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Old 09-06-2009, 07:09 AM   #1066
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Just a quick question. While building the kit I noticed the manual says that the 1 degree front hubs standard equipment and the 0 degree front hubs are optional. But the kit comes with 0 degree front hubs. If I am correct the 1 degree hubs will give more steering? correct me if I am wrong.

Also, I searched but I could not find what the diffrence is between the black belts that come with the kit and the orange belts.

Thank you,

George
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Old 09-06-2009, 07:17 AM   #1067
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0 degree blocks gives more steering going into the corner.

1 degree blocks gives more on power steering or from mid to out.

Orange belts are standard belts( just coloured orange )

Black belts are the lowfriction type( better )

Black belts came standard in the first batch of 733 kits.

Hope that answer your questions.
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Old 09-06-2009, 07:58 AM   #1068
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Sweet. Thanks for the info. I tried the 1 degree blocks yesterday and the car had exactly that. A ton of on power steering out of the corner. Almost too much. Made it very snappy. As for the belts I will stick with the black then. The rear belts seems too thin.. I wore the first one out yesterday half way through the 25 mins A main. Besides the Belt the car was awesome.

Also, is it me or is the Serpent Diff fluid much thinner than Mugen? because 30,000 and 80,000 serpent is like water compared to my mugen 30,000 and 50,000.

Thanks again,
George

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Originally Posted by nitro ho View Post
0 degree blocks gives more steering going into the corner.

1 degree blocks gives more on power steering or from mid to out.

Orange belts are standard belts( just coloured orange )

Black belts are the lowfriction type( better )

Black belts came standard in the first batch of 733 kits.

Hope that answer your questions.
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Old 09-06-2009, 08:19 AM   #1069
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pattojnr View Post
firstly caster should be the same left and right. so set it evenly. what you end up with will be determinded by the track conditions.
the front belt does run on the steering , but it isnt a huge problem, relieve some plastic from where it is touching, this is what i did.
and lastly, the diffs will loosen up after running them for 10 or 15 mins.

hope this helps
Thank you very much... I will try...
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Old 09-06-2009, 10:33 AM   #1070
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G87z View Post
Sweet. Thanks for the info. I tried the 1 degree blocks yesterday and the car had exactly that. A ton of on power steering out of the corner. Almost too much. Made it very snappy. As for the belts I will stick with the black then. The rear belts seems too thin.. I wore the first one out yesterday half way through the 25 mins A main. Besides the Belt the car was awesome.

Also, is it me or is the Serpent Diff fluid much thinner than Mugen? because 30,000 and 80,000 serpent is like water compared to my mugen 30,000 and 50,000.

Thanks again,
George

Yes the serpent oil is quite a bit thinner than the mugen stuff, but i did find out when i was running the 720 that although the serpent oil is indeed thinner than the mugen stuff, the serpent oil tends to be more consistant than the mugen stuff, from batch to batch i mean ( this is what i mean, i bought 2 bottles of 40 000 mugen oil, and after testing them out( flip the bottle upside down, they were two different consistansies, wtf )

Stick with the serpent stuff, ther`re better.
Believe me i`ve tried them all.
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Old 09-06-2009, 11:09 AM   #1071
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I guess I will try ordering the thicker serpent oils then. Because the 30/80 combo is just way too loose. May I ask what viscosity u run?

Thanks,



Quote:
Originally Posted by nitro ho View Post
Yes the serpent oil is quite a bit thinner than the mugen stuff, but i did find out when i was running the 720 that although the serpent oil is indeed thinner than the mugen stuff, the serpent oil tends to be more consistant than the mugen stuff, from batch to batch i mean ( this is what i mean, i bought 2 bottles of 40 000 mugen oil, and after testing them out( flip the bottle upside down, they were two different consistansies, wtf )

