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Old 03-13-2002, 04:01 PM   #31
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To:Rafelli that excatly what i do! Sometimes it hard to find a tool to go in the hole though. I find a 1.5mm hex tool works well
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Old 03-14-2002, 05:10 AM   #32
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Default Endplay adjustment

Where do you adjust the endplay at for the centax???? Do you use shims behind the flywheel to achieve the right endplay on the clutchbell???

Thanks
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Old 03-14-2002, 05:20 AM   #33
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You adjust the endplay by adding shims at the front thrust washer!
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Old 03-14-2002, 09:50 AM   #34
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Default Re: Endplay adjustment

Quote:
Originally posted by GT4-R Terror
Where do you adjust the endplay at for the centax???? Do you use shims behind the flywheel to achieve the right endplay on the clutchbell???

Thanks
i dont shim between flywheel and front bearing. this leave no room for adjustment.
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Old 03-14-2002, 02:44 PM   #35
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MOON - Wow long time no see where have you been?
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Old 03-14-2002, 05:34 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally posted by adelmundo
MOON - Wow long time no see where have you been?
I am always here my dear !
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Old 03-14-2002, 08:32 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore


I am always here my dear !
MOON - well you haven't posted on here lately, esp. in the V-ONE R thread. hehehe
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Old 03-15-2002, 12:49 AM   #38
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ok finally ready to test.

i finally got the chance and i finished my pro spec kit. and i am woundering about the centax clutch .

ok. the nut against the fly wheel is suppose to be tight. is doesent seem that tight ,but i am holding the flywheel as shown. and tighting the nut and it like gets to a certain point and then the crank turns over. this is correct . right ?

and last is the gears . how do you all tighten them on. just cause the revolutions, and gravity of the engine engine turning. will naturally tighten upeven more . right ?


thanks for the help guys. [email protected] i hope i don't have to stay away from nitro that long again. 5-6 years of not touching or even messing. a man forgets alot or i am getting old.


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Old 03-15-2002, 05:34 AM   #39
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Default Re: ok finally ready to test.

Quote:
Originally posted by carpet_killa
i finally got the chance and i finished my pro spec kit. and i am woundering about the centax clutch .

ok. the nut against the fly wheel is suppose to be tight. is doesent seem that tight ,but i am holding the flywheel as shown. and tighting the nut and it like gets to a certain point and then the crank turns over. this is correct . right ?

and last is the gears . how do you all tighten them on. just cause the revolutions, and gravity of the engine engine turning. will naturally tighten upeven more . right ?


thanks for the help guys. [email protected] i hope i don't have to stay away from nitro that long again. 5-6 years of not touching or even messing. a man forgets alot or i am getting old.


Ok here's the deal. First the flywheel needs to be tight against the collet. You need a big open end wrench to hold the flywheel and i use a t-wrench with the 3 different fittings to lock the nut into place. It should feel like it's tight and you torqued it down good. I experienced a time when i tried to hold the flywheel with some type of wrench or plyers that didn't have a good grip at all on the flywheel and though it was tight and it got loose against the collet and i couldn't start it on the box

Next, the gears on the clutch housing need to be tight but not overly tight. What i do is put on the second gear pinion and hold the clutch bell very carefully and snug it down. Then i put the first gear on with a dab of blue locktite and put a rag or something on the second gear and hold the clutch bell by the second gear pinion because it's much stronger than the clutch bell itself and give the first gear some good tention. I rely on the first gear to be tight so it holds everything on .That first gear will fly off that clutch bell and will win a race with the car going down a long straight I have had my first gear come of my stock clutch and seen many flew off others. You just have to be carefull with the clutch bell because it will bend easily. So i guess it puts the theory that it would get tighter as it spins to rest. I kinda though that way with both the flywheel and the gears.
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Old 03-15-2002, 09:32 AM   #40
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Default vindollar

thanks, i need to put lock tight on the gear threads then.
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Old 03-15-2002, 11:31 AM   #41
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I wouldn't put loctite on the pinion gears. They are hard enough to unscrew when you need to change gears without loctite.
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Old 03-15-2002, 01:19 PM   #42
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Default Re: vindollar

Quote:
Originally posted by carpet_killa
thanks, i need to put lock tight on the gear threads then.

Yeah thats true though but i use serveral different cutch bell with different gear setup so i guess it workd for me
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Old 03-15-2002, 04:54 PM   #43
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Default Picco .15KSR in a Serpent Impact M2

Hey folks! I ned your help!
I just finished assembling a brand new Serpent Impact M2 car. After assembling my centax clutch onto my Picco .15KSR engine, I attempted to install it into the car only to find that it will not fit. The pinion gears and spur gears will not Line up properly. In fact, I can not get the engine to lay down in the mounting spots with the centax clutch on the engine. It is like when the clutch is on the engine it is too big for the engine mounting area. Some time During the assembly of the car, I misplaced the original centax clutch kit that came with the car so I bought a new one by team magic. I then thought that perhaps this was the problem (incompatible clutch) leading to the engine not being able to fit. I then decided to go to a serpent dealer and buy a brand new Serpent Centax clutch that originally came with the car when I bought it. I went to ACE HOBBIES in Burlingame ,CA and spoke to Kevin who is very knowledgeable about nitro cars. He told me that a new serpent centax clutch would not fix my problem and that the problem was with the Picco engine. He stated that Picco makes there big block .15's slightly bigger than the traditional big block novarossi engine and that Picco does this because they want the engine to fit only their car kits. Meaning Picco .15 engines for Picco 1/10th (235mm) scale cars only. He said that if I was set on using the .15KSR I would either have to get special motor mount screws made or dremel my chassis in order to slide the engine back further. It would need to slide back approx. 1/8th to 1/4 inch in order for the gears to line up. I must tell you I left the hobby shop very discouraged. I do have another engine (Novarossi CX15) that mounts into the car perfectly but I was really set on using the .15KSR that was modified by Paris Racing several months ago. When I did compare my Novarossi CX.15 to the Picco .15KSR I did notice that the case is slightly bigger length wise. I am really hoping that you guys can tell me I have another alternative to hacking my chassis up with a dremel or endless searching for some make believe special screws in order to get this engine to fit. I have included a couple of pictures so that you can see that there is not enough room to mount the engine with the clutch on it. Must I use a picco centax or what the hell should I do??
Please help me.

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Old 03-15-2002, 05:09 PM   #44
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Default Re: Picco .15KSR in a Serpent Impact M2

Dookiestick

Yo Dookie... waasuuup! Sorry, couldn't resist!

I don't know for sure, but I would bet that by using motor mounts for the Picco car, it will line up. You might make a trek to one of the RAMS club races at Mission College. There are quite a few guys running Picco 1/8 scale cars there. They may have some suggestions too.
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Old 03-15-2002, 05:40 PM   #45
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YO PHYSCO WASSSSSSSUP MY BROTHA!!!!!
You may be right now that I think about it. I am using the stock serpent motor mounts. Prhaps the Picco mounts for the Picco Integra 1/10th scale car will work. But my luck the mounts will line up on the top but not on the chassis.

Thanks I will give it a try!
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