Serpent 705 Questions.
#1
Serpent 705 Questions.
I have just gotten my hands on a serpent 705 and have just ran it for the first time today bit have a few questions about the car.
1. I have found it hard to dial in -3deg of camber on the rear of the 705 because the drive shafts are to short to wind out the ball screws that far. Anyone else had this problem?
2. Also i am finding it hard to wind down the collars far enough on the shocks to get the car nice and low. I havew to wind the collar almost right down the shock body just to get tension on the springs.
3. Last thing. The car is very difficult to brake at high speeds. Because of the one way it basically just comes arounf on its self when u brake at high speeds? Anyone found how to over come this or is this just something o learn to deal with with a 1way?
1. I have found it hard to dial in -3deg of camber on the rear of the 705 because the drive shafts are to short to wind out the ball screws that far. Anyone else had this problem?
2. Also i am finding it hard to wind down the collars far enough on the shocks to get the car nice and low. I havew to wind the collar almost right down the shock body just to get tension on the springs.
3. Last thing. The car is very difficult to brake at high speeds. Because of the one way it basically just comes arounf on its self when u brake at high speeds? Anyone found how to over come this or is this just something o learn to deal with with a 1way?
#2
Re: Serpent 705 Questions.
Originally posted by bleach1
I have just gotten my hands on a serpent 705 and have just ran it for the first time today bit have a few questions about the car.
1. I have found it hard to dial in -3deg of camber on the rear of the 705 because the drive shafts are to short to wind out the ball screws that far. Anyone else had this problem?
I have just gotten my hands on a serpent 705 and have just ran it for the first time today bit have a few questions about the car.
1. I have found it hard to dial in -3deg of camber on the rear of the 705 because the drive shafts are to short to wind out the ball screws that far. Anyone else had this problem?
2. Also i am finding it hard to wind down the collars far enough on the shocks to get the car nice and low. I havew to wind the collar almost right down the shock body just to get tension on the springs.
The collar should only be used to adjust ride height. Do not pretension the springs with them! I think you better check your upstop/downstop screws first before adjusting anything (I am assuming the car you bought was already built).
3. Last thing. The car is very difficult to brake at high speeds. Because of the one way it basically just comes arounf on its self when u brake at high speeds? Anyone found how to over come this or is this just something o learn to deal with with a 1way?
People will tell you the 705 is not the easiest car to get hooked up but if you keep trying with this car for 6 months, you'll learn so much about setting up a car that no one or book will be able to teach more. Trust me!
One more thing, forget using rubbers on the 705, use foams.
#3
Re: Serpent 705 Questions.
Originally posted by bleach1
I have just gotten my hands on a serpent 705 and have just ran it for the first time today bit have a few questions about the car.
1. I have found it hard to dial in -3deg of camber on the rear of the 705 because the drive shafts are to short to wind out the ball screws that far. Anyone else had this problem?
2. Also i am finding it hard to wind down the collars far enough on the shocks to get the car nice and low. I havew to wind the collar almost right down the shock body just to get tension on the springs.
3. Last thing. The car is very difficult to brake at high speeds. Because of the one way it basically just comes arounf on its self when u brake at high speeds? Anyone found how to over come this or is this just something o learn to deal with with a 1way?
I have just gotten my hands on a serpent 705 and have just ran it for the first time today bit have a few questions about the car.
1. I have found it hard to dial in -3deg of camber on the rear of the 705 because the drive shafts are to short to wind out the ball screws that far. Anyone else had this problem?
2. Also i am finding it hard to wind down the collars far enough on the shocks to get the car nice and low. I havew to wind the collar almost right down the shock body just to get tension on the springs.
3. Last thing. The car is very difficult to brake at high speeds. Because of the one way it basically just comes arounf on its self when u brake at high speeds? Anyone found how to over come this or is this just something o learn to deal with with a 1way?
Yuo should be able to run -4deg to -4.5deg without the dog bones coming out but you will have to shorten the wheel drives to keep the rear track under 200mm.
The car should be able to brake at speed in a straight line but will step out at low speed when you start to turn, check that the rear droop is set equal, as the weight transfers forward when braking one wheel may be un-weighting causing the car to turn around. The one-way only allows drive of the front wheels no braking.
Good Luck!!
#4
#5
Originally posted by EVOLUTION
There is a serpent 705 thread !
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...&goto=lastpost
There is a serpent 705 thread !
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...&goto=lastpost
#6
Originally posted by InitialD
I almost forgot it existed !
I almost forgot it existed !
#7
Re: Re: Serpent 705 Questions.
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
People will tell you the 705 is not the easiest car to get hooked up but if you keep trying with this car for 6 months, you'll learn so much about setting up a car that no one or book will be able to teach more. Trust me!
People will tell you the 705 is not the easiest car to get hooked up but if you keep trying with this car for 6 months, you'll learn so much about setting up a car that no one or book will be able to teach more. Trust me!
#8
Re: Serpent 705 Questions.
Originally posted by bleach1
1. I have found it hard to dial in -3deg of camber on the rear of the 705 because the drive shafts are to short to wind out the ball screws that far. Anyone else had this problem?
