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Old 05-13-2012, 08:13 PM   #4141
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Will the ProTek LiFe 1450 fit?
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Old 05-14-2012, 07:26 AM   #4142
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That should work fine. You need to keep the width of the battery around 30mm. Anything over 30mm you run the chance of touching the side belt.


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Old 05-14-2012, 08:05 AM   #4143
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Cool thanks
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Old 05-14-2012, 08:42 AM   #4144
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i jest got mine from serpent usa store for 399.00 /150.00 bucks off normal price ! now what to do with my never run update parts hpi r40 ?
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Old 05-17-2012, 07:31 PM   #4145
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Have a setup question about my 733. The car is currently setup to factory setup, and its pretty close to what our clubs small track needs.

My concern is the left rear tire is coneing really badly to the outside of the car (outer edge has is smaller then the inner part of the wheel). Our track has a clock-wise direction, and I am hard on the throttle to accelerate in the last corner (which puts alot of force on the left rear), then the track progresses into a right handed sweeper (more left rear tire wear), and then in a hard right (you got it! More Left rear tire wear!). This problem was not present on my 720 I used to run. I just swapped the wheels every 10-15 minutes of track time and they stayed pretty equal. The 733 is destroying the left rear in one main. (20min)

The camber is at -3deg, and 3 deg of toe in. Problem is I really dont want to run to much more static camber. I was thinking of using the outer lower hole on the rear bulkhead, and move the camberlink to the outer hole closest to the rear wheel. My thinking is this should give my car more active camber during the longer corners where the car pitches over, but still keeps good wheel contact on the slower corners. It would also raise the rear roll center alittle bit to (should free up the car abit, which would be good).


Does this make sense? Or Am I over thinking this? Would there be any side effects to the handling?

Shawn
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Old 05-17-2012, 11:09 PM   #4146
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you can definately try what you suggested. a shorter top link will always create more Camber Gain. problem being if you still need to keep that much static camber, you may get loose on the rear. but its something you will have to try. a harder rear sway bar will also prevent more body roll, and keep the chassis flatter. but changing these 2, you may loose some balance of front to rear grip. so you may need to react at the front to some of the rear changes. also look at the rim you use. if it flexes alot, it may be Rolling over by Rim flex, or real soft shore Foam.
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Old 05-17-2012, 11:11 PM   #4147
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Yes, thats what you should do, it will give you some more turn mid corner also.
Try lowering your rideheight if its possible, you could use a harder shore just on that tire.
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Old 05-18-2012, 08:20 AM   #4148
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hey im looking for a motor for my car. 733 and why have motor prices have gone up soo much. 500.00 for a motor more than a hand gun . this will destroy the hobbies and kids will never get into this because of cost.
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Old 05-18-2012, 08:33 AM   #4149
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Serpent America has a 353 novarossi for $249.95 and that is a good price !
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Old 05-18-2012, 12:26 PM   #4150
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Originally Posted by howardns View Post
Serpent America has a 353 novarossi for $249.95 and that is a good price !
thanks man.
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Old 05-18-2012, 12:32 PM   #4151
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why would anyone make a NOVKEEPON12PRERUN
Price: $599.00
man come on now this why people dont run cars .
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Old 05-20-2012, 08:38 AM   #4152
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Originally Posted by rcpanama View Post
I had my 733, since two month after announcement last year, been using the original Diff, what I did is used shorter screws, I have not change the oil in does diff since I build my 733, they are not leaking, and I almost dismount the car every time I race, check the diff for leak to see if I have to change with the new ones I bought, and they are dry, so I put them back to the car.
I did had to change the tank, have no problem since I change it for the new one (revise).
I had some accident during races, not big ones but good ones, without any mayor issue.
What I can say is that I am in love with this car, very easy to work and drive, I have improve my driving and position, I am always in the four first qualifiers since I had my 733.

RCPANAMA
what screws did you short end?
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Old 05-20-2012, 12:14 PM   #4153
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Originally Posted by Pattojnr View Post
you can definately try what you suggested. a shorter top link will always create more Camber Gain. problem being if you still need to keep that much static camber, you may get loose on the rear. but its something you will have to try. a harder rear sway bar will also prevent more body roll, and keep the chassis flatter. but changing these 2, you may loose some balance of front to rear grip. so you may need to react at the front to some of the rear changes. also look at the rim you use. if it flexes alot, it may be Rolling over by Rim flex, or real soft shore Foam.

OK thanks. I made the changes to the car, but wont be testing out until next week. I also ordered some harder rears. I am running 35front, 38 rear Jacos. I ordered some 40 and 42 Jaco Rears to try them out. The car is alittle tight, so maybe the harder rear will also loosen the car up a bit.


Shawn
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Old 05-20-2012, 04:22 PM   #4154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawn68z View Post
OK thanks. I made the changes to the car, but wont be testing out until next week. I also ordered some harder rears. I am running 35front, 38 rear Jacos. I ordered some 40 and 42 Jaco Rears to try them out. The car is alittle tight, so maybe the harder rear will also loosen the car up a bit.


Shawn
a jump from 35F-38R to 40F-42R is a big jump. maybe can try 38F-40R ?
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Old 05-20-2012, 10:19 PM   #4155
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Originally Posted by Pattojnr View Post
a jump from 35F-38R to 40F-42R is a big jump. maybe can try 38F-40R ?

My post might not have been clear. I currently am running 35F, 38R Jacos. I have ordered 2 pairs of 40R, and 2 Pairs of 42R Jacos. I was planning on trying out 35F/40R, first, and if the balance is not good moving to 37F/40R. If I still feel I have lots of grip, then I might try the 38F/42R combo, and i think I still have some 40F to try the 40F/42R.

I talked to acouple of guys and 35F/35R, 35F/38R seems to be the norm. I used to run 37F/40R on my 720 and never had a problem with coning. I just dont know if it was the 720's setup, or the harder shores made the difference.

Cheers,
Shawn.
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