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Old 07-09-2010, 07:52 PM   #256
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Hi Mark,

thanks for the offer, are you using the CEFX radio plate? if so, how long is the link you have from the horn to servo-saver?

i assume this setup all fits nicely with a ko servo, using the dimensions for a ko servo. i end up with a 22mm(center to center) long link. does this sound correct?

i am using the original shepherd servo saver and steering servo posts.
Tony,

Attached is a picture of my setup.

I use the following:
KO servo
Team C alum servo saver
Racers Edge Alum servo arm

My linkage length is 25.3mm

You may need to use your subtrim on your radio to fine tune the horn angle.

Let me know how that works for you. I am off racing this weekend, so I am not get back to you until Monday.

Mark
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Shepherd V8 '09-linkage.jpg  
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Old 07-09-2010, 08:18 PM   #257
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hey guys..... i like to make a couple of questions about this body.

-when you tested the body what was the distance between the front of the body and the bumper?

-what was the diference that you feel between r09 and p909??

thanks

Gabriel
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Old 07-09-2010, 08:20 PM   #258
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with the 909, I run it about 20mm but I seem to like a bit more high speed steering than some. I think most are running it about 18mm.
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Old 07-10-2010, 07:11 AM   #259
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with the 909, I run it about 20mm but I seem to like a bit more high speed steering than some. I think most are running it about 18mm.
with the 909 so much front; wont the tires be rubbing on the body (rear of the wheel arch) during turning?
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Old 07-10-2010, 07:28 AM   #260
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with the 909 so much front; wont the tires be rubbing on the body (rear of the wheel arch) during turning?
At 20, I did notice just the tiniest of little rub spots through the paint on big tires but it wasn't much. Having the rear jacked up way in the air gives some more clearance. It would probably be bad if you went any more forward.
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Old 07-12-2010, 07:41 AM   #261
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Tony,

Attached is a picture of my setup.

I use the following:
KO servo
Team C alum servo saver
Racers Edge Alum servo arm

My linkage length is 25.3mm

You may need to use your subtrim on your radio to fine tune the horn angle.

Let me know how that works for you. I am off racing this weekend, so I am not get back to you until Monday.

Mark
Thanks Mark, that did help confirm the situation.

the airtronics servo locates the servo horn at a 1.5mm more fwd position, and i was using the rear location for the servo saver post. the 3mm+ tighter geometry and things got touchy. i drilled a 2nd hole for the fwd location 2mm back.

i found a new (well new to me) method to get the link length set. i usually try to eyeball the horn and link to get them perpendicular at center. instead i measured the maximum throw at the outside wheel and adjust the link to get both sides even. (for me that was 16degrees on the outside wheel with the servosaver max horn length and aft post position.)

getting the even throw was a very sensitive measurement, 1mm of link length would yield a 2degree difference in max throw. this was much easier to see than the link/horn angle.

can't wait try it out at our next race. thanks again for the help.
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Old 07-12-2010, 07:29 PM   #262
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Thanks Mark, that did help confirm the situation.

the airtronics servo locates the servo horn at a 1.5mm more fwd position, and i was using the rear location for the servo saver post. the 3mm+ tighter geometry and things got touchy. i drilled a 2nd hole for the fwd location 2mm back.

i found a new (well new to me) method to get the link length set. i usually try to eyeball the horn and link to get them perpendicular at center. instead i measured the maximum throw at the outside wheel and adjust the link to get both sides even. (for me that was 16degrees on the outside wheel with the servosaver max horn length and aft post position.)

getting the even throw was a very sensitive measurement, 1mm of link length would yield a 2degree difference in max throw. this was much easier to see than the link/horn angle.

can't wait try it out at our next race. thanks again for the help.
Tony,
Let me know how it works for you.
Mark
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Old 07-12-2010, 07:47 PM   #263
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Hello,
Attached is my setup from the Midwest Series race in Portage, IN.

We raced on a parking lot that was smooth, semi tight, good traction but had high tire wear.

Qualified 4th
Finished 1st A Main.

