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Old 01-08-2004, 05:13 AM   #1
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I am a complete noobie to the world of r/c cars and i am in need of some help with choosing a car. I have been looking at the kyosho pureten alpha 3 which here in the uk is 200. I like that fact that it is a ready set but do these have downfalls? Has anyone got any views on this car? I am completley open to suggestions but have a budget of around 250?

Your help is greatly appriciated!
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Old 01-08-2004, 04:16 PM   #2
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anyone?
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Old 01-09-2004, 04:46 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally posted by biggy_j
anyone?
If you want to have an easy start in RC without going nuts about not-so-technical things... i would suggest you go for KYOSHO or YOKOMO. Take the RTR (ready-to-run) version if you really really a rookie.
Then you can upgrade your car bit by bit. Definitely you will upgrade it coz you will BASH and BROKE your first car and take the opportunity to upgrade the parts to a stronger and lighter parts....

same goes to the engine. RTR version of cars usually comes with slower engine, when you feel that you can handle higher speed and have a better driving skill, then upgrade your engine to a better one.

ALWAYS... i say it again.... ALWAYS refer to your LHS (LOCAL HOBBY STORE) for these things coz they know what are the things available in your place and they also can provide all the necessary technical support to you!

HAPPY RACING TO YOU!

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Old 01-09-2004, 06:59 PM   #4
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If ur LHS is having support on kyosho, u may consider getting a V1S2. It is a very good car and have came with engin and pipe, u only need to get a radio and some tools for it... good luck.
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Old 01-12-2004, 01:33 AM   #5
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thanks guys!

I bought the koysho RTR alpha 3, but i am having problems with keeping it running. It just keeps cutting out? The first time it stalled, the pull cord got stuck so i took the glow plug out and it freed it. Now it just stalls unless i have the 'Choke' on about half way? Any suggestions?
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Old 01-12-2004, 08:04 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally posted by biggy_j
thanks guys!

I bought the koysho RTR alpha 3, but i am having problems with keeping it running. It just keeps cutting out? The first time it stalled, the pull cord got stuck so i took the glow plug out and it freed it. Now it just stalls unless i have the 'Choke' on about half way? Any suggestions?
'choke' ?

can you explain more about that?

If you use pull starter.... first thing you [should not do is PULL IT AS LONG AS YOU CAN.... dont pull the string until the end of it.... that is what you get... it got stucked!!!

Maybe right now you are doing the ENGINE RUN IN. Maybe you do a search in rctech on RUN IN engine. If your manual tells you how to ... just follow exactly what it says.

First try to explain your 'choke' so that i can visualised it....

What % your NITRO?

Have you ever touched or turned ALL THE NEEDLE (SCREWS) on your engines? If yes please find a website that tells you about FACTORY SETTING of your engine and follow the guideline again and try to start your engine again.

mop
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Old 01-12-2004, 08:19 AM   #7
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by choke i mean the little knob next to the throttle on the hand control.

i havent touched anything just put the fuel in (my local hs gave me this and called it running in fuel?) and pumped the fuel 3 times, then pulled the starter cord about 2.3 inches 5 times, then put the glow plug charger in and with the 'Choke' about half way up pulled the starter cord a few times until it started. It ran for a few minutes then cut out, this is when the cord got stuck. I can get it to run but as i say i have to have the 'choke' up about half way for it to run. I have noticed alot of spitting of fuel from the exhaust. is this normal?

Thanks again for your help!
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Old 01-12-2004, 11:48 AM   #8
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I think that little knob next to the throttle on the hand control you are talking about is your throttle trim,,, not a choke. The throttle trim will adjust the carb opening at a idle but only when you are NOT on the brake. That's a total different story and I won't go there now.

The spitting of fuel is normal because the manufacturer has set your engine to run very rich for the break-in process. Sometimes, however, they set it too rich and the engine won't run. You need to lean the fuel mixture a tiny bit. Start by turning your high end needle clockwise about 1/8 of a turn. If it's easier for you, think about the hands on a clock. Now, as a example, go from a 1:00 position to a 2:00 position. This will lean the fuel mixture and help you keep the engine running.

Good Luck.
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Old 01-13-2004, 04:47 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally posted by The Sleeper
The spitting of fuel is normal because the manufacturer has set your engine to run very rich for the break-in process. Sometimes, however, they set it too rich and the engine won't run. You need to lean the fuel mixture a tiny bit. Start by turning your high end needle clockwise about 1/8 of a turn. If it's easier for you, think about the hands on a clock. Now, as a example, go from a 1:00 position to a 2:00 position. This will lean the fuel mixture and help you keep the engine running.
Good Luck.
It is easier to go to your LHS and ask him to break in the engine for you.... WITH YOU AROUND.... usually that will take 1 day process.... with that you can have ON HAND EXPERIENCE with the LHS and your friendship with him grew and next time you wanna discounts he cant ignore it!!

i can explain all the technical things about the engine run-in but it will leave you floating on the air... these things you can search actually in the web... but THEORY is not enough... ask your LHS and GET YOUR HAND DIRTY in the RIGHT WAY.... not the wrong way.


i'll try to post some links for you regarding engine break in and the needle adjustment for your THEORY understanding .... but dont do it yourself before you learn from LHS.


mop
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Old 01-13-2004, 04:59 AM   #10
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Exclamation LINKS LINKS LINKS

here is the link to break in your engine.

here is the link to get to know the needle in your engine. This one for reference only.... FYI.

here is the link about glow plugs.... FYI also.

here is the link on how to SETUP your car...(maybe this link is out of your topic at the moment.... but hey... at least i put some link for your next step....after the break in)..

here is the link to a cool website.... as if it is a ONE STOP info counter. Try go here!

thats is dude... hope you will print out and read ALL of those links... and gain more knowledge out of it... and get your hands dirty the right way!

HAPPY RACING!

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Old 01-14-2004, 02:00 AM   #11
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thanks alot guys! cant beleive how helpful you have been! I am going to go to my LHS at the weekend. Just a quick question though, i can get my car running better with the advice given above but when i apply the brakes, the engine cuts out? Am i doing something wrong?
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Old 01-14-2004, 03:23 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally posted by biggy_j
thanks alot guys! cant beleive how helpful you have been! I am going to go to my LHS at the weekend. Just a quick question though, i can get my car running better with the advice given above but when i apply the brakes, the engine cuts out? Am i doing something wrong?
More idle rpms. Start your engine let it get up to 180- 200F Then set your idle screw for a nice low rpm and adjust from there with your radio endpoint adj. if you are still having problems you might need a hotter glowplug. When breaking in a New engine the glowplug goes thru alot of abuse so it is always good to change it. I am not familar with your rtr but if it is a .12 or .15 smallblock they need a Hot Plug to run well. Ask your LHS for them. The upside of hotter plugs are better engine performance the downside is shorter plug life. Good luck and when in Doubt always ask these are great people to look towards for info in here!
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