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Old 10-06-2009, 05:40 PM   #1
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Default Truer calibration?

When my hudy truer was new I could set it at 60, and then 0 and almost always get a 60ish mm tire. I've since cut hundreds of sets and started doing 18th and 8th scale tires and now it seems to be pretty far off. I've tried reseating the screw that holds the square piece to the bit but I always end up with the same setting.

Does anybody know how to recalibrate it properly?
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Old 10-06-2009, 07:32 PM   #2
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Loosen the two screws to the right of the dashes and slide the block forward or backwards to adjust the cutting depth then tighten.
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Old 10-06-2009, 09:34 PM   #3
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Loosen the two screws to the right of the dashes and slide the block forward or backwards to adjust the cutting depth then tighten.
I tried that a few times, I must have been doing it wrong though. I tried to set the dial at 0, and then get a 60mm cut by measuring from 62, 61.5 and so on and it didn't seem to ever cut 60.0 at 0, the dial had to be at -0.5 and 58's had to be -1.0 or something similar to that. maybe just the wear in the bit?
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Old 10-06-2009, 11:31 PM   #4
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I tried that a few times, I must have been doing it wrong though. I tried to set the dial at 0, and then get a 60mm cut by measuring from 62, 61.5 and so on and it didn't seem to ever cut 60.0 at 0, the dial had to be at -0.5 and 58's had to be -1.0 or something similar to that. maybe just the wear in the bit?
first you need to relocate the wheel. it has a grub screw that you can loosen. you need set the wheel to coincide with the measurement on a tire after a test cut. afterwards the dashes can be set to match.
example
so you set the truer to 60mm make a cut and it measures 60.4mm so you need to loosen the wheel and reset it to to indicate 0.4. After this setting is correct, then spin the wheel to 0.0, and now loosen the 2 screws 'to the right' and reset so the dashes line up with 60.0mm

now you should be good.

forgot to mention the screw is a single thread lead screw. so this setting should be repeatable. if you lost calibration it must be either because the cutter bit was bumped/moved(or wore down) or the grub screw holding the wheel got loose. either way it is a simple fix.
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Old 10-07-2009, 06:58 AM   #5
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first you need to relocate the wheel. it has a grub screw that you can loosen. you need set the wheel to coincide with the measurement on a tire after a test cut. afterwards the dashes can be set to match.
example
so you set the truer to 60mm make a cut and it measures 60.4mm so you need to loosen the wheel and reset it to to indicate 0.4. After this setting is correct, then spin the wheel to 0.0, and now loosen the 2 screws 'to the right' and reset so the dashes line up with 60.0mm

now you should be good.

forgot to mention the screw is a single thread lead screw. so this setting should be repeatable. if you lost calibration it must be either because the cutter bit was bumped/moved(or wore down) or the grub screw holding the wheel got loose. either way it is a simple fix.
that is exactly what happened, I didn't now about that setscrew and apparently with years of truing it was slightly loose and the wheel turned. It is back to 60.0 and 58.0 again, thanks for the help. I don't know why it wasn't as obvious to me.
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Old 10-07-2009, 07:55 AM   #6
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that is exactly what happened, I didn't now about that setscrew and apparently with years of truing it was slightly loose and the wheel turned. It is back to 60.0 and 58.0 again, thanks for the help. I don't know why it wasn't as obvious to me.
i know what you mean, when something just works well, one tends to ignore the how and why.
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Old 10-07-2009, 09:27 PM   #7
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Try to check the two round metal rod inside the slider. If the screw is loose it may makes the slider to move around. That is what happen to mine and I tighten the screws and everything works fine now.
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Old 10-07-2009, 09:39 PM   #8
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Try to check the two round metal rod inside the slider. If the screw is loose it may makes the slider to move around. That is what happen to mine and I tighten the screws and everything works fine now.
you know we are old school when the truer gets loose from too many sets of tires.
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Old 10-13-2009, 01:45 PM   #9
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Did you get this figured out?
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Old 10-13-2009, 07:48 PM   #10
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Did you get this figured out?
Sort of, 60mm is always 60mm. but if I do a full turn which would be 58mm I end up with 58.5, so I have to do 2.5 on the dial to get 2mm on the tire. it is consistent but I remember this truer being perfect when I first got it. Perhaps time is wearing on it.

I would hate to see how far off my first 8th scale tire will be, I am just going to have to start 2mm big and measure every tire I cut.. I used to remember cutting by the dial tire after tire 60 and 58 or 58 and 56 and they would be within .1 or so
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Old 10-13-2009, 08:26 PM   #11
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Brian,

Check to see if you are cutting with a camber angle. I found that if I have the camber cut set to 1 degree then the cut using the graduated dial is not accurate, but it is fairly accurate when the camber cut knob is set to 0 degree cut.

You can adjust the camber cut by turning the small knob located below the graduated dial.

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Old 10-13-2009, 08:52 PM   #12
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Brian,

Check to see if you are cutting with a camber angle. I found that if I have the camber cut set to 1 degree then the cut using the graduated dial is not accurate, but it is fairly accurate when the camber cut knob is set to 0 degree cut.

You can adjust the camber cut by turning the small knob located below the graduated dial.

Eduardo
I usually always cut 1 degree, but I set it using the camber all the way out at 0 locked against the stop. None of the screws on the bottom are loose either..

Can the slides cause this? I was looking at replacement parts and you can find most of the truer assembly besides the base in pieces.
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Old 10-14-2009, 05:35 AM   #13
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Brian,

One more thing to check. There should be no backslash in the graduated dial. You can check for backslash by pulling and pushing the dial, if there is movement that could cause faulty cut/readings. To take out the backslash lose the grub screw on the dial and push it all the way in, then tigthen the grub screw and check the backslash again. There should be no play at all.

Eduardo
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Old 08-19-2014, 11:00 PM   #14
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Just used this thread for a pre-worlds calibration. Maybe a reminder for someone else to do the same. Thanks a ton guys. I needed a refresher!
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Old 08-19-2014, 11:48 PM   #15
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A softer tire will expand more during rotation. If you calibrate the truer to one shore it will be off to another shore.
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