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Old 07-09-2004, 01:41 PM   #91
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load..

when you switch the dpt switch you are going between the 5watt resistor and the 10 watts of resistance on the electric motor. since the electric motor is generating voltage that is being fed back into it, it is acting just like when you hit the brakes on your electic rc car, and is thus adding a "resistance" to the motor......kinda like stepping on the brake and the gas at the same time. the brakes are the load the gas is the engine you are testing. the resistance the motor creates is the LOAD.....hope that made sense.
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Old 07-09-2004, 01:54 PM   #92
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Is there a way of converting load to hp? Where's my Physics book when I need it.
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Old 07-09-2004, 03:11 PM   #93
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there is deffinately a way to convert load to HP, the problem is that in this given dyno (inexpensive) there are way too many variables to accurately calculte the HP. real dynos use a flywheel of a specific mass. the acceleration of this mass is the load (think how hard it is to spin a heavy object) it's WAAAAY more consistent and accurate. see with the motor being used for resistance, the resistance changes with things such as brush wear, heat buildup....and so forth. also, the resistance varies as the motor spools up (more rpms=more voltage generated by the slave motor= more resistance..... try to calculate that....) see what i mean. that said, this method is excellent for comparative measures like one engine to the next, or pre-mods to post mods....
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Old 07-09-2004, 04:34 PM   #94
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What's going on fellas.
Since you'll are on the subject of engine dino's let me tell you about my new toy.

It's made by APS(Kfactory), and it's called the Engine Diagnostic System(EDS), its basically an onboard engine dino, after you wire everything up to your engine(supplied), you plug them into the onboard recorder which is about the size of a handout transponder and then you just drive your car, after you finish your tank of gas you bring it in and plug the converter box into the recorder then it downloads the information into the converter were it tells you the max. r.p.m., idle speeds & engine temps, you can even read the numders and find out at what r.p.m. your two speed shifts, all of this shows on a backlit LCD screen that is easy to read and understand, I think it's a great tuning aid once you know what numbers you are trying to achieve, I just got the numbers from one of my faster motors which had a max. r.p.m. of 39,750(Mario Rossi NS3) and applyed those readings to the rest of my engine with good results, so if your looking for definite numbers from your engines this is the best option available to the public in my opinion.

I got it from;
MAGMA INTERNATIONAL
[email protected]
905 886-1808 ask for Annie

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Old 07-09-2004, 05:13 PM   #95
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Talking Re: Dyno part 1

Quote:
Originally posted by HELLION
Guys I'm so sorry I just havent had time to post this dyno. This isn't my design but it's easier to use then mine and cheap to build. The resistors are what load the engine. you have to figure out a way to hook up your engine to the electric motor I use pullys and a belt. A simple way to do all of this is to get a scrap piece of alum. and some motor mounts and bolt them to your starter box I have one for doing just engines and one for doing cars I will go into much more detail on both when I get cought up with making my bodies but this should give you a good start
Hellion all I have to say is you constantly amaze me!! You whipped that up in an hour . you are just really good at this stuff. Keep up the good work dude.
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Old 07-09-2004, 06:32 PM   #96
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Talking

Hellion when are you going to share your engine mod secrets to us?
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Old 07-10-2004, 02:29 AM   #97
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Default LOAD!!!

LOAD= Something I got rid of in my divorce Man I sometimes suck at explaining things but here goes. Lets say that you had your engine on a test bench and while you where testing it the flywheel nut came flying off and you where at wide open throttle the next sound you would hear is silence cause u just tore your engine to pieces ! Load is something that your enging is producing power too IE Drive train on your car . Lets say you installed a lighter weight flywheel on your engine you will notice that the engine is now going to have a higher RPM range do to the engine now has a less of a load to power. does this mean you have added more power ? Not necessarily do to you lost a little amount of torque by making your fly wheel lighter so even thowe you added some RPM with the lighter flywheel u might have just shot your self in the foot by the amount of torque you lost doing so. Rember you engine is not producing maxamim power at its highest RPM range.... continued>>>
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Old 07-10-2004, 02:47 AM   #98
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Default load part 2

