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Old 12-05-2009, 06:53 AM   #16
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For clubracing a NT1R is perfect, a NT1 Ec is overkill unless you lack some driving skills.

I'll bet I can get this car on the podium during a clubrace just as easy as with my tricked out NT1.
put in a kick arse engine some kick arse servos along with hot setup and I bet you would make the podium too
would interesting to find out the weight on the NT1R
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Old 12-05-2009, 01:45 PM   #17
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For clubracing a NT1R is perfect, a NT1 Ec is overkill unless you lack some driving skills.

I'll bet I can get this car on the podium during a clubrace just as easy as with my tricked out NT1.
I'm not being rude but how will a NT1 EC be better for those that lack some driving skills? Because i fall into that category and now i want one
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Old 12-05-2009, 06:00 PM   #18
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I'm not being rude but how will a NT1 EC be better for those that lack some driving skills? Because i fall into that category and now i want one
Well simply because it has all the options: lighter drivetrain, better shocks etc.
So the EC version will perform slightly better.

Because of the options the car will accelerate slightly faster and will have a bit more cornerspeed.
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Old 12-05-2009, 08:21 PM   #19
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Well simply because it has all the options: lighter drivetrain, better shocks etc.
So the EC version will perform slightly better.

Because of the options the car will accelerate slightly faster and will have a bit more cornerspeed.
there you go Styles....... more accleration, more corner speed....... = bigger crashes
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Old 12-06-2009, 12:40 AM   #20
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there you go Styles....... more accleration, more corner speed....... = bigger crashes
Your right, my NT1 atm is bullet proof, even for my driving

Suits me to a tea..............For now
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Old 12-11-2009, 08:00 AM   #21
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Does anyone know when this car will hit the market? Also, what will the street price be on it? It is a shame that I work just around the corner from the RC America warehouse (literally a 5 minute walk from my office) and can't get this info from them.
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Old 12-20-2009, 06:51 PM   #22
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Wow for the price being under $350 I'll definitely look into it.
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Old 12-21-2009, 11:31 AM   #23
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Your right, my NT1 atm is bullet proof, even for my driving

Suits me to a tea..............For now
Lets be realistic... If you want to go for cheaper, then go slower!

Seems everyone trying to make 1:10 Pro touring car chassis' cheaper. Anyone out there that's fully equipped for TC will know that there's more investment of $$$ in the lube tray and tool kit keeping a TC going than there is deciding what chassis is best and most affordable.

I'm with you freestyles, resilience is what is needed. Did you see BOTH my rear flying wings on my Magic let go under load on the back straight at the nats? We're trying to lay down 40K rpm onto a no slip surface and then engage a second gear clutch at full torque. The truth behind 1:10 TC racing being expensive by default is very apparent.

Lets not kid the newcomers, or clearly state that these budget chassis options are good for < 1hp engines such as Hyper12, TG, Black Nova's and alike. The electric scene is no different with MOD motors reaching 60K rpm either.
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Old 12-21-2009, 01:12 PM   #24
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Lets be realistic... If you want to go for cheaper, then go slower!

Seems everyone trying to make 1:10 Pro touring car chassis' cheaper. Anyone out there that's fully equipped for TC will know that there's more investment of $$$ in the lube tray and tool kit keeping a TC going than there is deciding what chassis is best and most affordable.

I'm with you freestyles, resilience is what is needed. Did you see BOTH my rear flying wings on my Magic let go under load on the back straight at the nats? We're trying to lay down 40K rpm onto a no slip surface and then engage a second gear clutch at full torque. The truth behind 1:10 TC racing being expensive by default is very apparent.

Lets not kid the newcomers, or clearly state that these budget chassis options are good for < 1hp engines such as Hyper12, TG, Black Nova's and alike. The electric scene is no different with MOD motors reaching 60K rpm either.
The NT1R is not a cheap knock-off as you are trying to make it out to be. I talked to one of the RC America reps the other day and was told that the only difference between the 1 and 1R is the one-piece engine mount, composite upper deck, and dogbones instead of CVDs. Performance will not suffer due to these, as you say, "cheaper" parts. And, it is easily upgradable to NT1 status.

You don't have to have the latest/greatest with all the hop-ups to be competitive. I run a MTX4 (not 4R) that is almost bone stock (just upgraded to front CVDs). Locally, I hang in there and sometimes beat the guys with the "cars with all the goodies". It is not just about what you have on the cars as much as how well do you have it set up for the race conditions at hand and how good are you driving skills.

