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Old 12-25-2003, 09:23 AM   #1
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Default My First Petrol car (HELLLLP)

If any kind soul could please help

I'm having major problems trying to get the motor to start on the fun factor ATX it just wont' start.

It may be a mixture problem but I've no idear on how to setup the mixture.

The manual says you have to cover the exhaust then pump the cord 3 - 4 times then put the glow plug charger on and pump a few more times, the glow plug charger definatly has a charge as when I've removed the glow plug and attached it the glow plug lights up perfectly, the strange thing was there seems to be a lot of air trapped in the fuel pipes as I opened and closed the fuel tank lid the air would move around untill there was no air in the pipes, however when I did this fuel spilled out of the exhaust I'm not having much luck with this....

sorry if this is a dumb question but it's my first one

any help most welcome
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Old 12-25-2003, 04:46 PM   #2
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Hey, try this

your engine is pull start or bump start?? did the fuel go in to the carb?? Make sure it go in to the carb first. open up the carb by using your Tx. than put the glow heater on the plug and start it. Hope this can help you up.......
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Old 12-25-2003, 04:51 PM   #3
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I've managed to get it to start but as soon as it starts it rev's very high and I have to back off on the throttle for it to come down also I have set the idle on the remote to half but when you start it the engine just revs WAY to high... is this a mixture thing or something else?

There is a setting for both idle and max revs which is simple a screw driver adustment I haven't touched the idle rev but have moved the max revs setting but according to the manual I have also reset it back to what it should be (it says close it fully then turn it 3 1/2 times)

again any help most welcome

P.S

MY CORD PULLING FINGERS ARE NOW KILLING ME LOL
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Old 12-25-2003, 05:03 PM   #4
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Default engine break in

engine breaking in car
Running-in the engine in the car.

Running-in the engine while running the car takes more time and requires more self-control (to avoid over-revving the engine). However, it allows the driveline components of the car to operate together for the first time under controlled conditions.
Richen the fuel-mixture from the factory position by turning the main needle ½ turn counter-clockwise (see page 8). Run the car up to half-speed (at MOST) using moderate acceleration. Do this for 4-5 tanks of fuel.
On the next 3 tanks of fuel, slowly increase the speed and acceleration, and start leaning the main needle setting to achieve a good top-speed setting. Lean the main needle setting by turning the needle clockwise.




NOTE: When you adjust the carburetor settings, make adjustments in very small increments, since the engine is very responsive to small changes in mixture settings.




Your engine should be completely run-in after approximately 8 tanks of fuel (1 hour).
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Old 12-25-2003, 05:04 PM   #5
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using Tx to open up the carb is for you to easy start. after you start you need to turn it back to you normal setting on your Tx. As for the idelling, you need to set at the engine idel screw. This engine already breake in?? U need this process for all type brand new engine. Carb is a place where fuel and air mix together ( mixture )
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Old 12-25-2003, 05:15 PM   #6
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Default adjusting carb

Stage 1: Setting the main needle just a little rich
Take the car off the ground, and open the throttle fully. The engine should run cleanly until it reaches 80% of top RPM, after which it should start to run slightly rich (4-stroking):

· If the engine runs cleanly all the way up to top RPM, richen the main needle (counter-clockwise) until it starts to 4-stroke at approximately 80% of its top RPM

· If the engine runs too rich (4-stroking all the way) lean the main needle (clockwise) until it only starts to 4-stroke at approximately 80% of its top RPM




Stage 2: Setting the idle speed
Take the car off the ground, and open the throttle fully for 2-3 seconds. Close the carburetor and check the idle speed that occurs immediately after.

· If the engine stops almost immediately, turn the idle adjustment screw clockwise to increase the idle RPM.

· If the idle RPM is too high, turn the idle adjustment screw counter-clockwise to reduce the idle RPM.




Stage 3: Setting the low speed needle
Open the carburetor for 2-3 seconds and let the engine clean out. Close the carburetor and let the engine idle.

· If the engine idles for 2-5 seconds and then the idle RPM decreases, the engine is running too rich during idle. Lean the low speed needle (clockwise) to remedy this condition. Repeat this step until the engine idles reliably at a constant RPM for at least 20-30 seconds after the carburetor has been opened for 2-3 seconds.

· If the engine idles for 2-5 seconds and then the idle RPM increases, the engine is running too lean during idle. Richen the low speed needle (counter-clockwise) to remedy this situation.

· If the engine will not idle at all, rich the low speed needle (counter-clockwise), or turn the idle adjustment screw clockwise to increase the idle RPM.






NOTE: Because adjusting the low speed needle affects the idle RPM, use the idle adjustment screw to get the engine to idle at the right RPM.