Do you notice when you drive your real car if u slame the clutch in first gear and spin the tiers but when you are doing 50 MPH you slame the clutch in 4th gear and the tiers dont spin? This is caused by load there is less of a load on your engine in first gear . If u started out in 4th gear u would put to much of a load on your engine . I'm sure there is a better explanition for this but its 3 in the morn so I'm a little tierd and Mop man to answer your question the volt meter it self does NOT put a load on the engine it just tells you what the engine is doing thats why the resistors are added with a switch. When u hit the switch it makes it harder for the electric motor to spin which inturn makes the gas engine that it's hooked to work harder (more load) I really wonder if any of you read this whole thing with out yawning
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Old 07-10-2004, 03:08 AM   #99
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Well rats bye the time it took me to answer this it had allready been done Eric a friend of mine has one of the units you wher talking about and Iv'e used it and its way cool but someone mentchend variables eearlier and hes rightand wind can affect it quite a bit but it can be used as a effective tool and did I say how cool it wasand the dyno I showed has variables too but it's a little more consistent.If I was able to invest 500 thousand bucks in a dynoto sute rc cars it would be so complacated and have so many parts im sure it would also have its share of variables Guys these tools are not perfect they do help you get a idea of what your engine is doingwhich beats the hell out of guessing!!! and thanks for the complament on building that dyno in a hour but Ill tell you looking at it it sure looks like i only put a hour into it OK crawling into bed now good night all
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Old 07-10-2004, 03:10 AM   #100
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Hey Hellion. It is out of topic-no modding question.
How do you load your engines on your car: 1st when you shifting from first to second on pic of torq , before or after, 2nd top speed tunning ( gearing and tires) on the end of stright line is it on pick HP, before or after?
Thanks in advance
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Old 07-10-2004, 05:14 AM   #101
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Default Re: sleepy

Quote:
Originally posted by HELLION
Well rats bye the time it took me to answer this it had allready been done Eric a friend of mine has one of the units you wher talking about and Iv'e used it and its way cool but someone mentchend variables eearlier and hes rightand wind can affect it quite a bit but it can be used as a effective tool and did I say how cool it wasand the dyno I showed has variables too but it's a little more consistent.If I was able to invest 500 thousand bucks in a dynoto sute rc cars it would be so complacated and have so many parts im sure it would also have its share of variables Guys these tools are not perfect they do help you get a idea of what your engine is doingwhich beats the hell out of guessing!!! and thanks for the complament on building that dyno in a hour but Ill tell you looking at it it sure looks like i only put a hour into it OK crawling into bed now good night all
OK... now i am a bit UNDERSTOOD about the 'load' thing. Means the ELECTRIC MOTOR will give some load to your engine and the switch you had on your VOLT METER is to control the RESISTOR that is giving load to the electric motor.

SO.......... the bigger the RESISTOR the more load your will apply to your Electircal motor and the MORE load your GAS MOTOR have to bear.

but...am i correct let say..... no need for you to have OPTIONS on the load. You only have 1 level of load. It is okay as long as you have a LOAD for your GAS MOTOR. And you should read the result before the MOD being DONE. Do some test (say 3 tests) before the MOD and sum the results and do a pro-rated result. after the MOD do some 3 more tests and sum the results and have a pro-rated result.... than you can see the 'power difference'.... am i correct?

emmmmmmm.... what am i talking abuot?

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Old 07-10-2004, 11:01 AM   #102
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Default woooo!

OK no more typing for me at 3 in the morn. That last post is a little messy! Sorry bout that. Mop man the switch has two positions.1 has one resistor and 2 has two resistors(two diffrent loads) which should be sufficient enough for the test.If you want to try diffrent loads then I would change the pulley sizes instead of adding more resistors and try to simulate the tests as close as you can. IE engine temp Nitro % and so fourth. I do 3 test before and after letting the engine cool down all the way between test TOP GUN could you rephrase you question I don't understand what you are trying to ask. If the load is figuerd into the power analyses the numbers will drop If you are asking when the engine delivers it's peek power that's around 80 to 85 %of it's duty cycle
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Old 07-10-2004, 03:56 PM   #103
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Mop : yes you do only need one load on your engine to run it on a test stand . You can run it with out a load if you keep the RPMs way down but I wouldent suggest doing it. I can't think of a reason why there would be a need to do so.
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Old 07-10-2004, 04:11 PM   #104
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Talking Re: one more

Quote:
Originally posted by HELLION
last one
Very nice setup. Can you please aim the camera a little higher to see who the chicks on the wall.
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Old 07-11-2004, 01:24 AM   #105
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Default duration of DYNO TEST.

Quote:
Originally posted by HELLION
Mop : yes you do only need one load on your engine to run it on a test stand . You can run it with out a load if you keep the RPMs way down but I wouldent suggest doing it. I can't think of a reason why there would be a need to do so.
OK... if you wouldnt suggest to run the engine at LOW RPM...

then,

HOW LONG (minutes / second / tank of fuel) you have to run your engine at WOT (wide open throttle) with some load on the engine?



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