ck960

iTrader: (11)

just finish our club race qual 4 and finish 3rd
the car handle great, still learning the car out this is my second race with this car, i'm running 120k front and 80k rear diff and adjustable rear roll bar 45deg (hard blade type)... soon to try is front oneway(modified from 705 part) and rear narrow lower arm mount

yeah the 1 way is a problem, saw one lock up and strip the gears on my friends car... mine still OK i check it after every run and relube it with oneway bearing oil... maybe need to try some grease like DJ said...
for the belts i think is the rear soft that wear off faster but still can last 3x 5min qual and 45min final...

crashman1

Hi All
Can anyone help me with building the diffs in the 733, any suggestions or help with putting them together and what diff oils to use in a medium grip track, When I brought the car the previous guy stripped the screws and they both leaked.
Thanks in advance
Jamie

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

i dont have problems with the diffs. you start the screws first in one housing, leave the spider gears out. fill the diff half full with the drive gear on the outdrive. then let it settle for 5 mins, fit the spider gears, then top up if needed. when screwing together, you need to use a hook tool so the O ring isnt twisted on the outer casing. then mate them together, and when screwing them together, be carefull to not over tighten or they will strip. a firm tightness is all they need. if you want to make sure, then a small amount of silicone sealant on the O ring.

just came back from moorebank. i ran old 50,000 W in the rear, and Ofna 120,000 W in the front. i will be awaiting the spool on its release. also ran 45W shock oil with 2 hole pistons front and 3 hole rear. the car suffered from understeer with the stock front swaybar, so i used the next softest down, which has 2 marks on the bar, the stock has 3 . When i get my cars back i will do a setup sheet from Moorebank, or next time your down , you can have a chat with Kyle.

notorious

Hi everyone,

I have been using either buggy and truggy for more than three years.Now, I tend to buy the serpent 733.
Firstly, I have read all threat. But I have some questions about 733 due to being newbie for onroad car.
I would like to use local track and join the local race for next season.

Which tyre do you recommend for begining (shore, diameter f/r)?
which engine do you recommend for begining (I'd prefer to buy average engine, not so expensive)?
which fuel do you recommend for beginning (% nitro, brand) ?
which servos? ( throttle and steer, brand and model)

However what do I need some special tools such as tyre truer?

Thank you in advance

Cengiz Baday, Istanbul/TURKEY

trickd122

iTrader: (3)

Which tyre do you recommend for begining (shore, diameter f/r)?

Typically you will want to go with whats popular at that track and is readily available. There are alot of brands out there ALL of which IMO are good
JACO, TWISTER, XCEED just to name a few
Diameter 62mm rears and 60 fronts will usually work great

which engine do you recommend for begining (I'd prefer to buy average engine, not so expensive)?
What's your budget? keep in mind here you get what you pay for

which fuel do you recommend for beginning (% nitro, brand) ?
%16 and whats locally available (fresher stuff)

which servos? ( throttle and steer, brand and model)
I use Futabl 9351's for both. No issues

However what do I need some special tools such as tyre truer?
Yes this is a GREAT option, IMO Hudy makes the best tire truers PERIOD.
I have seen ppl buy cheaper ones only to end up buying a Hudy. Trust me it's alot cheaper just to buy a Hudy now and call it a day. The Truer that I have is 9(nine) years old

hope that helps

Gonzo RR

iTrader: (1)

I think a tire truer is a must for onroad racing! New foam tires come with 64-65mm in diameter and it makes a huge difference when you trim them down to the right diameter (58-62mm) I only trim down about 1mm on new tires and used them for practice but that's so I get them most life out of them. Also the outsite tires wear more and the truer helps to keep the diameters the same.
I bought a used OFNA tire truer and end it up selling it... Now I use a Team Integy truer wich I bought new ($200) which is not bad for me since I don't use it that much. FOR SURE HUDY TIRE TRUER is the best out there ($400+)

notorious

Thanks trickd122 for valuable infos.

I can afford for engine more or less 250 usd.I think, I do not need pro engine for preliminary practices.

So what should I have some essential stuff as a spare part?

cobrajet

iTrader: (5)

a set of arms and front uprights would be a good start. and then just see what breaks.
i like to be ready for anything, cus anything can happen on the track. Ball bearing ware out, screws break or break off in a alum part making it impossible to fix track side, tie rod ends get lose.
Oh and if your car has the low friction belts, a spare set or a orange set. the orange set takes a beating.
as for motors, its hard to beat a "red dot" for its price, i chunked a os speed after running one.

