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Old 03-15-2002, 06:37 PM   #46
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Hey Dookiestick


Can't you just slot the engine mount holes on the engine block???


Keep the Rubber(or Foam)on the Road!!!

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Old 03-15-2002, 06:54 PM   #47
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Default DAT WON"T WORK

Slotting the engine block takes some machine work and I don't have access to a machine shop. If you look closely it almost lines up but not enough to make it work properly. If the gears are lined up the mounts won't line up chassis and vise versa! I would hate to buy the Picco integra engine mounts only to find out that won't work either!


http://home.attbi.com/~dashboy1/wsb/...1/site1060.JPG
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Old 03-17-2002, 06:58 AM   #48
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Default Re: DAT WON"T WORK

Quote:
Originally posted by Dookiestick
Slotting the engine block takes some machine work and I don't have access to a machine shop. If you look closely it almost lines up but not enough to make it work properly. If the gears are lined up the mounts won't line up chassis and vise versa! I would hate to buy the Picco integra engine mounts only to find out that won't work either!


http://home.attbi.com/~dashboy1/wsb/...1/site1060.JPG
looks like you will have the side belt problem with the engine back plate after you fix up the engine mount problem.
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Old 03-17-2002, 08:04 AM   #49
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Default Re: Re: DAT WON"T WORK

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Originally posted by Manticore


looks like you will have the side belt problem with the engine back plate after you fix up the engine mount problem.
That's the problem with the older Picco... never really compatible with other makes... that's why no one here runs them anymore... or rather, no that I know of...
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Old 03-17-2002, 07:22 PM   #50
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Kevin from Ace is 100% correct. To elaborate, the Picco .15 blocks are longer on the snout and don't fit without some chassis mods. I run a 1/10 Picco but switched to Novrossi engines long ago (except in my 1/8 scale). Even if you get the Picco motor mounts I have a feeling that it still won't work because the motor itself is too long. This is evidenced by the back plate/belt interference problem you will have if you do get the gears to line up.

What might work would be a different flywheel and another manufacturer's centax that is not designed for Serpent cars, but that leaves quite a few variables. The Serpent clutches are just so darned long compared to say, the Mugen clutch that it amplifies the problem.

BTW, if you do get a pair of Picco motor mounts you will probably have to cut the front one in half because they are super long and designed for the old Picco motors with a 3rd mounting lug on the front side of the case.
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Old 10-13-2011, 06:10 AM   #51
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Default This seems to be the oldest.. thread..

So it's not a matter of how do I setup my clutch but of all the irritating aspects of Nitro Onroad to date, for me it is the MEASURING of the gap while trying to hold the engine in one hand and lifting the clutch bell.

Ive used a couple of methods in the past and Mr Salven's seems to be the most common and reliable but I find it extremely difficult on a 1:10th 200m to find consistent results measuring it with vernier calipers.

Tonight I decided to have a better think about it and for me the problem lies with finding consistent points on the thrust retainer or screw, down to to 1st pinion without skewing the calipers and having varying results.

I'd like to know what others have found to be the best solution to this frustrating problem. One idea I have is to use a dedicated thrust bearing retainer screw that is wider as to get a flat base to begin measuring while I am holding the engine and lifting the clutch bell without skewing my results.


An experienced friend managed to lathe a recessed cylinder he fixed to the bottom of his calipers. I've also seen ppl with a cool digital tool that measures around the thrust bearing reatiner.

What ideas, tools, tips or suggestions are there to allow me to enjoy this necessary task..
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Old 10-13-2011, 08:10 AM   #52
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For measuring the gap, I use the hudy gap tool. Since I run a serpent clutch I remove the first gear pinion. For endplay I do not measure this I just feel for minimum play. If I feel no play then I know it's too tight and I need to remove some shims.


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Old 10-13-2011, 10:04 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lil-bump View Post
For measuring the gap, I use the hudy gap tool. Since I run a serpent clutch I remove the first gear pinion. For endplay I do not measure this I just feel for minimum play. If I feel no play then I know it's too tight and I need to remove some shims.


Pass you soon...
The end play is in effect added to the gap as the clutch engages, hence it is a factor I consider important and from my experience, I am more often wrong in estimating values that are small as I once first set the actual gap between clutch shoe and bell then added the endplay, measuring it from the thrust retainer end makes more sense. But by using the vernier caliper method and only having the thrust retaining screw to measure off, my results are never accurate. The issue is measuring the over all gap using calipers. I think I will need to get one of these tools.
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Old 10-13-2011, 10:24 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blis View Post
The end play is in effect added to the gap as the clutch engages, hence it is a factor I consider important and from my experience, I am more often wrong in estimating values that are small as I once first set the actual gap between clutch shoe and bell then added the endplay, measuring it from the thrust retainer end makes more sense. But by using the vernier caliper method and only having the thrust retaining screw to measure off, my results are never accurate. The issue is measuring the over all gap using calipers. I think I will need to get one of these tools.
End play is a portion of the gap it is not added to the gap. If you set your gap to .6mm (If done right) you can have an endplay of .5 (not recommended) You overall gap is still .6mm. The only thing that will change your gap if when the clutch shoe wears.

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Old 10-13-2011, 02:32 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lil-bump View Post
End play is a portion of the gap it is not added to the gap. If you set your gap to .6mm (If done right) you can have an endplay of .5 (not recommended) You overall gap is still .6mm. The only thing that will change your gap if when the clutch shoe wears.

Pass you soon...
What endpay gap do you run or recommended. Why, just trying to get a feel. I run just till the the cluch bell run free off clutch.
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Old 10-13-2011, 02:45 PM   #56
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What endpay gap do you run or recommended. Why, just trying to get a feel. I run just till the the cluch bell run free off clutch.
I run .2mm end play. But your clutchbell should be well off the clutch shoe.
If your clutchbell is just barely of the clutch shoe your need to increase your clutch gap.

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Last edited by lil-bump; 10-13-2011 at 02:59 PM.
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Old 10-13-2011, 02:49 PM   #57
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I run .5 or .6 cluch gap. the end play I run is about .1 to .15.
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Old 10-13-2011, 03:02 PM   #58
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Seems like a good set up. I would bounce those numbers off of the manufactures suggested settings.


Pass you soon...
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Old 10-13-2011, 03:38 PM   #59
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Guys, the post is more directed at HOW to measure the gap not the actual gap itself, say it's .6 or .5mm. When I get deviations if .2 of a mm when using a vernier caliper from the clutch nut to the 1st pinion the question I am posing is what's the best method for measuring it, not what parameters to use.

Appreciate the help, dont get me wrong, I just want to hear of any other tool or tips to consistently return accurate results. If there's grit or a burr on the 1st pinion and grit under the thrustbearing, that's more than .2mm and the measurement will be wrong... with me?
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Old 10-13-2011, 05:14 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blis View Post
Guys, the post is more directed at HOW to measure the gap not the actual gap itself, say it's .6 or .5mm. When I get deviations if .2 of a mm when using a vernier caliper from the clutch nut to the 1st pinion the question I am posing is what's the best method for measuring it, not what parameters to use.

Appreciate the help, dont get me wrong, I just want to hear of any other tool or tips to consistently return accurate results. If there's grit or a burr on the 1st pinion and grit under the thrustbearing, that's more than .2mm and the measurement will be wrong... with me?

Understood.... For clutch gap measurement the hudy or EDS clutch gauge is more than ample to do the job. For end play you can use your verniers but that can be subjective. Take a look Kamekaze RC I believe he sells the tool you mention in an earliery post. Keep at it and Good Luck

Pass you soon...
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