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Old 03-08-2004, 11:48 PM   #1
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Need Help! Bottoming out with too much acc. (V-one S)

Well i figured the V-one S Thread is dead so, im just starting a new thread, i think in general anybody with a bit more experience than myeslf should be able to answer my questoins...

I have a Kyosho V-one S and I am having a couple problems anyway the first is that my exhaust header is constantly vibrating itself loose! For some reason not even loktite can save me anyway if you have any ideas to what could be causing this, as well as a way to hopefully fix my problem it would be greatly appreciated.

Secondly, I dont know if this could be a case of my loose exhaust header, but if given too much throttle too much at once, my car will just bottom out... sounds like it is really rich, when in fact it isnt ( Top End - 1 1/2 Turns out... low end - unknown) I have never had any problems like this before, therefore I am looking to those who may have been as unfortunate as me.

Thankyou in advance and if all else fails, then when I get the time I think I will just take it into the LHS

Cheers
DB

P.S: While i'm at it i though i would just add a quicky of my new 200sx (Silvia) GT body
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Old 03-09-2004, 06:50 AM   #2
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You can either use longer screws and put lock nuts on the end or get another manifold. Because it sounds like it is stripped to the point that the screw can not get a grip.

Bottoming out, does depend on your low end needle settings. You haven't mentioned what type of engine you are using.

Plus if you're racing, why not get a rear exhaust engine. That'll take care of both problems.

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Old 03-09-2004, 05:04 PM   #3
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I agree if you use longer screws and put nylock nuts on the end with lock tite that will solve your loosening problem. As far as bottoming out and your needle settinge, they can be related but most likely sounds of a setup issue. You may not be running stiff enough springs, or maybe not a heavy enough shock oil. Your shocks may also be leaking and not have enough pressure in them anymore. There are a multitude of issues that sould be causing that.
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Old 03-09-2004, 05:19 PM   #4
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I think he means bottoming as in loading up and engine dies.
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Old 03-09-2004, 07:23 PM   #5
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in reply to the loose header- alot of ppl that run the standard kit header have this prob which can be rectified by tapping out the holes to 3mm so u can use cap head bolts rather than the phillips heads
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Old 03-09-2004, 09:36 PM   #6
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Default Thanks...

Thanks dangles, do you know exactly how they do this, if you could, would you be able to link me to or show me a picture of it.

Also to the others im not so sure but trying to fit a nut to the end would be a great deal of difficulty as where the manifold curves around to meet the exhaust, it doesnt leave what i think would be enough room to squize a nut into...

Regarding my engine, it is just the Stock GS-15 R w/ Blue Upgrade Heatsink (dunno if that is any extra help) and also other changes are just the 2-speed... everything else is just cosmetic so.

Thanks again

DB

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Old 03-09-2004, 10:03 PM   #7
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buy some 3mm cap head exhaust bolts then ask at ur local hobby shop if they can get a tap for that size. probly from ur local hardware then just tap the holes- once this is done u will be able to tighten the header easier and tighter then before. also use a good loctite- not that blue tamiya stuff hope this helps. also included is a site for v1s/2 setup sheets to record ur setups(when they work)
http://www.kyosho.co.jp/setting/index-e.html


hope this helps and enjoy ur racing
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Old 03-10-2004, 12:27 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally posted by Aggdaddy
I think he means bottoming as in loading up and engine dies.
Oops my bad...
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Old 03-11-2004, 08:11 AM   #9
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Check your plug -

try a hotter plug, sound like you are just putting it out. also if that doesnt fix it you may be too rich low end.

I had the same problem with my Novamega
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Old 03-11-2004, 08:32 AM   #10
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Hey uB3r_V-one-S... I agree with the other guys, including Bounty Hunter, but maybe not in this thread...

FORD... HMMM, Here in Sunny South Africa, that stands for either Found on Rubbish Dump or First on rubbish dump... But then here most fords are the old ford cortina, in baby blue or red with deep dish chromed mags with chromed tappits you can hear tap tap tapping... and an exhaust pipe big enough to see the chromed pistons.... I mean no offense, I am only playing, I dont think your fords are african built, they are better over their....
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Old 03-11-2004, 04:29 PM   #11
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Smile NO dead threads fro V1Ss

I still love my modified V1S. It's retired and it's RR brother is my current racer, with an Evo mod coming.

You'll get a lot more if you consider dropping in another engine. The stock one is fine to bash and learn on, but not a racer's choice.

On your header, tap out the holes and use nuts or locking nuts with or without loctite. Red colored loctite is usually the best, but I hope you don't plan on taking them off anytime soon!

The two speed, especialy with an OS CV-R SE, was engaging way too early. I tightened it up and off she went. Man, what power with a $89USD engine over the stock engine!

V1s in general, like 3degrees in on the rear and at least 2degrees out on the front. Caster 6 or 8 degrees. Toe 1 degree in. Height at 4mm with 40wt in the front/60wt in the rear shocks, stock pistons and balck springs all around or silver fronts with gold rears. I also ran medium sway bars on the front and rear.

The blue head will definately keep her running cooler, meaning you can run it leaner. Traxxas fuels have a lot of oil, since their engines run a bit hotter than any othe manufacturer out there. With >1 turn out, I was still blowing smoke [unburned oil out of the pipe]!

If you add the RR wide CVDs, on the rear you'll see a vast improvement on cornering, translating into earlier/faster acceleration after the turn's apex.

Here's mine without a shell.

Good luck!

^5s all around.
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