MT 12 Engine info.
Hey everyone, For those who remember me I have come back from a long break. For those who don't, I am recently just getting back into the hobby and I have a couple of quesitons.
I recently purchased the Nitro TC3 and would like recommendations for most useful hop-ups and best tuning practices for this car. I just bought the MT 12 engine (Mugen) and would like some feedback on this motor. Mainly is it reliable and is it powerful? On a side note, I recently stripped a screw on the underbelly of my RS4 2. What would be the best method to get that little sucker out? I appreciate any info. Thanks Everyone. Ron. |
Re: MT 12 Engine info.
Originally posted by ProRacer03 Hey everyone, For those who remember me I have come back from a long break. For those who don't, I am recently just getting back into the hobby and I have a couple of quesitons. I recently purchased the Nitro TC3 and would like recommendations for most useful hop-ups and best tuning practices for this car. I just bought the MT 12 engine (Mugen) and would like some feedback on this motor. Mainly is it reliable and is it powerful? On a side note, I recently stripped a screw on the underbelly of my RS4 2. What would be the best method to get that little sucker out? I appreciate any info. Thanks Everyone. Ron. |
The MT. 12 Rocks! It is a great motor easy to tune also.
It will be more than enough power for now:sneaky: |
As for the stripped screw. Take a small drill bit and drill the center out of the screw. The head of the screw should come off. If it doesnt you may need a bigger drill bit. Then once the screw head is off, just remove the part and take a pair of plyers or something like that and remove the screw.
The MT 12 is a great engine.:cool: |
Originally posted by BallPy As for the stripped screw. Take a small drill bit and drill the center out of the screw. The head of the screw should come off. If it doesnt you may need a bigger drill bit. Then once the screw head is off, just remove the part and take a pair of plyers or something like that and remove the screw. The MT 12 is a great engine.:cool: |
Re: MT 12 Engine info.
Originally posted by ProRacer03 I recently purchased the Nitro TC3 and would like recommendations for most useful hop-ups and best tuning practices for this car. |
The only problem with using a cutting wheel is if the screw is still flush with the chassis or if it is counter sunk then you will probably cut your chassis while you are putting your cut in the screw head. I guess it all depends on your personal preference.
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Back to the Mugen MT12 for a moment........ :) I purchased this motor (slide carb version) for use in a NTC3 as well and have a question about the size of the screw used in the throttle ball attached to the slide carb. I need to turn the ball to a different position than what comes standard and I have no idea what size wrench fits in this allen screw. I'm assuming this is the screw I should use to perform this task? I also need to know what size nutdriver should be used to rotate the carb completely. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated :) Thanks!!
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Hmmm......this thread doesn't seem to get many responses. Another question for anybody who might be reading this.........
Can you make a turbo version of the MT-12 and turn it into a standard version? If so, how would you do it? I think the engine I purchased at my LHS is a turbo version even though it doesn't mention it anywhere on the box. Seems like the glow plug that came with the motor was quite a bit thicker than a standard MC-59 and the MC-59 won't even thread into the top of the head. A friend of mine mentioned that I could just replace the section where the glow plug mounts with a standard engine version and I should be fine. Anybody know if this is true or are there other things I need to watch out for? |
Originally posted by Schuie Driver Hmmm......this thread doesn't seem to get many responses. Another question for anybody who might be reading this......... Can you make a turbo version of the MT-12 and turn it into a standard version? If so, how would you do it? I think the engine I purchased at my LHS is a turbo version even though it doesn't mention it anywhere on the box. Seems like the glow plug that came with the motor was quite a bit thicker than a standard MC-59 and the MC-59 won't even thread into the top of the head. A friend of mine mentioned that I could just replace the section where the glow plug mounts with a standard engine version and I should be fine. Anybody know if this is true or are there other things I need to watch out for? |
Thanks Manticore.....is the combustion chamber the piece located directly under the engine head that holds the glow plug?