Once you are satisfied that you have achieved reliable carburetor settings, you are ready to put you car on the track.
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Old 12-25-2003, 05:17 PM   #7
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Default adjusting the carb at the track

Adjusting needle settings at the track


You can only fine-tune the main needle setting at the track. Initially, the main needle should still be set a little rich. Fill the fuel tank, run the car up to maximum speed for a few laps, and check if it reaches top RPM without running rich towards the end (4-stroking). Lean the main needle by small increments (1/12 of a turn, like 1 hour on a clock) and run the car again. Repeat these small adjustments until the engine accelerates well and reaches maximum speed without running rich. It is advised to then richen the main needle 1/8 of a turn (counter-clockwise).





Running the engine too lean will cause the engine to overheat, resulting in excessive engine wear and possibly breakdown. A fast, simple way to check the engine temperature is to apply a few drops of water to the cylinder head. The drops should evaporate only after 3-5 seconds. If they evaporate immediately the engine is too hot; richen the main needle 1/8 of a turn (counter-clockwise). Check engine temperature regularly and often.





The idle RPM and low speed needle settings may require a little fine tuning after the main needle has been set properly (see stages 2 and 3). Once properly adjusted, the engine should produce a strong, high-pitched sound at maximum speed, and a thin trail of smoke should be visible from the exhaust tailpipe.





NOTE: The carburetor settings may change with changes in weather conditions, fuel, glowplug or exhaust system. After changing any of these, always richen the main needle (counter-clockwise) ¼ to ½ a turn and then re-adjust the main needle again on the track
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Old 12-25-2003, 07:58 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally posted by Dead and Gone
I've managed to get it to start but as soon as it starts it rev's very high and I have to back off on the throttle for it to come down also I have set the idle on the remote to half but when you start it the engine just revs WAY to high... is this a mixture thing or something else?

There is a setting for both idle and max revs which is simple a screw driver adustment I haven't touched the idle rev but have moved the max revs setting but according to the manual I have also reset it back to what it should be (it says close it fully then turn it 3 1/2 times)

again any help most welcome

P.S

MY CORD PULLING FINGERS ARE NOW KILLING ME LOL
You need to get somebody - friends experience to set this up correctly. It is quit shock and dangerous for us as beginners to try setup a engine.

But anywhere try to understand this article the basic is a same..engine tuning
ae15 engine tuning

If it rev very high.. pls check your idle screw opening, it should about 1mm opening..if more means more mixture high rev. Turn the idle screw clockwise to open it or counterclockwise to close it. Observe the opening. Ok set it 1mm. follow the attachment .. good luck
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Old 12-25-2003, 09:06 PM   #9
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Hey r12 schumacher when you copy from another site say where u got it from.

Adjusting needle settings at the track

Running-in the engine in the car
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Old 12-26-2003, 07:31 AM   #10
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i just trying to help ,didnt feel like sending him to another web page to look ,just trying to keep him in the same page so he can ask questions with out going elsewhere.
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Old 12-26-2003, 06:47 PM   #11
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Yeh that's cool I'm just sayin put a link up saying where u got it from because he might want to look at other tips they have as well
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Old 12-29-2003, 05:32 AM   #12
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cheers for the help guys got it running rather nicely and have put 4 tanks of fuel through it while idle and just taking it out for a mid blast not wacking it everywhere yet, my hobby shop said it is ok to take it on the beach, is that still ok? took it for a quick blast on the beach and what a blast, I cleaned it all out took about and hour and half to do it but looks good after doing it...
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Old 01-18-2004, 10:58 PM   #13
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HYPOTHESIS/THEORY of NITRO FUEL

Personal HYPOTHESIS/THEORY of NITRO (as expereienced by me on 2004.01.18)

My theory is:
Lower NITRO percentage in your fuel require MORE GLOW from your glow driver due to lower nitro content and more difficult to burn.

How I get this theory:
I have a new RTR for bashing. So I bought 16% fuel.
I have a PRO KIT at the moment which use 25% fuel.

I have no problem starting the 25% with my GLOW DRIVER.
But in the other hand I got problem to start my RTR with lower nitro %.

I recharge my GLOW DRIVER and WALLAaaaaaa!!!! The RTR starts”_.. which means the LOWER NITRO fuel needs MORE GLOW from the glow driver. That is where my theory comes in”_. LOWER nitro difficult to get burnt compared to HIGH nitro fuel.

Is it?

Somebody comments please so that I know my theory/hypothesis is right or WRONG”_”_”_”_”_

Thanks!



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Old 01-18-2004, 11:02 PM   #14
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maybe your glow driver was just slowly loosing its charge, and the pro kit had a better tuned engine ?
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