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Old 01-04-2010, 02:19 PM   #1
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Default 1/10th CVD pins



I was watching Michael Salven's Pro Tips videos and he talked about checking wear on his 1/8th car CVD pins. Are you guys checking your pins on your 1/10th sedan? I don't think I've seen this discussed here before. Are there any other CVD join issues that I need to be aware of? Are CVD joint issues the main reason why some of the pros use dog bones??

He also talked about using oil instead of grease on his joints. What type of oil is he talking about? I've been using that Kyosho white grease.

I need to completely tear down my cars and rebuild them, so if I need to buy new pins, I might as well do it now.

Thanks!
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Old 01-04-2010, 02:51 PM   #2
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I have never had a pin wear (or infact break).

I rebuild all 4 CVD's after each race day, using plenty of grease (Hudy Graphite, Mugen Black, etc). I did try oil, but it makes too much mess.

Note, there is more stress/strain on pins with 1/8th scales due to the power outputs, as well as the diff types run (lockers)
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Old 01-04-2010, 02:56 PM   #3
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This has been talked in 733 forum recently, and I have some info about the subject.

The pin which connects shaft to the wheel axle wears pretty quick, and needs to be changed often. It also has to have square edges at its ends, to eliminate play. Salven mentioned there that he doesnt use the little setscrew, and it makes sense because there is no need for a screw which tightens and stresses the system.

Pins on the diff outdrive part wears too, and it can be changed with hudy pin replacement tool. Be careful that if you use the car with worn pins, as the time passes the outdrive will wear as well because of the excessive play.

On xray nt1, there is a problem that when you use solid axle front, you can break the front universal shafts(mine broke) So some of the people just use dogbones at front.

Using dogbones/universals at rear is just a personal preference for me. Some people say dogbones have more roll, so more traction, but I dont think it will make a big difference.

The oil Salven uses is Serpent/Exceed Premium Lube I think. It can be used in whole transmission, sometimes one little drop to the pulley can lighten the transmission a lot. I use Tamiya VG Joint Cup grease, which is a very thick one. It protects the pins relatively good, but attracts a lot of dirt. Another option can be Hudy Graphite Grease.

Thats all I know.
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Old 01-04-2010, 03:00 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by rmdhawaii View Post


I was watching Michael Salven's Pro Tips videos and he talked about checking wear on his 1/8th car CVD pins. Are you guys checking your pins on your 1/10th sedan? I don't think I've seen this discussed here before. Are there any other CVD join issues that I need to be aware of? Are CVD joint issues the main reason why some of the pros use dog bones??

He also talked about using oil instead of grease on his joints. What type of oil is he talking about? I've been using that Kyosho white grease.

I need to completely tear down my cars and rebuild them, so if I need to buy new pins, I might as well do it now.

Thanks!
After a while my pins are starting to get flat spots on them aswell which creates slop, i run a spool up front so that might explain why me fronts are worse than my rears.

As Novarossi said don't use oil or a thin grease in your joints it makes a big mess and actually atracts more dirt than what it's worth i reckon. Kyosho white grease is good. I ran out so i've just been putting thrust bearing grease in them for now
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Old 01-04-2010, 03:02 PM   #5
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I replace the small pin about 2-3 times a year but i don't run the car very often. Lets say I replace them every two races.
For lubing I use the Hudy graphite grease, tried a lot of different greases and oils(including the serpent Premium lube Salven uses). The oil causes dirt to enter the wheelbearings when you re oil the driveshafts in between heats.
The Hudy grease is very thin and sticks to the parts.
Furthermore I would also recommend to not use the grub screw in the cvd.
Btw I use cvd's all around, it gives you the smallest possible play in the drivetrain so a very responsive car, a thing I really like.
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Old 01-04-2010, 04:45 PM   #6
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I also use a white lithium grease in both sides of the cvd's, you will find it a little messy but your cvd's and outdrive shafts will last you a long time.

the kyosho out drives come with 4 holes so when you have 2 that have some wear you rotate it 1/4 turn to the new holes and when i've rotated them you will notice the pins have little wear, I can only speak of the kyosho ones
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Old 01-04-2010, 06:03 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by freestyles View Post
After a while my pins are starting to get flat spots on them aswell which creates slop, i run a spool up front so that might explain why me fronts are worse than my rears.

As Novarossi said don't use oil or a thin grease in your joints it makes a big mess and actually atracts more dirt than what it's worth i reckon. Kyosho white grease is good. I ran out so i've just been putting thrust bearing grease in them for now
BP, reason for your pin to have flat spot due to grab screw, you don't need to use grab screw to secure the pin on ur NT1 as inner wheel bearing will wrap around it.
I never use grab screw on CVD for NT1, MTX-4 and now on RRR.
You need to make sure use a drop or 2 of thin oil in to Drive Shaft Coupling, it will reduce wear between Drive Shaft Coupling and CVD shaft like what M Salven said.
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Old 01-04-2010, 07:03 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by jca2000au View Post
BP, reason for your pin to have flat spot due to grab screw, you don't need to use grab screw to secure the pin on ur NT1 as inner wheel bearing will wrap around it.
I never use grab screw on CVD for NT1, MTX-4 and now on RRR.
You need to make sure use a drop or 2 of thin oil in to Drive Shaft Coupling, it will reduce wear between Drive Shaft Coupling and CVD shaft like what M Salven said.
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Old 01-05-2010, 03:48 AM   #9
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Thanks Jay i'll give it a go. Sorry i got confused i thought he was talking about the pin at the ball end (the end that goes into the diff outdrive)

EDIT: It would be good to see vids like those but with a NT1 or something similar, anyone know of any?
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