1/10 Nitro Spec Series work up
#16
Tech Elite
iTrader: (30)
If you want to do the spec engine thing, one of the best low cost engines on the market is the OS 12TG. Cost of this engine is around $130. Another engine for consideration would be the new Dynamite .12. It is also another low cost mill (under $150).
But like I stated earlier, when does it end as far as agreeing on what to and not to run for a spec class. And, whatever is chosen, some will balk regardless. Research, set the rules, and don't waver from them. If you have to make amendments/modifications to the rules, do so accordingly and stand strong by the rules and rulings.
But like I stated earlier, when does it end as far as agreeing on what to and not to run for a spec class. And, whatever is chosen, some will balk regardless. Research, set the rules, and don't waver from them. If you have to make amendments/modifications to the rules, do so accordingly and stand strong by the rules and rulings.
#17
This is a good idea and I hope that you have success with it. However, look out for the naysayers that will tell you that it will not work, why just this car and why can't I run car X, car Y, or car Z, why can't I run engine X, engine Y, etc, why do I have to run this tire, why can't I run foams or that tire, etc, etc. You get the picture. Everywhere I have been and someone tried to start a spec class like you are, this is what always comes up. Don't let others sabotage what you want to do.
#18
If it is to get the streetracer to the tracks you will not want to give them the extra costs of a spec engine. Their driving will be poor and keeping it with their standard pull/rotostart engines will be good enough.
#19
a few years ago I tried to get a RTR class at our home track.
It lasted some 2 races, and then the interest died...
You really have to constantly put energy in it, keep advertising and keep asking streetracers to come, otherwise they will not show up anymore....
Also be sure you will have some spares available at the track, because streetracers don't have ANY spare parts.
A broken wheel, glow plug or spurgear (happens a lot with those people) will end there day....
It lasted some 2 races, and then the interest died...
You really have to constantly put energy in it, keep advertising and keep asking streetracers to come, otherwise they will not show up anymore....
Also be sure you will have some spares available at the track, because streetracers don't have ANY spare parts.
A broken wheel, glow plug or spurgear (happens a lot with those people) will end there day....
#20
I like the idea of using the HPI car for the series. Yes, there might be slightly better cars. But, when you look at the overall package, esp for a starter series, the HPI makes sense. Good running motors. A complete lineup of bodies that are easy to mount, and some are already pre painted and drilled. Good parts support (something that KYOSHO lacks), good tires and nice wheels, esp the vintage cars, etc...
Use the HPI cars, and you can actually follow the Challenge series rules and have an RCGT class and a vintage class....all with the same car, just swapping out tires and bodies.......
Use the HPI cars, and you can actually follow the Challenge series rules and have an RCGT class and a vintage class....all with the same car, just swapping out tires and bodies.......
#21
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
I was wondering when you'd show up Harry I agree with you for the exception of one thing....locking in on only one brand car locks the people who already have a different brand car out. This is ok if you have a large group of guys wanting to purchase their first car, but if you want to get some of the street runners involved you have to allow other brands to participate. This is why I believe the tires, bodies, and motors should be enough of an equalizer for the noobs
#22
The kyosho fazer seems fair at a price of 205$. Does anyone know of a review of this car?
#23
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
I brought up having a spec class at my track (301 raceway) last year. There ar epros and cons on both sides of it, so depending on what the race scene looks like in your area, it may work and it may not. First, consider your turnout and what they run. Say you have 12-15 people that run 1/10. How many will run both open and spec, or how many will only run one class? And how will that affect the races? Say you have 12 that come out every race. If, say, 4 want to run spec and 8 want to run open, what do you do? You end up breaking up a class that may have enough to support itself, but not necessarily to support 2 classes.
Then consider what will be spec. Spec chassis, spec engine, spec tires? A combination of all? If it's a spec chassis, are enough people running RS4s at the track, or will 1/10 races have to go buy another chassis to run the class? If it's any chassis but spec motor, will the racers be willing to buy a spec motor and clutch and run it in their current car?
Believe me, I'm not trying to rain on your parade. I had super highhopes that a spec class could work in the area. But after discussing it with the track owner, race director and some other locals, it just wouldn't work here. If you have enough people to get behind the idea and they actually come out and race, you can do it. But if it's at risk of splintering a class that needs all the support it can get, it may not be worth it.
Now that I think about it, teh supposed 'spec' class here (DM1/GT class) didn't really take off, dispite 20+ people having the car...
Then consider what will be spec. Spec chassis, spec engine, spec tires? A combination of all? If it's a spec chassis, are enough people running RS4s at the track, or will 1/10 races have to go buy another chassis to run the class? If it's any chassis but spec motor, will the racers be willing to buy a spec motor and clutch and run it in their current car?
