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Old 07-15-2009, 08:09 PM   #1
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Default KYOSHO V1 RR EVOLUTION

hello. Im kinda new to 1/10 200mm touring car and i have the v1 rr, can anyone tell me if i can upgrade this car to the rrr or should i just leave it alone and race it as is. do you know what year this was made?and also wondering why it costs more than the rrrit is still brand new in box and will be building it in a couple of days. also if anyone has any building tips i would greatly appriciate it, thanks to all
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Old 07-15-2009, 09:18 PM   #2
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hello. Im kinda new to 1/10 200mm touring car and i have the v1 rr, can anyone tell me if i can upgrade this car to the rrr or should i just leave it alone and race it as is. do you know what year this was made?and also wondering why it costs more than the rrrit is still brand new in box and will be building it in a couple of days. also if anyone has any building tips i would greatly appriciate it, thanks to all
Having only seen the manual from the v1 rr, it seems that you could leave it alone and be fine for club racing and use as close to a rrr setup as you can. I would ditch the pan car type body and rear post setup for the rrr's and use a protoform stratus 3.1 touring car body unless you already have a touring car setup then you are good.

Someone recently mentioned that it has a spool or solid front axle, use that and 30,000wt rear diff fluid. 650 in the shocks and highest front roll center pins and lowest rear roll center pins and you should have a reasonably decent start for a setup.

Cost? if it contained the spool that I've seen plus a front diff and all the extra options that I think it does then I could possibly see it or it is just the old retail price. The pan car style body was an option, and I think the rrr conversion to it costs something around $50 so that could be part of it too.
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Old 07-15-2009, 09:35 PM   #3
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thanks, that does help me alot. it did not come w/body, has one way front and did include foams, just ordered the stratus. did u say i can eventually upgrade it to the rrr? also do you know good after market products, or stick with kyosho. yea, dont know why kyosho usa site still shows the rr evo at i think 60 to 80 more. thanks again for the info
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Old 07-15-2009, 09:56 PM   #4
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have fun reading through this!

http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-ro...er-thread.html
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Old 07-15-2009, 10:22 PM   #5
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HOLLY SH#@, thanks, do you know if there is an RR thread?
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Old 07-16-2009, 10:24 AM   #6
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thanks, that does help me alot. it did not come w/body, has one way front and did include foams, just ordered the stratus. did u say i can eventually upgrade it to the rrr? also do you know good after market products, or stick with kyosho. yea, dont know why kyosho usa site still shows the rr evo at i think 60 to 80 more. thanks again for the info
I think its their way of saying buy from you local hobby shop but if you absolutely need it, we have it here too....we're just gonna charge you an arm and a leg to get it from us.

I've noticed all there stuff is way higher when you buy it direct from them. I once bought 2 bearing from thatcost me 14.95, only to find out my hobby shop had them for 5 bucks.
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Old 07-16-2009, 12:15 PM   #7
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I think its their way of saying buy from you local hobby shop but if you absolutely need it, we have it here too....we're just gonna charge you an arm and a leg to get it from us.

I've noticed all there stuff is way higher when you buy it direct from them. I once bought 2 bearing from thatcost me 14.95, only to find out my hobby shop had them for 5 bucks.
One local shop to me costs more than shopkyosho.com but very few will sell under the online price because Kyosho keeps a strict pricing model on the dealers and have plenty of stock.. Imagine where I shop?

I personally don't like a one-way because you have no front brakes and they are usually not good for low traction. I would order a ybslow aluminum spool. Other than that the v1 rr manual seems to have everything that mostly the RRR. To protect the rear shock tower, you can run two stacked or buy the evo2 tower which is a bit stronger than what you have.

Don't get caught up in the aftermarket too much, get some time on that car and then buy the rrr evo2 wc when your car is totally worn out (come to think of it, the price difference in most of the kits is because of CVD's in the WC kits and other small things like hollow drive center shafts)
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Old 07-18-2009, 05:24 AM   #8
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hey thanks for the advice, your right about the pricing, spoke to a rep at kyosho. as for the spool, does it give you that same shoot out of corners? i never tried one, only oneways, and the braking does suc a little, can you tell me in your opinion where the spool excells over the oneway? im in the middle of building and i must say that this car screams quality! so far everything fits perfectly thanks for the help. oh one more thing, the manual says use rubber cement for the brake pads, is CA glue fine? thanks
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Old 07-18-2009, 11:01 AM   #9
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hey thanks for the advice, your right about the pricing, spoke to a rep at kyosho. as for the spool, does it give you that same shoot out of corners? i never tried one, only oneways, and the braking does suc a little, can you tell me in your opinion where the spool excells over the oneway? im in the middle of building and i must say that this car screams quality! so far everything fits perfectly thanks for the help. oh one more thing, the manual says use rubber cement for the brake pads, is CA glue fine? thanks
The spool and one-way act the same under power, you gain straight line braking but you lose smooth cornering (the oneway allows the outside tire to turn faster with partial throttle, the spool makes you push)

