R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-23-2009, 10:56 PM   #1
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 26
Default Force .28 and my bleeding fingers

I cant get this damn thing running! Starts for 2-3 seconds then dies before i get a chance to even pick up the radio. something is definately not right. I re checked the needles. HSN 3.5 turns from closed position. LSN flush. Im getting nothing! WTF!!! Not to mention my fingers bleeding from the pull start. Next step is to back over it with my truck just to make me feel better, then send the remains back to OFNA.
Any ideas?
vinrx7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-2009, 11:12 PM   #2
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Pole Position
Posts: 3,173
Trader Rating: 13 (93%+)
Default

Try to screw in the idle screw a 1/4 of a turn each time till you get a good idle

then follow the below method to get it tuned...

http://cefx.net/tips/nitro/tuning/index.php
__________________
Serpent 748 TQ | GIMAR Engines
Walter RC HObby | www.walterrchobby.com.au
BlueRC | www.bluerc.net
mrgsr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-2009, 11:40 PM   #3
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 26
Default

Ill give it a try. Might need to get a starter box. My fingers are pretty thrashed from the pullstart.
thanks.
vinrx7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2009, 03:26 AM   #4
Tech Elite
 
Foxxrocket's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Sonoma County
Posts: 2,018
Default

I'm there with you buddy. Those pullstarts can be an S.O.B to star. A starter box will make a world of difference, but you still have to tune the carb to make it run longer than a half-second.
__________________
Tamiya 416X/ Tamiya TA-05 IFS/ Losi XXX-SCT/ HPI Baja 5SC/ Tamiya M05/ Tamiya F103/ Tamiya F104/ Team Associated 10R5O/ Kyosho IGT2/
Foxxrocket is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2009, 03:47 AM   #5
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: upstate ny
Posts: 103
Send a message via Yahoo to phoenix357
Default

Force engines like a gap of about 1.3 mm opening to start. Just open it up with your radio to get it started. Then do your self a favor and BUY a starter box as pull starts suck. Buy the time you buy one ways and pull starts you could have payed for a box, oo and band aids. lol hope it helps
phoenix357 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2009, 07:58 AM   #6
Tech Elite
 
Rick Vessell's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Mars
Posts: 2,302
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Did you try a new plug?
Rick Vessell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2009, 09:20 AM   #7
Tech Elite
 
duneland's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: NW Indiana, USA
Posts: 2,403
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by vinrx7 View Post
I cant get this damn thing running! Starts for 2-3 seconds then dies before i get a chance to even pick up the radio. something is definately not right. I re checked the needles. HSN 3.5 turns from closed position. LSN flush. Im getting nothing! WTF!!! Not to mention my fingers bleeding from the pull start. Next step is to back over it with my truck just to make me feel better, then send the remains back to OFNA.
Any ideas?
Is it brand new? I have sold many rtr OFNA's with force engines. Needle settings were always in a good place for break-in except for the idle speed screw. All I ever had to do to break one in is to elevate the idle speed.
I would also caution against screwing adjustment needles all the way in. This can damage the seat. The needle position is to dependant on fuel type, temp, humity, glow plug, etc. for any particular setting to be very relevant.
duneland is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2009, 10:21 AM   #8
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Chicago Illinois USA
Posts: 9,107
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Send a message via ICQ to Solara Send a message via AIM to Solara
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by duneland View Post
Is it brand new? I have sold many rtr OFNA's with force engines. Needle settings were always in a good place for break-in except for the idle speed screw. All I ever had to do to break one in is to elevate the idle speed.
I would also caution against screwing adjustment needles all the way in. This can damage the seat. The needle position is to dependant on fuel type, temp, humity, glow plug, etc. for any particular setting to be very relevant.
Can I borrow 1 of your IGT car JUST to race MWS with Walt and Sockco? I do not care about how ugly of a paint job like Walt's car or how heavy of a IGT car like Sockco....I just don't want to own 1..any chance?

yes.....I prefer OFNA car with Force .28 engine...I have starter box and will ignore that pull starter....
Solara is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2009, 11:57 AM   #9
Tech Elite
 
Rick Vessell's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Mars
Posts: 2,302
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Solara View Post
Can I borrow 1 of your IGT car JUST to race MWS with Walt and Sockco? I do not care about how ugly of a paint job like Walt's car or how heavy of a IGT car like Sockco....I just don't want to own 1..any chance?

yes.....I prefer OFNA car with Force .28 engine...I have starter box and will ignore that pull starter....
Are you calling my car fat?
Rick Vessell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2009, 03:10 PM   #10
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 26
Default

Yes, it is brand new. Im going to get rid of the plug it came with. Ofna brand LOL! It still works but it doesnt glow red hot like the os plugs im used to. I bought a lot of band aids and am going to get myself a starter box today. Ill check the idle opening and make sure its about 1.3mm.
thanks for the help.
vinrx7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2009, 03:16 PM   #11
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 26
Default

One more thing...it would have been helpfull if Ofna includes some kind of manual of some sort with information about the engine so i know what the hell each needle does and where it is supposed to be. No info on the engine that is included in the kit is plain stupid!
vinrx7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-27-2009, 09:31 PM   #12
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 26
Default

Well, i cant use a starter box on this engine. I tried 2 dirrent starter boxes and both shops i went to told me i had to change my engine in order to use a starter box because the engine sits up high off the frame. The wheel in the box wont reach the engine.
I did however manage to get the engine fired up then to idle. I had to open up the idle screw. It was way off from factory. Now it fires right up every time. I also use a glove when using that damn pull starter.
vinrx7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-2009, 10:05 AM   #13
Tech Addict
 
CurveTracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Suburban Chicago
Posts: 504
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

1.It sounds like you need to use a shorter height set of engine mounts to get the engine lower on the chassis.
2. For a engine manual, the Ofna web site ofna.com, has a section of downloadable manuals. Use the manual for the Force 25/26 engines.
3. Heating the engine block and head with a hair dryer makes starting the engine a lot easier.
4. Double check that the fuel fitting in the carburetor provides a tight seal.
5. I have been using the Ofna Chrome Top starter box for all of my 1/8 scale cars.
__________________
"Yellow Jacket" Mugen MTX-6, Picco Torque
TeamNITRO RC Club, Lynwood, Illinois
CurveTracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-2009, 06:54 PM   #14
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 26
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by CurveTracer View Post
1.It sounds like you need to use a shorter height set of engine mounts to get the engine lower on the chassis.
2. For a engine manual, the Ofna web site ofna.com, has a section of downloadable manuals. Use the manual for the Force 25/26 engines.
3. Heating the engine block and head with a hair dryer makes starting the engine a lot easier.
4. Double check that the fuel fitting in the carburetor provides a tight seal.
5. I have been using the Ofna Chrome Top starter box for all of my 1/8 scale cars.
Thats the whole problem. Cant lower the engine closer to the chassis. Its already as low as it will go. The bottom of crankcase is already just about touching the chassis.
No worries though, i ran 4 tanks through the enginie and it starts up alot easier now. Big difference.
vinrx7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-2009, 10:16 PM   #15
Tech Elite
 
Foxxrocket's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Sonoma County
Posts: 2,018
Default

Did you try using a Kyosho multi starter? It has a much smaller wheel.
__________________
Tamiya 416X/ Tamiya TA-05 IFS/ Losi XXX-SCT/ HPI Baja 5SC/ Tamiya M05/ Tamiya F103/ Tamiya F104/ Team Associated 10R5O/ Kyosho IGT2/
Foxxrocket is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 09:39 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net