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

Tire F 60 , R 62mm is a good choice
Engine , Fun can choice GRP ,Novarossi N12T1 ,
racing can choice RB T9RC , Novarossi 353'09 or MAX XXL3 /BS
Fuel 16%
Tire Truer 3 Racing start is best choice !

dj apolaro

Hi guys,

I went to a track that has high bite in Chaplin, CT. I used this set-up and the car was really good. Earlier I had posted how I would be doing some testing and that is what this is. Hope some of you try it and pass on your finding to help our fellow racers. The car is still new to the market and I want to help bridge that gap on finding the best set-up.

Front-

-2 droop, this helped with the bump in front of the drivers stand trying to make the right hand turn.
5 ride height
short car
2mm of actual caster, 4mm of clips
camber left 3 ( I know this seems weird, but it was needed to keep the tire from coning the wrong way, due to the hard right turns)
camber right 1.5
35 shore - twister tires (www.twistertiresusa.com)
-1 toe
198 width
blue springs
layed down
900 wt
1 hole piston
spool (for now use the heaviest oil you can get)
Standard hex
2.2mm front sway bar. This is the one step softer than the stock
Roll center pins all the way up


Rear-

2.5 droop
6 ride height
short car
4 left camber
3.25 right camber
camber link is inside on tower all the way down and 2mm and inner on hub
40 shore - twister tires (www.twistertiresusa.com)
2 toe
199 width
pink springs (I use long rear springs)
layed down
900wt
2 hole piston
150 diff oil ( I think anything from 100 to 150 will work good. 120 would be best I think)
Standard hex
softest sway bar setting
Roll center pins all the way down

Key Notes:

I did not use any of the screws that stiffen the chassis. All four in the back are taken out and I also removed the one in the bottom that is for the radio tray. In the quals I used 59mm rear with 57.2mm fronts. Did not need to glue any tires during the Quals. In the final I used 45 rear left 62mm, 42 rear right 62mm, 42 front left 60mm and 37 front right 60mm. I used the stickers that come with the tires in the rear and lightly glued the front tires. The reason for the extreme difference in the front is there are 2 hard right turns and I found in the quals the left front was taking a lot of tire off. ( I had a lot of tire still at the end of the final, but was testing big tires to learn about traction roll for long finals) I only had about 2.5mm of rear tire wear in the final. I was able to hold a lot of triggle in the right and make it a sweeper at the end of the straight and also on the cross down in the middle of the track I could hold pretty good to make that right turn. This is why I used the 42 front left tire instead of a typical 40 I would have used.

Motor and clutch info:

NOVAROSSI 353 tuned
2652 pipe with short header (5 ring)
stock clutch with .7 gap
.2 end play
I used yellow shoe. I would have liked to try the red, but did not have time. I think with red would need .8 gap
I do not measure spring, sorry. I adjust till it slips and back off a 1/4 to 1/2 turn
gearing is 17/22 and 61/54

If I missed anything just ask.

Have fun and good luck,

DJ Apolaro

G87z

iTrader: (7)

Quick question,

What type of tape is everyone using to hold their receiver packs in? I have a tried a few diffrent kinds of tape and 2 diffrent packs. Its almost as if the packs are too wide and the side belt cuts the tape. I am not using a lipo pack. Would the lipo pack be smaller and allow the side belt to run free?

Thanks,

Gonzo RR

iTrader: (1)

I used black electrical tape and so far no problems at all

Serpent-Dan

iTrader: (18)

shawn01

iTrader: (10)

After months of waiting I finally made it back to the states from afghanistan, and couldnt wait to get on my local track with my new 733. I dont get a chance to run nationals or any big races like most of you guys do, but......I Got to the track early to get a few runs in by myself and to tweak anything if needed. I ran the set-up DJ first suggested. I rolled the first few laps nice and slow, to get used to how the car handled. This thing stuck to the track like glue!. Each lap I was getting on the throttle more and more. It ended up being a practice day at the track, so I was running with 1/8th and 1/10 scale cars. My 733 gave ALL of the 1/8th scale guys a great run, and as for the 1/10 scale cars, bu-bye. This car handles like its on rails, and the Novarossi 353 has the power to push it to the limits I love it!

Team Kamikaze

iTrader: (3)

Nice!