read on forums). As for my bell, i believe that it was just bad luck to get one that wasent round, i had this problem on one of my Mugen kits as well (mentioned this in my first post). Wanted input if more Edam owners had this problem and what they did to solve it.

The car is Edams first 1/10 scale nitro tourer and as all companies they have some initial smaller problems. This is an variable that one should know when buying an new brand, that said i have full confidence in Edam and my local Edam distributor! I believe the car has great potential an whit the right marketing and input on issues directly to Edam they will become an brand that will evolve and get market shares. Now i'm a bit off topic

I would like more people to write their input on the car, for example:
what setup you run, if you tried any options, and what was the difference and so on.

I'm locking at buying titanium pivot balls, 3racing has an set for the Kyosho RRR, anyone tried these? My previous experience with 3racing and their alu parts ain't the best in terms of durability (in terms of alu parts like engine mounts that snap and so on), are these pivot balls OK quality (bend easily, snap)?

Last edited by big n; 01-31-2010 at 02:00 AM.
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Old 01-30-2010, 08:29 PM   #38
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I'm locking at buying titanium pivot balls, 3racing has an set for the Kyosho RRR, anyone tried these? My previous experience with 3racing and their alu parts ain't the best in terms of durability (in terms of alu parts like engine mounts that snap and so on), are these pivot balls OK quality (bend easily, snap)?
The car needs weight in the front, stay with the long steels for the front and run titanium in the back. 3racing is ok, they most likely wont bend in the back for a while depending on the driver.

I'll post my setup in a bit, there are still a few things to iron out and I am trying to run as many edam parts as possible and my race setup doesn't reflect that at the moment.
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Old 01-31-2010, 10:54 PM   #39
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Default front diff

Hey all i'm thinking of trying a front differential in my edam and was wondering if many people have and there thoughts and a suggested diff weight oil to start at i'm running a front locker at the moment ?

what about using the other outdrives and turning the locker into a oneway anyone had experience with this at all as well ?
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Old 02-01-2010, 05:19 AM   #40
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Hey all i'm thinking of trying a front differential in my edam and was wondering if many people have and there thoughts and a suggested diff weight oil to start at i'm running a front locker at the moment ?

what about using the other outdrives and turning the locker into a oneway anyone had experience with this at all as well ?
I haven't run my Edam yet, but did build it with an front diff. My starting point will be 50 000 oil in the front and 10 000 in the rear diff. This is what i ran in my Mugen MTX-4r and the diff is almost the same size. I have also talked about the diff wt with some Kyosho drivers and some of them use 50000 front and 10000 rear as an starting point on their rrr cars (diff size is same as edam). I have mentioned diff sizes to give some kind of reference, if you have an smaller diff, as in the Xray nt1 then you have to compensate the diff size with an thicker oil to get the same "resistance" as an larger diff with lighter oil gives you.
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Old 02-01-2010, 11:49 AM   #41
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I built mine with 120K in front and 50K in the rear...please remember though...It's particular to the track and traction. Our track in Houston can have incredible traction and thusly a thicker front diff is needed. Likewise, the track is farely large for 10th scale. The diff fluid you use can also be a driving style option. aggresive = thicker and not aggressive = thinner...so a few things to keep in mind.
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Old 02-01-2010, 11:51 AM   #42
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as i hit enter i just remembered that at Nationals this year...most of the A main guys were using minimally 120K....i know Paolo went to 200K.
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Old 02-11-2010, 08:34 PM   #43
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ready for some new option parts!!!
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Old 02-14-2010, 01:44 AM   #44
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I ran the car again today... I didn't have more issues with the clutch. But i can't seem to get the 2 speed to change at all. I backed screws in the 2 speed to no avail, my engine will also flame out at about 2 minutes.

It's got me beat, i have a feeling engine issues are due to 2 speed!

I am thinking i might have to do the Kyosho conversion everyone is talking about. Do i need to use the kyosho pullies and clutchbell to do this?

Thank
Andrew
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Old 02-14-2010, 03:25 AM   #45
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I ran the car again today... I didn't have more issues with the clutch. But i can't seem to get the 2 speed to change at all. I backed screws in the 2 speed to no avail, my engine will also flame out at about 2 minutes.

It's got me beat, i have a feeling engine issues are due to 2 speed!

I am thinking i might have to do the Kyosho conversion everyone is talking about. Do i need to use the kyosho pullies and clutchbell to do this?

Thank
Andrew
Hi Andrew, did you clean off the coating anodizing that it on the 2 speed housing at all ? i did have issues with my 2 speed at the start but after making slight adjustments after a few practice runs works perfect know. try to persist with it because i beleive the kyosho change is $$$$. just make sure the centre is nice and secure and then adjust the 2 outer screws so the screw head is level with the cut out where it slots in then make small adjustments from there on the track. did you get all the upgrade parts for the 2 speed i know the locally purchased ones come standard with them.

Cheers Michael
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