The NT1R is a good alternative for those that can't afford the almost $500 NT1. They could get started with a good quality car (better than the NTC3) and upgrade if they want as their budget sees fit. This is how you get more people to consider the hobby/sport that don't have deep pockets like many that are already invested in the hobby/sport.
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Old 12-21-2009, 02:02 PM   #25
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+1 The NT1R is basically the original NT1 with some of the graphite replaced with Composite material... It's a good deal if you ask me
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Old 12-21-2009, 03:06 PM   #26
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You will be better of with a brand new NT1R as with a second hand NT1, so I think it's a very good car. It still has the best drivetrain and geometry currently available in 1:10 TC.
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Old 12-21-2009, 06:53 PM   #27
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The NT1R is not a cheap knock-off as you are trying to make it out to be. I talked to one of the RC America reps the other day and was told that the only difference between the 1 and 1R is the one-piece engine mount, composite upper deck, and dogbones instead of CVDs. Performance will not suffer due to these, as you say, "cheaper" parts. And, it is easily upgradable to NT1 status.

You don't have to have the latest/greatest with all the hop-ups to be competitive. I run a MTX4 (not 4R) that is almost bone stock (just upgraded to front CVDs). Locally, I hang in there and sometimes beat the guys with the "cars with all the goodies". It is not just about what you have on the cars as much as how well do you have it set up for the race conditions at hand and how good are you driving skills.

The NT1R is a good alternative for those that can't afford the almost $500 NT1. They could get started with a good quality car (better than the NTC3) and upgrade if they want as their budget sees fit. This is how you get more people to consider the hobby/sport that don't have deep pockets like many that are already invested in the hobby/sport.
The components u listed wont degrade the resilience, if that is truly all it is. Can you admit that the lube tray and tools for onroad racing costs more than a NT1? I dont care for arguments but care more for the truth behind the realities of where we "waste" our hard earned dollars.

RC onroad is an experience off track as it is on, hours of maintenance, cleaning, checking, adjusting, lube and setup. Amortize this aspect into the overall costs and it might make sense to outsiders why we spend so much enjoying RC, working on a beautifully produced model with the best metallurgy and precision engineering.

Anyway.. I really hope it's as good as the "Real McCoy" minus some carbon fibre bling and would recommend it to anyone if this is the case and I really hope it is. Team Magics JS/JR versions do not fall into this category.

As for Mugens, I drool with envy when I see them cartwheeling down a straight, flip right side up and drive off. They are race bred and my first choice when ppl ask what to buy at the higher end so again no argument.

Once the love is lost for a car.. it's over!
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Old 12-22-2009, 12:50 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by JLock View Post
The NT1R is not a cheap knock-off as you are trying to make it out to be. I talked to one of the RC America reps the other day and was told that the only difference between the 1 and 1R is the one-piece engine mount, composite upper deck, and dogbones instead of CVDs. Performance will not suffer due to these, as you say, "cheaper" parts. And, it is easily upgradable to NT1 status.

You don't have to have the latest/greatest with all the hop-ups to be competitive. I run a MTX4 (not 4R) that is almost bone stock (just upgraded to front CVDs). Locally, I hang in there and sometimes beat the guys with the "cars with all the goodies". It is not just about what you have on the cars as much as how well do you have it set up for the race conditions at hand and how good are you driving skills.

The NT1R is a good alternative for those that can't afford the almost $500 NT1. They could get started with a good quality car (better than the NTC3) and upgrade if they want as their budget sees fit. This is how you get more people to consider the hobby/sport that don't have deep pockets like many that are already invested in the hobby/sport.

I too ran a bone stock MTX4 with just the thicker rear shock tower, Upgraded Front and rear CVDs, and one piece engine mount. Other than that I was quite satisfied with the cars performance. With the OS .12TZ (Carlson Modified) I was able to keep up and pass some of the 8th onroads in the turns with a tight drivers line, but on the straights the JP/Novarossi/RB tourers and 8ths just blew past me in 2nd gear. If the car comes stock with all the alloy and lightweight parts that's nice. However if optional I wouldn't by it. That's why I left the R40 years ago being it was just a money pit and the Hara kits were overpriced.
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Old 01-22-2010, 10:13 AM   #29
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RC Mushroom has this car currently listed at a US dollar price of $345.
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Old 01-22-2010, 11:58 AM   #30
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RC Mushroom has this car currently listed at a US dollar price of $345.
Well, Xray mentioned a streetprice of 240 euro ex VAT, calculated that is 345 dollar.
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