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Old 07-30-2010, 10:19 AM   #2716
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Default diff

hey fellas is the xceed light diff for the front or the rear?? and also where does the little brass things go... ??
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Old 08-02-2010, 02:30 AM   #2717
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Anyone have the dimensions of the 733 rear gear diff, as in the width of the diff and the size of the bearing?
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Old 08-04-2010, 12:58 AM   #2718
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Default fly weights

Have anyone tried using the fly weights with the hole drilled in the wrong end?

I am waiting for new ones, but want to be able to drive in the meantime.
I can't get the clutch to engage when the hole is in the wrong end. Have anyone of you guys actually get it to work with the fly weights mounted the wrong way?

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Old 08-04-2010, 01:07 AM   #2719
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Originally Posted by Serpent fan View Post
Have anyone tried using the fly weights with the hole drilled in the wrong end?

I am waiting for new ones, but want to be able to drive in the meantime.
I can't get the clutch to engage when the hole is in the wrong end. Have anyone of you guys actually get it to work with the fly weights mounted the wrong way?

Serpent fan
Yes i used them for a while , just built the clutch as normal and they worked fine , i also used a old set i had from an xray nt1 they worked fine aswell
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Old 08-04-2010, 01:18 AM   #2720
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Yes i used them for a while , just built the clutch as normal and they worked fine , i also used a old set i had from an xray nt1 they worked fine aswell
You mounted them with the chamfer towards the engine?
I cannot get the clutch to engage properly, I thought that was the problem.
What else can it be then? I've triple checked the gaps..
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Old 08-04-2010, 02:52 AM   #2721
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try putting the flyweight between the flywheel pins instead...

this should get you going.
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Old 08-04-2010, 03:28 AM   #2722
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try putting the flyweight between the flywheel pins instead...

this should get you going.
Thanks for the tip
How do I do that? Do I have to modify the fly weights in any way?

Also, won't that increase the risk of them jamming up in there or something?
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Old 08-04-2010, 09:20 AM   #2723
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serpent fan View Post
Have anyone tried using the fly weights with the hole drilled in the wrong end?

I am waiting for new ones, but want to be able to drive in the meantime.
I can't get the clutch to engage when the hole is in the wrong end. Have anyone of you guys actually get it to work with the fly weights mounted the wrong way?

Serpent fan
Those FLYWEIGHTS with holes drilled the other way are called "leading Flyweights" (it's not wrong) they engage more aggressively than the flyweights that have holes drilled the traditional way, if you set the total gap correctly it will engage.
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Old 08-04-2010, 09:36 AM   #2724
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Originally Posted by younghovaa View Post
hey fellas is the xceed light diff for the front or the rear?? and also where does the little brass things go... ??
The light diff gears are made to run smoother than the stock metal gears. However my stock diff works fine for me in the rear with either 80000 or 100000. Its when you use the kit supplied 30000 where it may get clunky. Normally you would put the light diff gears in the rear because that is typically where you would use the light diff oil.

The brass things go in the ends of the shafts because the diff was designed primarily to fit the XRay. The brass things allow the shafts to fit in the 733 diff housing.


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Originally Posted by ali_g View Post
Anyone have the dimensions of the 733 rear gear diff, as in the width of the diff and the size of the bearing?
Look here to get all the information you need about the 733
http://www.serpent.com/product/804000/downloads/

The diff bearing size is 12x18.
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Old 08-04-2010, 02:41 PM   #2725
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Originally Posted by YR4Dude View Post
The light diff gears are made to run smoother than the stock metal gears. However my stock diff works fine for me in the rear with either 80000 or 100000. Its when you use the kit supplied 30000 where it may get clunky. Normally you would put the light diff gears in the rear because that is typically where you would use the light diff oil.

The brass things go in the ends of the shafts because the diff was designed primarily to fit the XRay. The brass things allow the shafts to fit in the 733 diff housing.




Look here to get all the information you need about the 733
http://www.serpent.com/product/804000/downloads/

The diff bearing size is 12x18.
The light gears are purely for weight saving, so don't know what you're talking about.
There is no link what so ever between diff gear material and oil thickness.
Just use the same oils.
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Old 08-04-2010, 02:55 PM   #2726
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The light gears are purely for weight saving, so don't know what you're talking about.
There is no link what so ever between diff gear material and oil thickness.
Just use the same oils.
Read here and you'll know what I'm talking about.
http://www.rceasy.com/2010/06/10/xce...d-nt1-for-pro/
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Old 08-04-2010, 03:24 PM   #2727
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Don't read anything about oils.
I have the Capricorn ones in my diffs since march this year and there wasn't a single difference in terms of diff feel, car balance. Only more acceleration and faster de-acceleration.
It's impossible to have different diff locking with the plastic gears since they don't change the diff case volume.
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Old 08-04-2010, 05:08 PM   #2728
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Its not about the oils.

Its says that the molded composite gears are smoother.

The composites have more give than steel because their not as hard. The steel gears being harder have a tendency to chatter because of the beveled gears. The viscosity of the diff oil helps to dampen the chatter. However when you use lighter oils (less viscosity) it results in less dampening.

Since the composites allow you to run smoother with lighter fluid, it is also able to react quicker. Given the size of these gears, I really don't see how the difference in weight would amount to any noticeable change in inertia between the two diffs that would have any great effect. However if one works more smoothly than the other, thats a change that would be noticeable.
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Old 08-04-2010, 05:32 PM   #2729
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Old 08-04-2010, 05:48 PM   #2730
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