If you are not using the brakes anywhere, keep the one-way.

rubber cement does hold better, ca will crack and then they will be two pieces because you are mounting to metal. Try the kyosho offroad truggy brake pads (they're more like a real cars material mounted already) and a metal brake disc if you want something light and easy to work with.
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Old 07-18-2009, 07:30 PM   #10
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Thanks for the help brian. actually my main track is large, sweepers, really no braking required, so ill stick w/the one way there but i will be travelling to a track north of me that i hear is tight many tight turns so some braking will be needed. ill be putting in an order monday at ybslow(thanks for that one)for the spool. as for the ca glue i kinda figured that but wasnt to sure thanks. before i put that order in monday is there anything else you would recomend that would be important besides foams? as for the body, have you heard or ever tried the DNA protoform body, im not sure about that or the stratus. the build is going together smooth cnt wait to race it thanks again
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Old 07-18-2009, 08:47 PM   #11
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Thanks for the help brian. actually my main track is large, sweepers, really no braking required, so ill stick w/the one way there but i will be travelling to a track north of me that i hear is tight many tight turns so some braking will be needed. ill be putting in an order monday at ybslow(thanks for that one)for the spool. as for the ca glue i kinda figured that but wasnt to sure thanks. before i put that order in monday is there anything else you would recomend that would be important besides foams? as for the body, have you heard or ever tried the DNA protoform body, im not sure about that or the stratus. the build is going together smooth cnt wait to race it thanks again
I personally only run the stratus body because I tend to drive around setup problems and like my car to be as close to the same as possible each run so I don't even test bodies like the dna, I hear people love it for the downforce and that it is much faster but I beat those same people most of the time with a stratus.

some people will argue that a front diff is the best for braking, I only run a spool and I suffer on some small tracks because of my reluctance to run a diff if you have a series of tight S turns (more than 3-4 in a row with no straight line)..

the only other things I like right now are they ybslow brass battery trays because they are heavy and you can run lipo cells and then the truggy brake setup with the old v1 aluminum hub with the plastic rear pulley. front cvd's and rear dogbones, carbon body braces (they go between the body posts on top of the pins inside the body to reinforce them side to side, tape your body where they sit)
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Old 07-18-2009, 10:07 PM   #12
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I'm not exactly sure what car you are talking about. I've had the V One R the V One RR and the V One RR Evo. I never got the V One RRR.

V One R - About 1999 to 2001. One of the first nitro TCs to be based on 1/8th designs using a clutch type two speed. Servo was mounted on top of the radio plate in the center directly linked to the steering knuckles with a servo mounted servo saver.

V One RR - About 2001-2002 Upgraded version of the V One R with oneway and centax style clutch and floating rear body mount like that on 1/8th cars

V One RR Evo - 1st redesign of the car about 2002 - 2003. It uses the same rear end as the V One R but it stops there. Everything forward of the rear end from the engine is completely new. It uses a laydown steering servo with center steering bellcrank saver. The front bulkheads are different and the front end is narrower than the previous V One R, hence the suspension arms and drives shafts are longer. However the hubs are still the same. Of course the radio plate and chassis are completely different. Kyosho at that time offered a conversion kit for the V One R to RR Evo which included all the parts that were changed. The conversion kit came with a Shimo lightweight alum. chassis and a woven graphite radio plate.

V One RRR and onward - This chassis is completely new. There is no compatibility of this car with any of the previous V Ones. The floating rear body mount was eliminated. However all the different versions of the RRR can be upgraded to the current version.

As with all older cars, parts become scarce as well as upgrades. But at the time the car was "in vogue" there were many aftermarket parts made for it. Especially by 3 Racing. Many of the online shops in the far east still has some parts for the V One but not one shop has it all so you'll have to shop many different suppliers.

I have an RR Evo and it runs great for me in parking lot club races. I run diffs in both front and rear. However, if you're running on a bigger track in faster company, I would consider getting a newer more up to date chassis. It will be easier to drive, easier to maintain and easier to source for parts and upgrades. I'm in that situation right now and I am considering a new chassis and from what I have found, despite the cost, it will be well worth it.
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Old 07-19-2009, 05:29 AM   #13
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Default V1 RR

thanks for that info, i have the V1 RR Evo, exactly how you decribed it w/the chassis,laydown servo ect. i have only raced 1/8 onroad but want to run the 200mm class also, ill do what brian said, run it to the ground to get some wheel time on it(learn the car) then upgrade if i decide to stick to this class. i will try every front end option to see wich works best for the tracks ill be running, i guess ill just concentrate on tires and setup and try to see if i can pick up some upgrades along the way, thanks for the help, if any more info on the v1 rr evo, please let me know, thanks fellas
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Old 07-25-2009, 05:28 AM   #14
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Default V1 RR

i have a question about the shift changer, it fits in the 2nd spur real tight and the spur does not spin free, anyone ever run in to this problem? in my evolva it spins free. please help
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Old 07-25-2009, 01:11 PM   #15
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Are you using the right 2nd gear housing and clutch?
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