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Old 01-10-2004, 02:09 PM   #1
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Default Bulletproof your G4 Steering (How-to)

There's a lot of discussion about the G4's steering as well as steering servos that will fit.

First, I've found that if you just follow the directions in the instructions, you should have no problems. The instructions explicitly say : Please adjust the rail mounts to make the servo saver movement a little bit tight & no excess play. A little bit stress & tightness will make the steering smoother. Strange, but it is true for this system. They're right. Remember, though, this is a pro car and you should be using better than standard servos for the steering or you may have problems.

Second, as far as servos go, some servos won't fit well with the linkage provided, but I've done the following mod to make my Hitec digital servo fit perfectly. It will also work with MANY other servos and is better than the original design, as it is stronger and uses a better geometry (90 degrees). Additionally, it shortens the distance from the connection point on the servo saver to the pivot point on the servo saver. This is what further reduces the twisting (and binding) of the servo saver on the rails. These type rod ends also have less slop than the original ball and cup. The only parts you need are a servo and a set of Traxxas Rod End Ball Screw Connectors: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJJ81&P=7














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Old 01-10-2004, 09:20 PM   #2
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I think the real problem is not in the linkage.It's the servo saver.No matter what digital servo you use the problem is sure to crop up in a matter of time.Some suggest GPM's servo saver with its teflon bushing as the solution.I've yet to try it but I sure do hope a cure.It's a shame for a great car.
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Old 01-10-2004, 10:16 PM   #3
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How is the servo saver the problem with getting servos/linkage to fit?
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Old 01-11-2004, 08:10 AM   #4
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Zizu, where can I find the GPM steering servo saver?
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Old 01-11-2004, 08:16 AM   #5
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When you look at the servo saver's metal sleeves, the shape is not a perfect round and it worn out so quickly thus creating slop in the system which then make the movement stuck or not having full throw. I have replaced mine 2 times already, the original just lasted for 4-6 tanks. As for your idea, it's very good. I myself using Hitec 5925 servo but what i did was mount the ball at the rear side of the horn, but make sure use one of the servo mounting spacer to give it almost parallel linkage. So just as Zizu said the problem is not the linkage but the servo saver.
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Old 01-11-2004, 08:19 AM   #6
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Default GPM sevo saver

Try Rcmart.com
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Old 01-11-2004, 08:33 AM   #7
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Go back and re-read what I wrote. I'm not saying the linkage has anything to do with the steering problem, ONLY the ability to use other servos.

The problem with the servo saver is two-fold:

1. The original connection point of the linkage is a long ways from the center point between the two rails. In a perfect world the connection would be along that centerline. The further out from the centerline you get, the more torque you are putting on the servo saver. That is what is wearing out the servo savers. AND, as Team Magic says, as posted above, you have to adjust the steering to be a little tight for it to work properly. What this "tightness" does is prevent the servo saver from physically twisting on the rails and prematurely wearing out the servo savers. If the steering is set up loosely, there is a lot of "play" in the servo saver which allows it to twist very easily on the rails and causes it to wear out.

2. The linkage angles on the original design are not 90 degrees to the servo saver, therefore you get uneven results from the servo saver.

The above modification helps solve BOTH problems. First, once you have adjusted the steering rails properly, you've fixed a lot of the problem. Second, removing the original ball stud and installing the Traxxas ball screw reduces the distance from the connection point to the centerline of the rails, which reduces the torque on the servo saver. Last, the 90 degree geometry creates even results in both directions from the servo saver.

I predict you will not like the long term results of the GPM servo saver because if you already don't adjust the servo rails correctly, the harder aluminum unit will bind much more quickly when torqued than the original plastic one.

This speculation about a manufacturing problem is a load of BS! The only problem I see out there is an installation/adjustment problem on the part of the owners as well as the people who are throwing out the dust covers, etc.....
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Old 01-11-2004, 08:53 AM   #8
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When I first built the car, I made it tight like the instructions said, but after a while my JR z590 servo wasn't giving me full throw to the right. I removed the servo and moved it back and forth a few times and noticed a binding to side of the throw. All the gears seem to be ok. Admittedly I don't know much about servo repairing anyway. I figured I rather have it a little loose, than to ruin another servo. So now I have a more expensive servo (Airtronics 94538 I think), to speed up the steering.

Dust covers are on and at first I used the oil method. Now I am trying the graphite powder.

However now, When I take the whole front asembly off and use the little ball end to move the wheels, it is tight when turning to the right, the left is loose. No matter how much I try to adjust the rail mounts that right side is tight. I'm not comfortable with that, because I don't want to ruin another servo. I'd rather to buy another servo saver.

So for me its, do I tighten again and save the servo saver and risk a $100 servo or do I make it a little looser and save the servo and then buy another servo saver every few weeks.

That is my dilema. I think this is what RC_Alan and others are saying.
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Old 01-11-2004, 09:06 AM   #9
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If it's tight on one side but not on the other it can't be the servo saver. It's the rails, either out of adjustment or bent. The Aluminum servo saver is only going to magnify that. Until you find out what is wrong with the rails or their alignment your servos are going to be at risk.
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Old 01-11-2004, 09:07 AM   #10
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K mac thanks for elaborating it in more details. I don't have problem with my linkage so i ll try to adjust the steering rail as per instruction. One more thing though do you adjust the rail towards the rear or to the front to get tighten?
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Old 01-11-2004, 09:09 AM   #11
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Adjust towards the front to tighten. It doesn't take a lot, either. When the tension is proper it will take a little effort to move the servo saver back and forth, BUT it should be smooth and not jerky or get progressively tighter. This is why standard servos don't cut it with this steering system.
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Old 01-11-2004, 10:53 AM   #12
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Why not do as we do in the uk and use the Futaba digital S9550?
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Old 01-11-2004, 11:33 AM   #13
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That's a good choice. I'm using the Hitec digital and haven't had any problems in 4 months.
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Old 01-11-2004, 11:48 AM   #14
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9550 is only small!!
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Old 01-11-2004, 01:13 PM   #15
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My steering rails are not bent. I removed both of them and rolled them myself to check. They both roll smoothly. I loosened up both sides of the rail mounts. That way it should be loose enough for it to adjust the rails itself. Like I said before there is a dilemna with this setup. I know I have played with enough cars to figure out how to adjust it for smoother play. It just isn't working as well as it should.

I can't wait to try out those aluminum rail mounts, maybe my rails won't fall out of adjustment when I set them next time.
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