jca2000au

iTrader: (9)

Todd,

I think the diff housing hole is smaller or same as outdrive. Just use wet and dry sandpaper to sand the plastic housing a bit.
The housing must be slicely bigger than put drive.
You need a Lot of efforts to build 733.

Julius

What exactly is binding?
- Is the diff in the car and does it bind when spinning the whole diff? If so check the excenters are equal. In the loosest setting the diff get's very close to the chassis, I took a little material of the chassis just below the diff.

- do you have the diff in hand and try to turn both outdrives in opposite directions? Make sure the gears are all the way over the outdrives and the bolts are properly tightened. Also check that the o-rings are properly seated.
When you insert the outdrives through the o-rings when building use a little dif oil on the o-rings and in the plastic. You'll feel the resistance of the o-ring but that is normal.

The front and rear diffs are identical, so if the rear was ok and the front is not recheck everyhthing is correctly built.

More info will make it easier to help. There is no need to use sandpaper on the diffs!

Team-RTR

I was turning the diff by hand outside the car and the diff gears didnt feel consistent, now that its in the car it seems fine?

also did anyone else find that the bearings for the front swaybar dont seat in the bulkheads properly if you have the top plastic front bulkhead already attached?? i had to remove it to install the swaybar properly then put it back on.

Julius

Turning the diff by hand (especially the front one with heavy oil) will often feel inconsitent. Because when using the wheels to turn it you have much more leaverage it will feel softer and smoother. When the diff is new you can feel the gears a bit but that will soon go away after running.

I cut a little bit of material off the nylon part so you can mount and remove the bearings with the bulkhead in place. Some however find it usefull that the bearings stay in place....

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

CSO 733 LW 2 speed shaft !

Ultraspeed84

iTrader: (45)

does serpent take std or metric tools

rcpaintinpete

iTrader: (16)

YESSSSSS
OK how do I get one? who has it

gfilos

Which are the main advantages of the 733 versus 720 in terms of handling?

Julius

Isn't metric the standard?

It takes metric

Julius

- less sensitive to setup changes (so you can actually change without fear for messing it all up)
- Better tire wear ratio front to rear (better geometry and weight distibution make the front and rear tires wear down more evenly)
- Better high traction handling
- greatly reduced traction roll in high grip
- quicker response
- better balance between off and on throttle
- less balance change when the grip comes up during the day, so you'll be chasing the track less.

rcpanama

Hi, I have a question, I am running my 733, in a very technical parking lot runway, the traction is low, my car is doing very good, but I will like to get a little more rear traction getting out of the corner (on Throttle).
The first thing it comes to my mine, is increase the Front Anti-roll Bar.
I am using the stock 2.5mm in front, my question is:
Should I used the same 2.5mm, and just harden the set up of this Anti-Roll Bar, or change it, to 2.8mm.

My Set Up is:
Front Diff 100,000
Rear Diff 30,000
Front Spring RED
Rear Spring BLUE (Long)
Front tire 37 60mm
Rear tire 40 62mm
Front Camber 1.5
Rear Camber 3.0
Thanks

RCPANAMA

nitrodude

iTrader: (8)

I would try a softer rear bar first. It also depends onhow much more grip you want, if you just need a little, play around with the sway bars.

Serpent-Dan

iTrader: (18)

I think you should try blue up front and red or orange in the rear.

rcpanama

Sorry I have it backward

RCPANAMA

michael 1

iTrader: (2)

try a little more droop in the front ( example instead of 2 go to 0 ) this will let the weight transfer back to the rear when you get on the gas