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Old 06-08-2010, 08:30 PM   #2491
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You should not use or need that much steering throw. The steering blocks can turn more than the cvd's will allow, so just adjust travel to keep the joints from binding.
sometimes the grub screw comes out and starts locking things up, i always remove the set screw in the CV.
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Old 06-08-2010, 08:52 PM   #2492
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tks patto and julius for yr advise. but i never install screw at cvd.
well i hv check every thing. seem like all of them r in order
for the steering throw, my turning radius, i adj. until there is no binding on the servo (70% to 80%). still cant figure out the problems..
it doesnt matter whether i use solid, diff or spoon right?
should i change the cvd or front knuckle
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Old 06-08-2010, 09:29 PM   #2493
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Julius told you what the problem is, your steering trow is too much, set your enpoints for less trow so it won't bind up the cvs when you turn.
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Old 06-08-2010, 10:20 PM   #2494
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Julius told you what the problem is, your steering trow is too much, set your enpoints for less trow so it won't bind up the cvs when you turn.
well i setup my steering the same way, and funny enough i dont have this problem . remember this is happening after an accident, i would gather something is bent. swap cv's left to right and see if the problem changes sides, i would imagine a bent shaft ?
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Old 06-09-2010, 03:30 AM   #2495
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Default steering problems

well guys tks for great help and advise,
will try to change cvd and check other thing which might cause it.
tks again it have being great help
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Old 06-09-2010, 10:44 AM   #2496
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Default wet practice

practice in the wet yesterday











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Old 06-09-2010, 10:53 AM   #2497
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Default cvd joint

well guys,
i found out what cause the knock when i turn to max for
the steering is not cause by the screw or bend shaft, is the wear and
tear on the shaft itself. when we turn left and right ,the cvd pin steel
wear off the shaft slot where the pin sit.... so when i change new shaft
where ever i turn no more knock.
just to share this experience with all

good luck to all on race

make sure all of you need to check this in future..

thks again for guideline
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Old 06-09-2010, 09:55 PM   #2498
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Well had my 1st run with the 733 on the weekand and the 1st for over 2 years in a nitro tourer.
My 1st thoughts was how easy is this to work on. The car was on rails all weekand. Had a small issue with my tire choice at the start of the weekand but with a change to the Exceed tires, all was well.
I would like to thank Patto for suppling the new 733 car and setting it up for me. Also you knowledge on the Serpent was a welcome releif. Having you race at our local track to ask questions and help with parts and tires sure made my weekand easier.
I quilified 5th and finisehed 5th in the main sure made for a great weekands racing.
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Old 06-09-2010, 10:07 PM   #2499
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wee View Post
well guys,
i found out what cause the knock when i turn to max for
the steering is not cause by the screw or bend shaft, is the wear and
tear on the shaft itself. when we turn left and right ,the cvd pin steel
wear off the shaft slot where the pin sit.... so when i change new shaft
where ever i turn no more knock.
just to share this experience with all

good luck to all on race

make sure all of you need to check this in future..

thks again for guideline
You dont need to use the grab screw to tight pin on GP car, as bearing with cover each end of the pin. Pin will wear and created flat spot. I never use grab screw on MTX4, NT1, RRR and now 733.
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Old 06-10-2010, 01:36 AM   #2500
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Nice rain pics
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Old 06-10-2010, 04:33 AM   #2501
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how did your car handle in the rain?

i tried running in rain once and it was very slippery... drifted every corner
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Old 06-10-2010, 11:32 AM   #2502
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it was good , you just have to be carefull with the throttle , using these tyres http://demonpowerproducts.co.uk/prod...oducts_id=3022 Schumacher XG-WET BRCA 2008 Wet Tyre
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Old 06-13-2010, 08:18 PM   #2503
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Default better late than never

I got my 733 today and man what a diffence from my 720 very pleased.
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Old 06-14-2010, 11:34 AM   #2504
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Greetings fellow Serpent enthusiasts:

was hoping to get some feedback on an issue I currently have with the "EEL"

to date I have burned through 4 lower "right" wishbones (this season alone). The last one was an "H". Now im not the best driver on the planet but I dont think im abusing the boards more than the Kyosho or Mugen guys. Letís just say that 2 of the 4 impact occurrences were light and the final two were negligible taps. To me this signifies that I have located a weak spot in the material or design of this particular component. In every case I have cracked the pivot ball enclosure at the end of the wishbone. Just cracked, nothing more. The actual pivot ball ends up pulling out on impact.

or perhaps its something else entirely...

let me ask you guys how ya feel about NitroSpay. I have been using it religiously for years (well derivatives of Nitro Spray for that matter). I understand that over time it makes certain plastics brittle. I was thinking that perhaps the material Serpent uses is a little more prone to instability when coupled with whatever chemical reaction this "Nitro Spay" induces?

or

that my level of suck just far exceeds this reader base?

Its quite possible a lighter, better handling car was not what I should have purchased when deciding to get back in this hobby. It may turn out that the Tamiya RC tank would have been the better fit for my driving style. At least I could shoot a plastic dart at other drivers distracting them as I turtle by for the win...

Thanks for any assistance you can provide.


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Old 06-14-2010, 11:39 AM   #2505
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IF you hit hard enough, something will break, theres no way around it. I have had hits where I was sure my car should be broken, yet it kept going. I have hits that didnt seem that hard to me, yet the car broke, and that goes for any brand. Just keep it in the middle, hard I know.
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