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Old 12-30-2003, 07:37 PM   #1
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Default Different servos for nitro cars? (i'm ex-electric)

Ok guys, i'm in the process of switching over to nitro from electric, the car i will most likely have will be the r40.

I'm told the servos that came with my jrxr2 radio aren't good enough for a nitro car. Which i believe.

Can anyone explain why, and suggest replacements. Please be specific with names and possibly part numbers since i don't have much radio equipment buying experience.
I prefer to keep the actual radio and i'd like to buy good servos, they don't have to be great.
I want to keep the cost to the minimum it takes to buy ones that aren't junk.

I'm told jr and hitec are good.


Thanks,
Joe
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Old 12-30-2003, 07:47 PM   #2
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Default Re: Different servos for nitro cars? (i'm ex-electric)

Quote:
Originally posted by 2000xp8
Ok guys, i'm in the process of switching over to nitro from electric, the car i will most likely have will be the r40.

I'm told the servos that came with my jrxr2 radio aren't good enough for a nitro car. Which i believe.

Can anyone explain why, and suggest replacements. Please be specific with names and possibly part numbers since i don't have much radio equipment buying experience.
I prefer to keep the actual radio and i'd like to buy good servos, they don't have to be great.
I want to keep the cost to the minimum it takes to buy ones that aren't junk.

I'm told jr and hitec are good.


Thanks,
Joe

I would suggest Digital high speed servo for steering, anything under 0.12sec with around 80oz of torque will do since digital servos has great holding power and holding power is what you need!
KO 2143
Futaba 9451
Hitec 5925

as for throttle, analog will do, anything faster then 0.15sec with at least 60oz of torque will do a good job
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Old 12-30-2003, 08:47 PM   #3
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Thanks ah,

Couple more questions

What is the difference between digital and analog?


And what does coreless mean?

Thanks
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Old 12-30-2003, 10:59 PM   #4
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digital servos are smoother than analog servos but they drian your battery faster

coreless servos are also smoother


but i dont invest my money on servos, stock ones turn the car fast enough for me(sometimes to fast )
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Old 12-30-2003, 11:05 PM   #5
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Default Re: Different servos for nitro cars? (i'm ex-electric)

Quote:
Originally posted by 2000xp8
Ok guys, i'm in the process of switching over to nitro from electric, the car i will most likely have will be the r40.

I'm told the servos that came with my jrxr2 radio aren't good enough for a nitro car. Which i believe.

Can anyone explain why, and suggest replacements. Please be specific with names and possibly part numbers since i don't have much radio equipment buying experience.
I prefer to keep the actual radio and i'd like to buy good servos, they don't have to be great.
I want to keep the cost to the minimum it takes to buy ones that aren't junk.

I'm told jr and hitec are good.


Thanks,
Joe
get a pair of Hi-Tec HS-645mg ,these are ultra torgue metal gear and ball-bearings and you can find them at most hobby shops for under $40.00 and the best thing is that they dont drain your battery and your wallet like a digital servo.
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Old 12-30-2003, 11:15 PM   #6
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Default Re: Re: Different servos for nitro cars? (i'm ex-electric)

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Originally posted by r12 schumacher
get a pair of Hi-Tec HS-645mg ,these are ultra torgue metal gear and ball-bearings and you can find them at most hobby shops for under $40.00 and the best thing is that they dont drain your battery and your wallet like a digital servo.
i wouldnt recommend that servo

1. its not coreless
2. it has trouble centering some times
its pretty much just a hopped up std. servo

try looking at the new JR one, that looks like a better buy if your willing to spend $40 on a servo
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Old 12-31-2003, 04:08 AM   #7
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OK hands up if you only running a 600 mah battery. If you put you hand up than don't even think digital.

Now for the rest of us who are running 1000mah or above all this talk about digital servo's draining your battery to much is rubbish (sorry if offended anyone).

If you charge your battery the night before you plan to race as I do than you can do 40 minutes + before a recharge is required. I run Futaba Digital servo's, HRS reciever(built in failsafe) and a personal transponder and allways go home with plenty of power left.
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Old 12-31-2003, 04:13 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally posted by B4
OK hands up if you only running a 600 mah battery. If you put you hand up than don't even think digital.

Now for the rest of us who are running 1000mah or above all this talk about digital servo's draining your battery to much is rubbish (sorry if offended anyone).

If you charge your battery the night before you plan to race as I do than you can do 40 minutes + before a recharge is required. I run Futaba Digital servo's, HRS reciever(built in failsafe) and a personal transponder and allways go home with plenty of power left.
B4, read this from futaba unless you call futaba rubbish

For those who has battery drainage problem with digital servos.....