Believe me, I'm not trying to rain on your parade. I had super highhopes that a spec class could work in the area. But after discussing it with the track owner, race director and some other locals, it just wouldn't work here. If you have enough people to get behind the idea and they actually come out and race, you can do it. But if it's at risk of splintering a class that needs all the support it can get, it may not be worth it.
Now that I think about it, teh supposed 'spec' class here (DM1/GT class) didn't really take off, dispite 20+ people having the car...
#24
I was wondering when you'd show up Harry I agree with you for the exception of one thing....locking in on only one brand car locks the people who already have a different brand car out. This is ok if you have a large group of guys wanting to purchase their first car, but if you want to get some of the street runners involved you have to allow other brands to participate. This is why I believe the tires, bodies, and motors should be enough of an equalizer for the noobs
I agree...I kind of got the idea he wanted to use one brand. But, if different chassis's are to be allowed, why not run it like the wildly popular HPi RC GT series....
here's the main part of the article....
http://www.hpiracing.com/rcgt/
The idea behind the unique RCGT Challenge class is simple, it strives in going back to the true roots of what competitive touring car racing was, and should be all about- awesome, realistic looks, and most importantly, FUN! And on top of all the scale realism that RCGT brings to the table, it is also competitive and accessible to all, due to the fact that it is inexpensive to get into and is suitable for racers of all skill levels, yet it still puts your skills to the ultimate test.
Want to bring the RCGT Challenge to your tack? It's easy! The rules of RCGT are plain, simple, easy to follow, and set up to allow racers to pull out their cars on the shelf or in the closet, and still be plenty competitive. Here is how to get the RCGT Challenge started at your local track:
-Any 1/10th scale 4WD Touring Car chassis.
-Any "realistic/scale" Touring Car/GT body (No "Race" bodies, Stratus, Mazda 6 etc.)
-Bodies should represent models that are running or had been run in the Touring Car, GT2, GT1 classes in ALMS, LeMans, Speed Challenge etc.
-Any 26mm spoked wheels (no dish wheels)
Allowable X-Pattern tire choices are up to the race organizer, with competitiveness and cost in mind:
-HPI #4790 X-Pattern Radial Tire 26mm D-Compound (base spec tire)
-HPI #4490 X-Pattern Radial Tire Pro Compound 26mm (stickier compound for improved traction)
-HPI #4495 X-Pattern Radial Belted Tire Pro Compound 26mm (sticky and belted tire, allows for more speed)
-Kit Lexan wing (flat realistic wing if included) or Plastic realistic wing set(s) only (keeping in mind the spirit of realism of the class)
-27T/17.5 Motor Limit.
-6 cell NiMH or 2 cell LiPo 7.2/7.4v battery limit.
-Suggested minimum weight limit: 1350 grams
Keeping the spirit of the class, scale realism, the final decisions on specs should be decided by each local track/organizer and should reflect the local flavor of the track/racers.
#25
I have been looking threw many different models from different makers but when it is all done I still cant get away from HPI as the car is just in so many ways an easy choice.
1-Less the $400 Canadian
2-Strong support for all involved as any LHS sells the cars and parts
3-Large option list for bodies for new racers (pre-painted and trimmed)
3-Most complete kit for the price
#27
Tech Elite
iTrader: (4)
Why not just leave the spec stuff to the engine and body. There are too many tires on the market to settle with just one and if a racer already has tires, they would not want to spend even more dollars on getting even more tires. Like the spec IGT racing that I currently participate in, we have and engine rule (with a listing of approved engines), a body rule (only car bodies, no truck or buggy bodies), and a tire rule (any rubber tire made for the IGT-styled car). You want to leave a little flexibility with the tire rule due to some that participate or want to participate in the spec class may be comfortable with using Jaco or HPI tires and not Sorex. Just my opinion due to having to draw up rules in my area for a spec class with the IGT cars and still got bashed for not including something (too much out there and can't catch everything).
Last edited by JLock; 09-13-2009 at 06:21 PM.
#28
Oh I am sorry it seams I have worded my question wrong, here we go again.
Anyone have a solid recommendation for a good spec tire to run for this series? I am thinking to go with Sorex but unsure on the compound at this time aswell as sizing?
Thanks for all the help thus far guy's, it has been a HUGE help.
Sean
Anyone have a solid recommendation for a good spec tire to run for this series? I am thinking to go with Sorex but unsure on the compound at this time aswell as sizing?
Thanks for all the help thus far guy's, it has been a HUGE help.
Sean
#29
Tech Elite
iTrader: (4)
Oh I am sorry it seams I have worded my question wrong, here we go again.
Anyone have a solid recommendation for a good spec tire to run for this series? I am thinking to go with Sorex but unsure on the compound at this time aswell as sizing?
Thanks for all the help thus far guy's, it has been a HUGE help.
Sean
Anyone have a solid recommendation for a good spec tire to run for this series? I am thinking to go with Sorex but unsure on the compound at this time aswell as sizing?
Thanks for all the help thus far guy's, it has been a HUGE help.
