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Old 07-18-2010, 10:33 AM   #271
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has anyone else seen this and tried some fix?
Not on the Shepherd yet but back in my MRX3 days I would drill small holes in just about everything to put little 4-40 set screws in them to remove play. I would put them in the uprights against the bearings as well as arms, hinge pin mounts, etc.
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Old 07-18-2010, 03:43 PM   #272
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Not on the Shepherd yet but back in my MRX3 days I would drill small holes in just about everything to put little 4-40 set screws in them to remove play. I would put them in the uprights against the bearings as well as arms, hinge pin mounts, etc.
ouch, that sounds tedious. i have this aluminized mylar tape which is very thin. i got it from someone that works HVAC. i had to add 1 full layer on the outside of the eccentric to take up the slop between the eccentric and the upright. i also added 1 small stripe between the bearing and axle. this is 2mm out of the whole circumference.

the only concern is how it will hold up. this tape works great for reinforcing the inside of the body shells.
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Old 07-18-2010, 03:49 PM   #273
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Not on the Shepherd yet but back in my MRX3 days I would drill small holes in just about everything to put little 4-40 set screws in them to remove play. I would put them in the uprights against the bearings as well as arms, hinge pin mounts, etc.
Good idea so Ive just drilled 1 hole in each hub to correspond with the outer eccentric and put setscrews in gently until it just touces the eccentric, this seems to have had the desired effect and has removed the play.
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Old 07-18-2010, 06:01 PM   #274
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Good idea so Ive just drilled 1 hole in each hub to correspond with the outer eccentric and put setscrews in gently until it just touces the eccentric, this seems to have had the desired effect and has removed the play.
Yeah it works great and isn't all that hard to do, though I'm liking the thought of AVS's tape.
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Old 07-18-2010, 07:27 PM   #275
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Yeah it works great and isn't all that hard to do, though I'm liking the thought of AVS's tape.
i can see how a grub screw would work fine for the upright/bearing interface, just 1 foraft and 1 updown should do the trick, but i see freeplay between the bearing ID and axle as well as the upright/eccentric OD.

i am starting rethink this eccentric business, maybe a larger stouter bearing with only 2 freeplay sources is better than a smaller bearing and eccentric with 3 freeplay sources.

i intend to try the tape job next weekend, but will be prepared to switch back to the standard bearings
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Old 07-19-2010, 08:25 PM   #276
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hopefully this is my last(doubtful but polite) question. i am putting the rear end cefx pieces on now, and noted that in your recent steups you had 8mm rear droop, and most recently you used 7mm. with the front shock rod and body this needs 2mm or more of shock rod thread showing.

for the nationals, did you run with that much thread showing? it seems that with the euro shock mount, the rear shock rod works better. or am i missing something? maybe you use a longer rod end part?

thanks again for your help, my club will be racing next weekend, after a 4 week lull, so i am finally putting in all the '09 updates, cefx parts etc.
Hello,

I was running 7mm droop to help with braking stability.

I always run the stock rod ends threaded to the point that no threads are showing.

Josh can confirm this, I believe the CEFX rear shock tower was designed around the Euro mount and the front shock parts.

Hope this helps.
Let me know how your club race goes,
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Old 07-30-2010, 09:10 PM   #277
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I just ran witht he stock pulleys and the front 16T pulley tunrned "oval-shaped". Made the front belt skip and give all sorts of chatters. Why did this pully deform? was my front belt tension too tight? I was running for an 1hour. hope the pulley was just bad luck...got a major race tomoro
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Old 07-30-2010, 09:25 PM   #278
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I just ran witht he stock pulleys and the front 16T pulley tunrned "oval-shaped". Made the front belt skip and give all sorts of chatters. Why did this pully deform? was my front belt tension too tight? I was running for an 1hour. hope the pulley was just bad luck...got a major race tomoro
I have heard that the old pulleys had that problem. I use an aluminum 16 tooth pulley.
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Old 07-30-2010, 09:31 PM   #279
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So its a 'cheap' material thats making the pulleys deform? Thats really sad. Will stock up on these pulleys, until i can get the upgrade to the aluminium pulleys. is the 2010 edition pulleys have this problem too?

the front driveshaft 'locked up' as well, but i didnt see what was binding the shaft. Was the steering angle too much? as i took it apart the grub screw holding the drive pin was missing, any problems if i leave it out?
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Old 07-30-2010, 09:42 PM   #280
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I just ran witht he stock pulleys and the front 16T pulley tunrned "oval-shaped". Made the front belt skip and give all sorts of chatters. Why did this pully deform? was my front belt tension too tight? I was running for an 1hour. hope the pulley was just bad luck...got a major race tomoro
what tire diameter did you finish with?

for me, i have found the front belt to be very reliable, but i have been running with 7mm or more split. in the past, i had much higher wear on the front belt, but that was with less split (more overdrive with other cars) which is part of the reason.

with the shepherd i am using a step softer front tire like, 37 front , 40 rear. this helps maintain the split. if i use 40/40 then the fronts will outlast the rears and end up with more overdrive which does load the front belt.

like wingracer, i have prefered alloy pulleys, especially the rear 18 tooth on the 2speed shaft which has always picked up a lot of junk from the engine. a nice feature is the holes in the pulley sidewalls which let the gunk out. i just switched to the new '09 velox pulleys which are the first plastic pulleys i have seen which have these vents. i haven't run them enough to compare to alloy pulleys but i am hopeful.
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Old 07-30-2010, 09:52 PM   #281
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I didnt see any dirt or thrash collect on the 18T pulley. I started with 37F/37R, I'll try a different setup for the tyres and see how much will they wear out after an hour of race laps. I'm practicing for the mains tomoro so i hope i can work out these bugs by this afternoon.
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Old 07-30-2010, 09:57 PM   #282
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The new pulleys are excellent, no problem with them except they don't yet have rubber belts for the larger (18/27) front pulley set-up. You don't need all aluminum pulleys, just the 16 tooth.
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Old 07-30-2010, 09:57 PM   #283
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and a lot of play developed in the front uprights. enough for me to tighten up the nylon nuts and still see the bearings just moving around in the uprights. I'm not so sure how will this affect the car's handling. At the moment, i'm very satisfied with the speed but disappointed with the slop and the weak pulleys.
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Old 07-30-2010, 10:54 PM   #284
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and a lot of play developed in the front uprights. enough for me to tighten up the nylon nuts and still see the bearings just moving around in the uprights. I'm not so sure how will this affect the car's handling. At the moment, i'm very satisfied with the speed but disappointed with the slop and the weak pulleys.
bro..u can ask hj mazlan for the pulley since he use mugen part on his velox..
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Old 07-31-2010, 07:48 AM   #285
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The new pulleys are excellent, no problem with them except they don't yet have rubber belts for the larger (18/27) front pulley set-up. You don't need all aluminum pulleys, just the 16 tooth.
what do you mean by 'rubber belt', is that the low friction optional type?

there is a new belt, which by the way seems almost too long, it started with the midshaft adjusted max aft and it still had play.
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