This is from Futaba FAQ section:

What can I do to ensure long life of my digital servos?
The number one concern is tight linkages which have absolutely no binding, stiffness, or friction. Because digital servos are always working to hold in position at full strength, if the servo has a point it has to fight in the linkage it will literally burn itself out 'hunting' to try to hold its position. Slop at the neutral position is a very common problem where a standard servo wouldn't notice it but a digital servo will work very hard to try to hold the rod in position and will drain your batteries more quickly and eventually burn up the motor.

and some other FAQ here
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Old 12-31-2003, 04:24 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore
B4, read this from futaba unless you call futaba rubbish

For those who has battery drainage problem with digital servos.....

This is from Futaba FAQ section:

What can I do to ensure long life of my digital servos?
The number one concern is tight linkages which have absolutely no binding, stiffness, or friction. Because digital servos are always working to hold in position at full strength, if the servo has a point it has to fight in the linkage it will literally burn itself out 'hunting' to try to hold its position. Slop at the neutral position is a very common problem where a standard servo wouldn't notice it but a digital servo will work very hard to try to hold the rod in position and will drain your batteries more quickly and eventually burn up the motor.

and some other FAQ here
Hi Manticore,

I read you post in the MTX thread after I posted here. I agree with what Futaba say.
However what I said is correct also. If you run the types of cars we have than your must pay attention and not have binding linkages. My statement was made in regard to some one building the car correctly.
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Old 12-31-2003, 05:15 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by B4
Hi Manticore,

I read you post in the MTX thread after I posted here. I agree with what Futaba say.
However what I said is correct also. If you run the types of cars we have than your must pay attention and not have binding linkages. My statement was made in regard to some one building the car correctly.
alright !! cheers mate and happy new year !!
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Old 12-31-2003, 06:34 AM   #11
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Default Re: Re: Re: Different servos for nitro cars? (i'm ex-electric)

Quote:
Originally posted by me43
i wouldnt recommend that servo

1. its not coreless
2. it has trouble centering some times
its pretty much just a hopped up std. servo

try looking at the new JR one, that looks like a better buy if your willing to spend $40 on a servo
i have been running those servos for 4 years and never had any problems i have used them on 1/8 scale on road and now my touring car, i had digital servos in the past and i wouldnt waste my money ever again. and this servo is just as smooth as the digital servo that i had.
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Old 12-31-2003, 06:47 AM   #12
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I hate coming into a flame war but I'll have to agree against the HS-645. I used Hitec servos almost exclusively until the 600 series started breaking. Hitec is great and sent me new servos but those also broke. Well to shorten this story I tried one of those JR Z-590m servos and it's the best $40 servo I ever had. It's good enough for throttle duty in any nitro and is good for steering in stadium trucks. I even used a pair in my NTC3 and raced for one season using them.

Currently I have several digitals; two Hitec 5925, one JR 8550 and a Futaba 9451. I can't tell is these drain the battery any faster than analog, that is I haven't noticed any significant reduction of run time. I have one Hitec and a Futaba in my 1/8 buggy and they seem to last but I always recharge before the main.

BTW; it seems that Hitec's coreless digitals are several cuts above their analog sevos in quality. I've had one in my TC3 for over two years with racing it almost every weekend and it's still ticking after the licking.
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Old 12-31-2003, 01:21 PM   #13
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Default Diiferent points of view

This is what forums are all about.

Many people with diiferent ideas to arrive at the same point. An r/c vehicle that does what you expect it to do when you want it to.

Happy New Year to you all and enjoy 2004 it could be your best year.
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Old 12-31-2003, 02:29 PM   #14
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Is the only description of coreless=smooth?

I'd kinda of like to actually know what it means.

I noticed the first suggestions for servos from ah10 seem to be very close to the top of the line stuff. Not sure i need that good to start off.

I also think (i've researched alot of cars, so i may be wrong) i've heard that the r40 has the servo hanging in a place where it may get damaged, our track isn't very hard on cars, but i don't want to go in with little experience with the car and destroy a $100 dollar servo.

So middle of the road equipment will satisfy me for the time being.

Right now i'd like to buy one $50 dollar servo and use the stock one for the throttle, would that be ok until i got used to the car?

After reading everyones posts, i'd prefer to not go out and buy 200 dollars worth of servos yet.

Maybe one of these for the steering??
http://www.servocity.com/ServoCity/P...g_digital.html
I think it's digital just not coreless.

Thanks again, for everyone opinions
Joe
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Old 12-31-2003, 05:00 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by 2000xp8
Is the only description of coreless=smooth?
ok this is from hitec website:
"In a standard motor, there is an iron core between two permanent magnets. Around this core is the wire winding. The core generally has either 3 or 5 sections. As the core moves, these sections cause the core to hesitate slightly when it reaches a different magnetic polarity. This is called ratcheting. Because of this ratcheting, the cored servos have less start up torque and a wider dead band.

In a coreless servo, there is no iron core. There is one permanent magnet around which is a bell of wire. When electricity is supplied the bell spins around this magnet. Since there are no sections or core, there is no hesitation between poles. This gives the coreless servo better start-up torque and resolution. "
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