Sean
#30
No problem thanks for the insight and I will be sure to take your thoughts into consideration. Now that being said I am still very interested in knowing the different tires people would recommend for a Nitro Spec Series. There is a racing club not far from us in Ottawa www.rcottawa.com that has been very successful with the very same series since 2007 and they have been running the series with the Sorex 36R tire with great results.
Check out the rules:
2007 SPEC NITRO RACE SERIES RULES
OVERVIEW: The idea is to keep things simple and fair. Everyone will run the same car, engine, electronics, tires and starting equipment. Also there will be no setup involved, cars will be run as they came out of the box, there will be no need to change shock angles, oils or get springs or sway bars, the cars will be the same on the track for everyone (good or bad). As the series goes on if something comes up as a weakness in the car that would be cost effective to change or replace on the car for say a hop-up. The group would decide as a group. Again we don't want all out aluminium graphite conversions of the car as we take a step back to full out race cars. There is no question that these cars are not world class race machines so we wont waste money trying to improve them for nothing. After all we all will running the same car..
UPDATES: Please check out this link for legal changes you can make to your car that will ensure longer life and durability. LEGAL CHANGES
CHASSIS:
RTR Nitro RS4 3 Evo #10001 #10002 #10031 #10032 #10033 #10034
All stock parts must stay stock
No hop-ups allowed
Custom or aftermarket bumper is allowed (recommended) RPM NTC3 bumper fits well
No Suspension tuning (springs, oils, sway bars, ect)
ENGINE:
Only the kit included nitro star T-15 engine may be used
stock air filter only
fuel tubing maybe changed as needed.
no internal engine modifications are permitted
TUNED PIPE:
kit supplied plastic pipe must be used
no modifications to the pipe or header permitted
A longer nut and bolt combo may be used to secure the header to the engine block.
TIRES:
kit included D-Compound X-Pattern maybe used.
any rim
spec tire Sorex 36R
BODIES:
Any 10th scale 200mm body
Holes of any size and location need for cooling and access to fuel tank and carb are allowed
ELECTRONICS:
Kit included HPI servos must be used
IF HPI servo fails then either the same HPI servo must be installed or an alternate FUTABA 3003 servo maybe used (very cheap 15$)
No other servos allowed
Kit included transmitter and receiver can be used
Any Transmitter and receiver combo can be used (many people own radios they are used to as well this will help keep freq conflicts to a minimum)
Kit included RX pack may be upgraded to a 5cell NIHM RXpack (highly recommended)
STARTING GEAR:
Only the included ROTO START will be allowed
Any brand of glow plug igniter is allowed
no starter boxes
Check out the rules:
2007 SPEC NITRO RACE SERIES RULES
OVERVIEW: The idea is to keep things simple and fair. Everyone will run the same car, engine, electronics, tires and starting equipment. Also there will be no setup involved, cars will be run as they came out of the box, there will be no need to change shock angles, oils or get springs or sway bars, the cars will be the same on the track for everyone (good or bad). As the series goes on if something comes up as a weakness in the car that would be cost effective to change or replace on the car for say a hop-up. The group would decide as a group. Again we don't want all out aluminium graphite conversions of the car as we take a step back to full out race cars. There is no question that these cars are not world class race machines so we wont waste money trying to improve them for nothing. After all we all will running the same car..
UPDATES: Please check out this link for legal changes you can make to your car that will ensure longer life and durability. LEGAL CHANGES
CHASSIS:
RTR Nitro RS4 3 Evo #10001 #10002 #10031 #10032 #10033 #10034
All stock parts must stay stock
No hop-ups allowed
Custom or aftermarket bumper is allowed (recommended) RPM NTC3 bumper fits well
No Suspension tuning (springs, oils, sway bars, ect)
ENGINE:
Only the kit included nitro star T-15 engine may be used
stock air filter only
fuel tubing maybe changed as needed.
no internal engine modifications are permitted
TUNED PIPE:
kit supplied plastic pipe must be used
no modifications to the pipe or header permitted
A longer nut and bolt combo may be used to secure the header to the engine block.
TIRES:
kit included D-Compound X-Pattern maybe used.
any rim
spec tire Sorex 36R
BODIES:
Any 10th scale 200mm body
Holes of any size and location need for cooling and access to fuel tank and carb are allowed
ELECTRONICS:
Kit included HPI servos must be used
IF HPI servo fails then either the same HPI servo must be installed or an alternate FUTABA 3003 servo maybe used (very cheap 15$)
No other servos allowed
Kit included transmitter and receiver can be used
Any Transmitter and receiver combo can be used (many people own radios they are used to as well this will help keep freq conflicts to a minimum)
Kit included RX pack may be upgraded to a 5cell NIHM RXpack (highly recommended)
STARTING GEAR:
Only the included ROTO START will be allowed
Any brand of glow plug igniter is allowed
no starter boxes