Originally posted by Motorman .3mm is standard and what comes on both engines stock it is alumunium and .010 thousanths thick. .1MM is copper and is what you would use to make head adjustments with it is .003 thousanths thick. |
Thanks Motorman! Sounds like I'm all ready to fire the engine up then.......
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What i heard from my Lhs was that if you purchase a turbo head.. it doesnt really make it a Turbo because you still need the crank to be Turbo.. i dont know about that but you might want to ask Motorman for that advice..
Motorman you can take this............. |
well ya you kinda have a half turbo but each component adds its contribution. Personally the crank is more important than the head as (and here we go this is just my opinion) Turbo plugs on a 12 engine provide a dubious contribution to power at best.
15's and 21's are another story you can get by with stock head clerance on an MT (.018 thousanths) on 30 percent nitro yet above 85 degrees I recommend adding .003 (thats thousanths not MM) to get .021 MM head clearence. This will aid engine cooling. PS always use a alumunium head shim against the liner if you can get one. If you have to add additional copper shims put them between the alumunium shim and the head button. Keep the alumunium one against the liner. This goes for 21's too |
Originally posted by Motorman .................................................. ....................PS always use a alumunium head shim against the liner if you can get one. If you have to add additional copper shims put them between the alumunium shim and the head button. Keep the alumunium one against the liner. This goes for 21's too Why? Don't get mad. Not a challenge, just a question for my own education. Thank you Dennis. Note: [Have to explain everytime I post now since everyone seems to take what I post wrong] |
Originally posted by Motorman well ya you kinda have a half turbo but each component adds its contribution. Personally the crank is more important than the head as (and here we go this is just my opinion) Turbo plugs on a 12 engine provide a dubious contribution to power at best. 15's and 21's are another story you can get by with stock head clerance on an MT (.018 thousanths) on 30 percent nitro yet above 85 degrees I recommend adding .003 (thats thousanths not MM) to get .021 MM head clearence. This will aid engine cooling. PS always use a alumunium head shim against the liner if you can get one. If you have to add additional copper shims put them between the alumunium shim and the head button. Keep the alumunium one against the liner. This goes for 21's too |
Adding more power to MT12
Using a turbo head will add a lil bit of power. Try buying a turbo serpent crankshaft it will add a lot of power more torque and your engine will last for 8 to 9 mins running without refueling.
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Re: Adding more power to MT12
Originally posted by SioKoy ........... your engine will last for 8 to 9 mins running without refueling. :weird: I was always under the impression that by "porting or modifying" you are makeing the engine more fuel hungry.... meaning it will drink more? Is this true?? Or by doing such mods are you creating a better air/fuel mix? :confused: Rich :confused: |
Re: Re: Adding more power to MT12
Originally posted by Hard Jokur :weird: I was always under the impression that by "porting or modifying" you are makeing the engine more fuel hungry.... meaning it will drink more? Is this true?? Or by doing such mods are you creating a better air/fuel mix? :confused: Rich :confused: |
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how to noe whether the MT12 have a slide or rotary carb???
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wat is the difference between a non turbo and a turbo MT12????
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Could anybody give me the standard break in needle settings for the MT12? I don't seem to see them anywhere in the manual.
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Check the Tech Tips section on Paris Racing's webpage. It's a Novarossi based engine, so use those instructions.
http://www.parisracing.com/tipspage.htm |
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