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Old 04-19-2010, 01:54 AM   #2191
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mate the first race is always a good one its the second and 3rd etc when it gets hard lol . If you using spacers on the pulley holder the e clip will pop too. but your car did look very good on the track . As for me it feels like going backward the car seem to want a different setup week to week racing even on the same track .
Patience Alex it is good car, PB at Lilydale 2nd time out with a well run in RB T9
The high grip surfaces of NSW tracks it should be a weapon.
So far the best change I have made is the front diff.

Good Luck

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Old 04-20-2010, 04:10 AM   #2192
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Default Pins in CVD's and dogbones

The pins in my CVD's and dogbones are having flat edges after a couple of races. Do you guys replace the entire bones if this happens or is there a possibility to just replace the pin?
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Old 04-20-2010, 09:45 AM   #2193
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Are you putting any lube on the pins? Use either AE black grease, or whats better, Xceed Premium lube
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Old 04-20-2010, 10:51 AM   #2194
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Are you putting any lube on the pins? Use either AE black grease, or whats better, Xceed Premium lube
+1 however you can replace the pins. These CVDs are the strongest I have seen. I have yet to break one.
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Old 04-20-2010, 11:04 AM   #2195
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My rear CVDs are the ones that I used on the front of my S720 for a year, and they are still good, and never broke one.
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Old 04-20-2010, 12:15 PM   #2196
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+1 however you can replace the pins. These CVDs are the strongest I have seen. I have yet to break one.
What is the Serpent part # for the pins in the CVD's.

Thanks.
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Old 04-20-2010, 02:02 PM   #2197
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What is the Serpent part # for the pins in the CVD's.

Thanks.
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Old 04-21-2010, 06:13 PM   #2198
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The pins in my CVD's and dogbones are having flat edges after a couple of races. Do you guys replace the entire bones if this happens or is there a possibility to just replace the pin?
CSO 3x10mm pin 10pcs $3 only !
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Old 04-21-2010, 07:22 PM   #2199
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any one having issues with the diff plastic hollow pins snapping off ( where the screw go in )
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Old 04-21-2010, 08:04 PM   #2200
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any one having issues with the diff plastic hollow pins snapping off ( where the screw go in )
first batch i did. but new parts seem better. its a pain, but i think its sorted now.
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Old 04-21-2010, 08:25 PM   #2201
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first batch i did. but new parts seem better. its a pain, but i think its sorted now.
must be the old batch then as i didnt have the problem with all the diff case but 2 new in packet both did the same .
Thanks pattojnr
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Old 04-22-2010, 08:39 AM   #2202
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You have to take your time with the crews, if you try to go to fast the plastic heats up and they break.
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Old 04-22-2010, 11:25 AM   #2203
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You need to make sure to use the right screw.

There are two sets of self tapping screws that come with the diff. One set short and one set long. The difference is slight by about 2mm but it makes a big difference. When building the diff, use the SHORT screw. Although the longer one may seem to work, you might get away with one hole but you will eventually get one that will strip or break (diff half) which is what you have.

The longer screws are for mounting the diff pulley onto the diff. Even there I've had some issues. What I did instead is use the SHORT screws for both the diff half and the pulleys and that has been good for me so far.
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Old 04-22-2010, 11:33 AM   #2204
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Are you putting any lube on the pins? Use either AE black grease, or whats better, Xceed Premium lube
I've also had good luck using bicycle chain dry lube; doesn't attract dirt and everything I've used it on, onroad or offroad, seems to wear very well.
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Old 04-22-2010, 01:55 PM   #2205
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I've also had good luck using bicycle chain dry lube; doesn't attract dirt and everything I've used it on, onroad or offroad, seems to wear very well.
Which lube are you using? I have used the White Lightening with good results.

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