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Old 07-23-2009, 02:55 AM   #391
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On the other hand I have a tip for those of you that have lost an outdrive from your spools.

Please see the setscrews in the spool and notice that I ground the edges so they follow the profile of the spool body.

The tips of the setscrews that hold the outdrives in place were cut from 6mm long setscrews. You just shave off a bit at the tip to allow the hex in the other end to stick out barely. Then just grind a bit off the rim and have your bearings hold the setscrews tightly in place.

If you do this with all your 4 setscrews then you will never loose one again...

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Old 07-23-2009, 03:08 AM   #392
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One last item from me tonight.

If you feel like Impalabob and myself that the stock clutch is not strong enough, then just screw in a 3X3mm setscrew at the far hole of each flyweight.

This will induce more centrifugal force when the clutch is revolving and you will get all the kick you need from your box stock clutch.

I got to this conclusion because I was either confronted by early engage or bad slip when adjusting my clutch today and could not get to a comfortable point in-between.

It was kind of frustrating to start with, but with the added weight I got to a point that I can adjust the clutch at will and get all the desirable force from it.

The spring is longer than previous G4´s. That makes it difficult to compress if using a large gap, like .6mm or more. The problem I had is that at .5mm or less the clutch engaged too early and gave me a poor kick-off.

I feel that after the mod my clutch engages just fine and allows setting at large gaps for high-rev engagement with no slip...
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Old 07-23-2009, 04:09 AM   #393
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtrmx View Post
Hi guys,

I am looking for a piece of advise here...

Please take a look at the vertical lines on the diff cover...


http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/2204/hpim0641h.jpg

Those are cracks that have not torn apart yet, but I am afraid they can.

Back when I used my RRR I had to tighten up my diffs at a point that is very close to what you see in the picture, warpage of the cover included. It was the only way to stop leaking diff silicon.

But with the G4RS 09, that seemed to be too much. Now I do not know how to stop my leak problem, and I need to use new parts if it ends up being I do not have to tighten up so far.

Please tell me how you have used yours, as I have not seen one negative comment or bad experience with your diffs...
I know in the nt1 diffs it's a good idea to put a bead of loctite gasket maker between the diff halves because they only seal with a very thin o ring and only fill the oil up so it only just covers the small spider gears and then they don't leak. Do the new diffs seal the same way as the older type with a big gasket?
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Old 07-23-2009, 04:55 AM   #394
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freestyles View Post
I know in the nt1 diffs it's a good idea to put a bead of loctite gasket maker between the diff halves because they only seal with a very thin o ring and only fill the oil up so it only just covers the small spider gears and then they don't leak. Do the new diffs seal the same way as the older type with a big gasket?
They use the thin o-ring.

I loved the big gasket that used to come with the diffs but it is gone now.

Thanks for the tip! It sounds tricky but I may have to give it a try...
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Old 07-23-2009, 06:36 AM   #395
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtrmx View Post
One last item from me tonight.

If you feel like Impalabob and myself that the stock clutch is not strong enough, then just screw in a 3X3mm setscrew at the far hole of each flyweight.

This will induce more centrifugal force when the clutch is revolving and you will get all the kick you need from your box stock clutch.

I got to this conclusion because I was either confronted by early engage or bad slip when adjusting my clutch today and could not get to a comfortable point in-between.

It was kind of frustrating to start with, but with the added weight I got to a point that I can adjust the clutch at will and get all the desirable force from it.

The spring is longer than previous G4´s. That makes it difficult to compress if using a large gap, like .6mm or more. The problem I had is that at .5mm or less the clutch engaged too early and gave me a poor kick-off.

I feel that after the mod my clutch engages just fine and allows setting at large gaps for high-rev engagement with no slip...
+1 I did this and it works a treat. Especially if your track has a bit of grip.

...Ari
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Old 07-23-2009, 06:46 AM   #396
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freestyles View Post
I know in the nt1 diffs it's a good idea to put a bead of loctite gasket maker between the diff halves because they only seal with a very thin o ring and only fill the oil up so it only just covers the small spider gears and then they don't leak. Do the new diffs seal the same way as the older type with a big gasket?
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtrmx View Post
Hi guys,

I am looking for a piece of advise here...

Please take a look at the vertical lines on the diff cover...


http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/2204/hpim0641h.jpg

Those are cracks that have not torn apart yet, but I am afraid they can.

Back when I used my RRR I had to tighten up my diffs at a point that is very close to what you see in the picture, warpage of the cover included. It was the only way to stop leaking diff silicon.

But with the G4RS 09, that seemed to be too much. Now I do not know how to stop my leak problem, and I need to use new parts if it ends up being I do not have to tighten up so far.

Please tell me how you have used yours, as I have not seen one negative comment or bad experience with your diffs...
I had the same issue with mine, BUT when i was building the kit i used 3mm screws instead of the 2.5mm that you are supposed too...

Check your screws. I ended up putting the 2.5mm screws in with the cracked housing, no issues what so ever (one of the holes were stripped too). I will replace it soon just in case.

...Ari
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Old 07-23-2009, 08:10 AM   #397
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Default I checked

I didnt have that problem, i just went over the car didnt see any stress lines. Here are better pics of my car with Picco EVO3 & my new body, those are setup wheels on the car.
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Team Magic G4RS 2009-picture-128.jpg   Team Magic G4RS 2009-picture-130.jpg  
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Old 07-23-2009, 08:16 AM   #398
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Default Another 1

Here im also using the Xray clutch. This weekend i will be post a small video of the car in action with the Picco.
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Old 07-23-2009, 08:19 AM   #399
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How's the car going? Its worth buying? The cracked diff case common?
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Old 07-23-2009, 08:26 AM   #400
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Thumbs up The car is good.

Just be careful when tighting the diff screws,they are really small also make sure you put in the right size screws, or find screws that fit to your liking.As some racers done.
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Old 07-23-2009, 09:15 AM   #401
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Balestri's car at the Gubio Euro Challenge 2009



more pics here


Interesting to see that everybody is doing that 'cut' on the front bumper.
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Old 07-23-2009, 10:12 AM   #402
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Hope he successfully defends his title with the new G4RS 09 . But it looks like there's some stiff competition...
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Old 07-23-2009, 01:34 PM   #403
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PrimeAKF11 View Post
Hope he successfully defends his title with the new G4RS 09 . But it looks like there's some stiff competition...
According to Red Rc News

"After being somewhat off the pace, defending champion Dario Balestri
(15.950) has got it together topping the last controlled practice here in Gubbio. The Italian had struggled in the opening four sessions but reverting back to his set-up from yesterday he was able to take his Novarossi powered Team Magic G4RS 2009 around the track in a sub lap record time.
Running 37 shore tyres all round, Balestri said the car was now very good and he can look forward to tomorrow’s qualifiers....... "
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Old 07-23-2009, 02:39 PM   #404
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Default Todays Standings

1.G4RS 09 -15.950
2.X-Ray NT1-15.957
3.X-Ray Nt1-16.000
4.S733-16.049
5.X-Ray Nt1-16.065
6.S733-16.091
7.Mugen MTX4R-16.129
These are the 7 fastest cars of the todays Practice Session
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Old 07-23-2009, 03:06 PM   #405
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Originally Posted by aizenbelle View Post
My car is 1741 with my regular setup which includes 2 1015 acer metal servos full tank, full size wheels and heavy body shell. I can easily bring it down below 1700g specially because the body that I weighted has over 4OZ of paint
Don't check the weight while having a full tank, after the race is over you'll probably be near empty.
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