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Old 11-11-2009, 11:22 PM   #1
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Default Nitro RS4 RTR 3 Evo tips

I just traded my old F103GT for my friends Nitro RS4 3 Evo.
I just wanted to ask for any tips that can help me out. One problem my friend always had was that the engine kept on turning off when he slowed down. What can I do to prevent this? Thanks!
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Old 11-11-2009, 11:58 PM   #2
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ok, first thing before i forget is take the roto start plate off and the back plate to the engine and lock tite them or they will work loose and destroy your one way bearing.
Now, the stock clutch shoes and springs arent that great. I would replace those and also check the clutch bell bearings. I had a similar problem and replaced the shoes and stiffer springs and that took care of it.
It also could be improper tuning or a glow plug going. In the coler weather you need to run a hotter plug. My first thing to chk out would be the clutch shoes and springs. This is a nice fast car though you will like it!! A ton of hop ups avail for it too. Hope this helps
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Old 11-12-2009, 06:28 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishymamba View Post
I just traded my old F103GT for my friends Nitro RS4 3 Evo.
I just wanted to ask for any tips that can help me out. One problem my friend always had was that the engine kept on turning off when he slowed down. What can I do to prevent this? Thanks!


The throttle linkage is not adjusted properly, and the idle carb opening is probably too small also...Did the car come with the manuals?
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Old 11-12-2009, 06:26 PM   #4
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Thanks for the tips. I have to get a new dogbone because it is missing one and then I will re tune it.
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Old 11-13-2009, 12:20 AM   #5
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I checked and when I put on the brakes the carb opening becomes very little. Is this the reason it shuts off? Can anyone help me fix it! And yes it did come with the manuals.
This is not my first nitro car and I am experienced with them, I just hate to mess with throttle linkages. This same problem occurred with my savage and has now been sitting in my garage for about 6 months.
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Old 11-13-2009, 02:36 AM   #6
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Howdy all. I also recently aquired an rs4, ant thanks to you guys now have more things to check while rebuilding it this winter.
I am wondering if anyone has some suggestions for diff fluid weights. Thanks
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Old 11-14-2009, 12:16 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by fishymamba View Post
I checked and when I put on the brakes the carb opening becomes very little. Is this the reason it shuts off? Can anyone help me fix it! And yes it did come with the manuals.
This is not my first nitro car and I am experienced with them, I just hate to mess with throttle linkages. This same problem occurred with my savage and has now been sitting in my garage for about 6 months.
Yeah, that's your problem. The easiest solution is to adjust the idle screw so that the carb can't close to the point where you stall the engine, even at full brake. I also dislike messing with throttle linkage- there's a lot of variables between the actually idle screw, the linkage lengths, radio trims, all of that.
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Old 11-15-2009, 06:40 AM   #8
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does anyone know how to put a sg shaft engine in a rs4 hpi car because it comes with a threaded shaft engine
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Old 11-17-2009, 08:27 PM   #9
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Now my cars idle is really high and it get very hot(over 250) what should I do. The carb also does not sit on the engine too well it moves around a little bit. I tighten the screw holding it in place already.
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Old 11-18-2009, 02:11 PM   #10
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Now my cars idle is really high and it get very hot(over 250) what should I do. The carb also does not sit on the engine too well it moves around a little bit. I tighten the screw holding it in place already.
Ok...first of all turn all your carb needles back to factory settings (check www.hpiracing.com for manual or the engine manufactor) Second, turn the throttle brake trim on your radio to zero. Next, remove the servo horn from your throttle/brake servo. Turn radio gear on and pull back on brake now put your servo horn back on the servo in the brake postion. Release brake and tighten down the servo horn. Next, with the airfilter removed pull back on brake again. Look through carborator and see that low-speed needle has roughly a 1-2 mm opening while the full brake is applied. I've seen people do it the other way, adjusting to the throttle but I find this way to be more reliable and less chances of damaging carburator.

I've included the HPI guide in case you guys are using an engine with a rotory style carburator.



After your linkage is straightened out, turn to the Tunning Bible for further assistance tunning engine.
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