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Originally posted by Schuie Driver Thanks Manticore.....is the combustion chamber the piece located directly under the engine head that holds the glow plug? |
Originally posted by Schuie Driver Back to the Mugen MT12 for a moment........ :) I purchased this motor (slide carb version) for use in a NTC3 as well and have a question about the size of the screw used in the throttle ball attached to the slide carb. I need to turn the ball to a different position than what comes standard and I have no idea what size wrench fits in this allen screw. I'm assuming this is the screw I should use to perform this task? I also need to know what size nutdriver should be used to rotate the carb completely. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated :) Thanks!! |
Thanks for the help guys. One other question if you don't mind.......
In the exploded view of the engine Mugen points out that there are two different head gaskets, a .1mm and a .3mm. Are you supposed to use one size with a turbo plug and another size with a standard? Just want to make sure I'm using the correct one now that I've purchased the new head button for a standard plug. Would hate to have my piston slam up into my plugs. |
.3mm is standard and what comes on both engines stock it is alumunium and .010 thousanths thick. .1MM is copper and is what you would use to make head adjustments with it is .003 thousanths thick.
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Originally posted by Motorman .3mm is standard and what comes on both engines stock it is alumunium and .010 thousanths thick. .1MM is copper and is what you would use to make head adjustments with it is .003 thousanths thick. |
Thanks Motorman! Sounds like I'm all ready to fire the engine up then.......
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What i heard from my Lhs was that if you purchase a turbo head.. it doesnt really make it a Turbo because you still need the crank to be Turbo.. i dont know about that but you might want to ask Motorman for that advice..
Motorman you can take this............. |
well ya you kinda have a half turbo but each component adds its contribution. Personally the crank is more important than the head as (and here we go this is just my opinion) Turbo plugs on a 12 engine provide a dubious contribution to power at best.
15's and 21's are another story you can get by with stock head clerance on an MT (.018 thousanths) on 30 percent nitro yet above 85 degrees I recommend adding .003 (thats thousanths not MM) to get .021 MM head clearence. This will aid engine cooling. PS always use a alumunium head shim against the liner if you can get one. If you have to add additional copper shims put them between the alumunium shim and the head button. Keep the alumunium one against the liner. This goes for 21's too |
Originally posted by Motorman .................................................. ....................PS always use a alumunium head shim against the liner if you can get one. If you have to add additional copper shims put them between the alumunium shim and the head button. Keep the alumunium one against the liner. This goes for 21's too Why? Don't get mad. Not a challenge, just a question for my own education. Thank you Dennis. Note: [Have to explain everytime I post now since everyone seems to take what I post wrong] |
Originally posted by Motorman well ya you kinda have a half turbo but each component adds its contribution. Personally the crank is more important than the head as (and here we go this is just my opinion) Turbo plugs on a 12 engine provide a dubious contribution to power at best. 15's and 21's are another story you can get by with stock head clerance on an MT (.018 thousanths) on 30 percent nitro yet above 85 degrees I recommend adding .003 (thats thousanths not MM) to get .021 MM head clearence. This will aid engine cooling. PS always use a alumunium head shim against the liner if you can get one. If you have to add additional copper shims put them between the alumunium shim and the head button. Keep the alumunium one against the liner. This goes for 21's too |
Adding more power to MT12
Using a turbo head will add a lil bit of power. Try buying a turbo serpent crankshaft it will add a lot of power more torque and your engine will last for 8 to 9 mins running without refueling.
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Re: Adding more power to MT12
Originally posted by SioKoy ........... your engine will last for 8 to 9 mins running without refueling. :weird: I was always under the impression that by "porting or modifying" you are makeing the engine more fuel hungry.... meaning it will drink more? Is this true?? Or by doing such mods are you creating a better air/fuel mix? :confused: Rich :confused: |
Re: Re: Adding more power to MT12
Originally posted by Hard Jokur :weird: I was always under the impression that by "porting or modifying" you are makeing the engine more fuel hungry.... meaning it will drink more? Is this true?? Or by doing such mods are you creating a better air/fuel mix? :confused: Rich :confused: |
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how to noe whether the MT12 have a slide or rotary carb???
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wat is the difference between a non turbo and a turbo MT12????
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Could anybody give me the standard break in needle settings for the MT12? I don't seem to see them anywhere in the manual.
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Check the Tech Tips section on Paris Racing's webpage. It's a Novarossi based engine, so use those instructions.
http://www.parisracing.com/tipspage.htm |
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