If you have any question,please ask.
Mark Sweeney
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File Type: pdf Mark Sweeney Portage MWS.pdf (391.8 KB, 214 views)
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Old 07-16-2010, 08:44 AM   #264
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With the aluminium eccentrics fitted so the bearings are low in uprights do you change anything with the geometry ? eg should you increase the droop settings ?
Also I seem to have more slop in the front axles between the small bearings and the eccentric is this normal experience ? seems a lot more than running without the eccentrics on the large bearings.
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Old 07-16-2010, 08:46 AM   #265
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Also I seem to have more slop in the front axles between the small bearings and the eccentric is this normal experience ? seems a lot more than running without the eccentrics on the large bearings.
I have noticed that quite a lot of slop develops in the bearings themselves. I am thinking about trying a different bearing to see if it helps but haven't got them yet.
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Old 07-17-2010, 10:35 AM   #266
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Can someone help me with the wiring arrangement on the Velox V8? I'm currently using a futaba FAST receiver, savox servos and a direct plug to the receiver battery. I think my arrangement of the bundling of the wires, antenna wire etc is too messy.
Without doing any custom surgery to the servo leads, can the good people from the Shepherd team show me how they arrange the wires? Can someone post some photos? I'm looking for something that can be disassembled easily but still looking compact.

The Shepherd receiver box is not in my LHS yet, but i'd sure like to try one from the Kyosho VOne RRR which I think can fit.

The big race for me is coming soon.
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Old 07-17-2010, 11:06 AM   #267
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I would but my wiring looks terrible too.
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Old 07-17-2010, 04:54 PM   #268
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Can someone help me with the wiring arrangement on the Velox V8? I'm currently using a futaba FAST receiver, savox servos and a direct plug to the receiver battery. I think my arrangement of the bundling of the wires, antenna wire etc is too messy.
Without doing any custom surgery to the servo leads, can the good people from the Shepherd team show me how they arrange the wires? Can someone post some photos? I'm looking for something that can be disassembled easily but still looking compact.

The Shepherd receiver box is not in my LHS yet, but i'd sure like to try one from the Kyosho VOne RRR which I think can fit.

The big race for me is coming soon.
i am in the middle of a major overhaul, so no picture. but what i do is route the wire behind the receiver and loop around from the aft side of the receiver. i also use bicycle inner tube cut into 10-15 mm wide rubber bands. myself, i like to use the road race size 25mm tubes which are lightweight, one old tube is good for many years. i keep a length in my pit box and cut off a piece as i need it. i tend to use 3 of these are wrapped around the receiver and over the top and one covering the servo connectors plugged into the reciever, and the other two as security to hold the receiver on its mount and hold the wire snugly

for a similiar arrangement, check out Josh Cyrul's car in an earlier post in this thread, posts 20 and 21.

i don't like to beat up the receiver with the battery plug, so i use a servo extention with the female part servo taped to the steering servo. most brands only make a 6" length minimum, but JR has a 3" length with high quality (gold) pins.
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Old 07-17-2010, 05:00 PM   #269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MJSGas View Post
Hello,
Attached is my setup from the Midwest Series race in Portage, IN.

We raced on a parking lot that was smooth, semi tight, good traction but had high tire wear.

Qualified 4th
Finished 1st A Main.

If you have any question,please ask.
Mark Sweeney
hopefully this is my last(doubtful but polite) question. i am putting the rear end cefx pieces on now, and noted that in your recent steups you had 8mm rear droop, and most recently you used 7mm. with the front shock rod and body this needs 2mm or more of shock rod thread showing.

for the nationals, did you run with that much thread showing? it seems that with the euro shock mount, the rear shock rod works better. or am i missing something? maybe you use a longer rod end part?

thanks again for your help, my club will be racing next weekend, after a 4 week lull, so i am finally putting in all the '09 updates, cefx parts etc.
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Old 07-18-2010, 10:15 AM   #270
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eigthracer View Post
With the aluminium eccentrics fitted so the bearings are low in uprights do you change anything with the geometry ? eg should you increase the droop settings ?
Also I seem to have more slop in the front axles between the small bearings and the eccentric is this normal experience ? seems a lot more than running without the eccentrics on the large bearings.
i just installed the 'hard' plastic parts and used the eccentrics in the rear. there is more axial play that can resolved by adding a shim. i put it on the inside next to the retainer circlip. but i also notice a fair amount of radial play between the eccentric and the upright, not so much between the bearing and eccentric.

i have yet to compare a full size bearing and the eccentric outer dimensions. but either way i intend to add some kind of shim to remove radial play. i was going to experiment with some thin aluminum tape or maybe superglue some very thin shim material.

has anyone else seen this and tried some fix?
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