1. I have found it hard to dial in -3deg of camber on the rear of the 705 because the drive shafts are to short to wind out the ball screws that far. Anyone else had this problem?
The stock aluminum rear wheel hex adaptors are 11 mm wide. Serpent came out with optional ones that are 8 mm and 9 mm wide in one part number (801319) and 10 mm wide ones (801318) to keep the rear trackwidth to below 200 mm when using more than -3 camber in the rear.
I find that narowing the rear trackwidth had quite big impact to the car's handling and the car comes alive and more agile.
Originally posted by bleach1
2. Also i am finding it hard to wind down the collars far enough on the shocks to get the car nice and low. I havew to wind the collar almost right down the shock body just to get tension on the springs.
2. Also i am finding it hard to wind down the collars far enough on the shocks to get the car nice and low. I havew to wind the collar almost right down the shock body just to get tension on the springs.
Perhaps one other thing is your shocks were built too long. I believe the shock lengths should be 67.5 mm for the front and 76.5 mm in the rear (same as for the 710) in the extended and fully locked position. Please refer to the manual.
Originally posted by bleach1
3. Last thing. The car is very difficult to brake at high speeds. Because of the one way it basically just comes arounf on its self when u brake at high speeds? Anyone found how to over come this or is this just something o learn to deal with with a 1way?
3. Last thing. The car is very difficult to brake at high speeds. Because of the one way it basically just comes arounf on its self when u brake at high speeds? Anyone found how to over come this or is this just something o learn to deal with with a 1way?
Like Pacman25 and Sow&Steady mentioned, the car must be tweaked free. This is not just for the 705 but with all cars equipped with a front one way. I have posted some steps to ensure that the car is not tweaked. First step is to check if the shocks are in equal lenght left and right. Second is make sure the chassis is flat and tweak free. Thirdly, the shock collars should be turned down equally for left and right. Fourth, the tire diameters left and right (in the front or in the rear) should be the same.
To aid in checking tweak after all the above is done, get yourself a tweakstation.
#9
Re: Re: Serpent 705 Questions.
Originally posted by Pacman25
Yuo should be able to run -4deg to -4.5deg without the dog bones coming out but you will have to shorten the wheel drives to keep the rear track under 200mm.
Yuo should be able to run -4deg to -4.5deg without the dog bones coming out but you will have to shorten the wheel drives to keep the rear track under 200mm.
I got the idea from the 950 adjustable rear upper arms. Once I cut them into half, I connect the two parts via a long grub screw. I have attached a pic here. I also mentioned this and posted this same pic on the 705 thread which I forgot it existed !
#10
Re: Re: Re: Serpent 705 Questions.
Originally posted by InitialD
You seem to know the Serpent car like you've been ages with it !
You seem to know the Serpent car like you've been ages with it !
#11
Tech Regular
I found out that there is tweak at the chasis on my 705... yet I managed to brake at 100% without spinning out...
What I found very important during set up is to make sure the left/right droop set evenly, then use a hex driver to stick it up under the front bottom chasis (that little point at the front) you should see both front wheels lift up AT THE SAME TIME, if left goes up first, then lengthen the RIGHT shock collar at the rear. Do the same thing on the rear....
Do this, and you can break hard even with a tweaked chasis
Anyway, breaking while turning is a no no!
Please correct me if I am wrong...
What I found very important during set up is to make sure the left/right droop set evenly, then use a hex driver to stick it up under the front bottom chasis (that little point at the front) you should see both front wheels lift up AT THE SAME TIME, if left goes up first, then lengthen the RIGHT shock collar at the rear. Do the same thing on the rear....
Do this, and you can break hard even with a tweaked chasis
Anyway, breaking while turning is a no no!
Please correct me if I am wrong...
#12
Re: Re: Re: Re: Serpent 705 Questions.
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Ahem ... been with Serpents since the Impulse Streetspec!
Ahem ... been with Serpents since the Impulse Streetspec!
#13
Originally posted by lawndoggie
Do this, and you can break hard even with a tweaked chasis
Do this, and you can break hard even with a tweaked chasis
Originally posted by lawndoggie
Anyway, breaking while turning is a no no!
Please correct me if I am wrong...
Anyway, breaking while turning is a no no!
Please correct me if I am wrong...
#14
Tech Regular
Originally posted by InitialD
Well, you can. Just don't make the rear wheels lock. With a little practise, turning while braking with a one way front can give you tremendously fast and sharp turn in.
Well, you can. Just don't make the rear wheels lock. With a little practise, turning while braking with a one way front can give you tremendously fast and sharp turn in.
In fact I was sooo desperate of playing my 705 I even tried using a left steering block on the right just to see my car move on the track..... (ran out of left steering block) strange I think the car was handling better
#15
Originally posted by lawndoggie
In fact I was sooo desperate of playing my 705 I even tried using a left steering block on the right just to see my car move on the track..... (ran out of left steering block) strange I think the car was handling better
In fact I was sooo desperate of playing my 705 I even tried using a left steering block on the right just to see my car move on the track..... (ran out of left steering block) strange I think the car was handling better