tjfmuk

Hello, so Im very new to this game, and I am asking for help. I have a kyosho V One RRR and have it all set up and the engine broken in. But when I apply some power the clutch does not engage and the wheels do not move. I have took it appart and loosend the spring off but still not luck. Any help would be great.

Cheers, tjfm

YmeBP

iTrader: (32)

can you take a photo of the clutch assembly?

Was the kit new or did you buy it used?

tjfmuk

Cheers for the rapid reply. I bought it new as a kit.
The clutch is basically a centax type clutch. Iwill post a pic asap if that would help

YmeBP

iTrader: (32)

O.k. I'm pretty new as well and have has similar issues. Start with instruction book, and get a set of calipers to check your tolerances.

Take your clutch apart, place the weights the plate and the shoe the retaining ring, the spring and the spring retaining nut back on the motor shaft. Check your manual to see what the gap between the top of the threads and the clutch spring retention nut is. Measure this with the little pole thing in your calipers.

Put your clutch bell on the shaft with both bearings in it, put the car on it's side and press down on the bell and turn it, it should turn freely. Add shims to the motor shaft and repeat until the clutch bell spins freely under pressure from your hand.

Put your thrust bearing in the top of the clutch bell, then put a couple of shims in there as well. Check your manual for the amount of endplay you should have and shim appropriately.

Your clutch should be close at this point. and you can fine tune it from there.

rcabj

iTrader: (1)

assuming your clutch setup is correct, i believe your motor still running rich and that is why your clutch won't enganged. if this is the case apply more throttle and close the main needle 5 minutes at a time until it engages...good luck

LAM3SAUCE

yeah i had this same exact problem but still wasnt able to fix it!

Speedypeterb

iTrader: (16)

you mention your motor is broken in did you use a break in bench or did you just run a couple of tanks on the car, usually it takes three or four fuel bottles before your engine is ready for race mode. where are you located because you can pm me and i'll be glad to call you and go step by step to build your clutch correctly and you will better understand it. you also need digital calipers to work on the clutch. let me know

jca2000au

iTrader: (9)

Clutch Spring could be too tight for new engine,

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

It might be your clutch gap. If the clutch gap isn't set properly, the clutch won't engage properly. That was my problem the first time I built the car.

The following instructions apply to the V-ONE RRR WC edition (Kit 31258B) [ see attachment ] but I compared them to the V-ONE RRR Evo2 manual (Kit 31263) and the part numbers are the same for steps 44 and 45. Compare these instructions with your own. It would be best if you can find someone else that is running a RRR to help you out.

From the NitroKB.com archives:

Clutch gap is the amount the clutch shoe (step 42, part 133) moves before it touches the clutch bell (step 43, part 76). Clutch gap is measured with all clutch parts assembled EXCEPT the innermost ball bearing (step 43, part 178).

Be sure to adjust the clutch gap first so it is at 0.5mm (as per the left-side inset box) [ Edit: 0.3 mm in the Evo2 manual! Step 45, Step A diagram ] ; however, the instructions don't tell you how to do this. To adjust clutch gap, add shims as appropriate to the thrustbearing collar (step 43, part 143).

After you have adjusted the clutch gap, adjust the endplay. Use the Kyosho Shim Set (5x7) (Kyosho part #96643). ALL clutch parts should be assembled when measuring endplay. Add the washers onto the end of the crankshaft, right after the flywheel nut (step 42, part 137) and before the innermost ballbearing (step 43, part 178). Keep adding washers – a bit at a time – then reassemble the entire clutch assembly each time, and check how much the clutchbell moves along the crankshaft. Keep doing until the clutchbell moves only 0.1mm (just a hint of movement) on the crankshaft. After this, you should be done.

Glenn Cauley says it best, “You want to have only a very small amount of endplay; just a barely noticeable hint of movement (0.10mm) is good, but don't remove ALL endplay or the clutch will drag.” As per the Serpent 710 FAQ, when you spin the clutch bell facing up or facing down, it should spin for at least 5 seconds.

Special thanks goes out to Glenn Cauley, for reviewing and editing these instructions.