Stick with the serpent stuff, ther`re better.
Believe me i`ve tried them all.
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Old 09-07-2009, 09:49 PM   #1072
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is there a website to get serpent directly from them? also if i was to order a new kit will it come with the new tank or are they now making a new batch
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Old 09-08-2009, 01:15 AM   #1073
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Serpentamerica.com. The kit should have the new tank from serpent.
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Old 09-08-2009, 01:10 PM   #1074
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Default Clutch Gap

Hi,

I am building th clutch that came with my 733 and the max cultch gap I can get is .5 with a red shoe, I have no shims or bearings when I am measuring with vernier or Hudy tool. Any idea's what I could be doing wrong?? Its going onto a Max XXL3

Thanks

Keith
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Old 09-08-2009, 02:43 PM   #1075
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0.5mm is good to start with from new, I bet it will wear to 0.6/0.7 in just a few minutes and will stay there for a long time....
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Old 09-08-2009, 02:51 PM   #1076
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Hello,

It happened to me also. I was not able to adjust the gap with the WC gears (dark, hardcoted, engraved) and WC bell (black) coming with the 733 kit. I replaced them to the "old" ones (silver gears and gunmetal clutchbell) and the problem was gone. I haven't figured out yet what could be the reason.

Hope this helps,
Gergely


Quote:
Originally Posted by kdempsey View Post
Hi,

I am building th clutch that came with my 733 and the max cultch gap I can get is .5 with a red shoe, I have no shims or bearings when I am measuring with vernier or Hudy tool. Any idea's what I could be doing wrong?? Its going onto a Max XXL3

Thanks

Keith
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Old 09-08-2009, 03:34 PM   #1077
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gergely View Post
Hello,

It happened to me also. I was not able to adjust the gap with the WC gears (dark, hardcoted, engraved) and WC bell (black) coming with the 733 kit. I replaced them to the "old" ones (silver gears and gunmetal clutchbell) and the problem was gone. I haven't figured out yet what could be the reason.

Hope this helps,
Gergely
Yeah I had to do do the same as you(back to old gears) for first race but I want to use the WC. I have driven the car with these gears and .5 gap but its just to soft.
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Old 09-08-2009, 06:48 PM   #1078
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well stil buildin my 733 , and i did noticed with out a tank and tires and pipe on it, i found it heavier then my 720, can this be correct or is my one arm stronger then the other, wasnt the 733 suppose to be lighter then the 720??
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Old 09-08-2009, 07:10 PM   #1079
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdempsey View Post
Hi,

I am building th clutch that came with my 733 and the max cultch gap I can get is .5 with a red shoe, I have no shims or bearings when I am measuring with vernier or Hudy tool. Any idea's what I could be doing wrong?? Its going onto a Max XXL3

Thanks

Keith
Make sure the first gear pinion is fully screwed in.
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Old 09-08-2009, 07:33 PM   #1080
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Ok guys just got back from the Nats and for my first race with the car I didn't do toooo bad. Finished 3rd in the 1/4 final but I learned so much about the car. The car is just awesome.....................period.

With this setup I could run fast laps of 20.3. The Big guns were turning mid 19's and some even hit some high 18's. Not too far off but I still need some practice.

Front:
1.5 camber
.5 toe out
2mm caster shim in front
Roll center mid
new blue spring/2hole piston/1000cst oil/2nd hole
sway bar flush
ride 5.5mm
droop +1
wheel base long
track width 198
ackerman wide and back
Diff oil 200K cst
Rear:
camber 4.0L/3.5R
2 toe in
roll center mid
new pink spring/3 hole/1000cst/bottom hole
sway 2mm in on bar
ride 6mm
droop +3
wheel base 1mm short
link inside middle/ outside hole on the hub 4mm total shims
track width 200mm
Diff oil 80K cst

Stratus 3.1
Tire combo's F/R = 38/42, 40/42, 42/45

very balanced easy too drive. (If using this setup on low bite tracks and it pushes try raising the lower hinge pins up). reset the droop.
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Last edited by quietstorm76; 09-17-2009 at 10:40 AM.
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