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Old 04-02-2009, 09:42 AM   #1
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Default Kyosho Birel Kart

hey guys....just got one of these kart yesterday. and fist thing im gonna tell you...this thing looks amazing!!! it really does look like the real kart in person. i will start with the pros...

1. really scale looking
2. a real kart chassis and design
3. very simple layout and everything is balanced
4. rear T-plate for dampening. it is connected to the chassis via a single screw with a spring and it pivots left and right. there are 2 set screws in either side of the pivot in which you can set how much travel you want. really cool design.
5. good ground clearance ( it looks like there isnt any but you will be surprised how much ground clearance this thing has....more than how i run my 1/10 cars)
6. front and side bumpers are hard rubber not plastic so it wont break easy
7. strong braking

now for the cons...

1. upper and lower arms are plastic and it might break easy
2. tuned pipe
3. rear bumper is just a piece of plastic rod
4. tires are just air filled. fronts dont have anything in them the rears have some sort of a thin foam.

im still breaking it in so i wont be able to comment on the engine's performance. ill do that once the break in is done. but overall i love this kart and this thing looks like real fun. check out the pics








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Old 04-02-2009, 09:45 AM   #2
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That's pretty cool how fast are they?
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Old 04-02-2009, 03:57 PM   #3
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this is the best looking r/c made for realistic. very nice
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Old 04-02-2009, 07:19 PM   #4
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keep us updated on how it is....my LHS...wants 300 for it....i bet i can get it cheaper somewhere else...
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Old 04-03-2009, 07:35 PM   #5
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Gotta get MIP to make a stinger pipe for that!!!!
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Old 04-03-2009, 07:40 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastharry™ View Post
Gotta get MIP to make a stinger pipe for that!!!!

ITS A TOY ITLL BE FINE..cool deal there...i was looking at something similiar as well recentlly..
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Old 04-06-2009, 07:35 AM   #7
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Keep us updated on these karts. Almost bought one. Waiting for some reviews. Waiting to see opinions on the handling and how fast they run. Also, are they one speed? BTW Amainhobbies have them for $289 I think and you can find a $25 off code with a little searching.
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Old 04-06-2009, 11:19 PM   #8
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Hello everyone,

New here and asking for help.

I got mine delivered about the same time. Recently on a very warm day, I completed the break-in with about 4 tanks on rich setting on 10% nitro.

The problem is that I can't get the GZ15 to idle correctly. I played around with the HSN, LSN and idle screw with no progress.

After the break-in, the setting is like this:

Idle mixture screw is out 2 turns-anything beyond 2 and 3/4 turns it spews out fuel and needle valve set at 3 turns.

With this setting, clutch engages prematurely and the kart rolls, so the application of brake is the only way to make it stand still.

I read in another forum that when the back wheels are aloft during idle, the clutch engages and they're supposed to spin, but not enough for the kart to move?

@Jun, can you confirm that yours does the same?

FYI: Factory recommends: 3 and 1/2 turns to 4 and 1/2 turns out on High and 3 turns out on low.

I don't have anyone local that I can turn to. I emailed an rc club nearby offering to pay for their time looking into it and a nitro engine professional on craiglist, but they were both too 'busy' to help.

Can someone please offer any suggestions, advice or help in the right direction to getting the right idle setting?

TYIA
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Old 04-07-2009, 06:18 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eNitro View Post
Hello everyone,

New here and asking for help.

I got mine delivered about the same time. Recently on a very warm day, I completed the break-in with about 4 tanks on rich setting on 10% nitro.

The problem is that I can't get the GZ15 to idle correctly. I played around with the HSN, LSN and idle screw with no progress.

After the break-in, the setting is like this:

Idle mixture screw is out 2 turns-anything beyond 2 and 3/4 turns it spews out fuel and needle valve set at 3 turns.

With this setting, clutch engages prematurely and the kart rolls, so the application of brake is the only way to make it stand still.

I read in another forum that when the back wheels are aloft during idle, the clutch engages and they're supposed to spin, but not enough for the kart to move?

@Jun, can you confirm that yours does the same?

FYI: Factory recommends: 3 and 1/2 turns to 4 and 1/2 turns out on High and 3 turns out on low.

I don't have anyone local that I can turn to. I emailed an rc club nearby offering to pay for their time looking into it and a nitro engine professional on craiglist, but they were both too 'busy' to help.

Can someone please offer any suggestions, advice or help in the right direction to getting the right idle setting?

TYIA



what kind of fuel are you running?..
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Old 04-07-2009, 10:11 AM   #10
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try to back out the screw that actually limits how much the carb is opened when at idle, than try to richen low end a little bit if that doesnt work.also check the clutch springs if those two dont work, check for equal tension on both, and decent tension, you might have a defective spring as well, like u stated if clutch is premature might be a problem right there, also make sure its on the right way<direction etc..>
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Old 04-08-2009, 05:16 AM   #11
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Hi fastharry, I don't exactly know what fuel I am running because I bought the bottle, poured it into a jerry can and dumped the bottle it came in, but I am sure it's a synthetic and castor blend and 10% nitro. Kyosho recommends 20% for this kart, but I am thinking I am not in competition so I go with 10 only.

Do you see anything wrong with using 10% for break-in and the first few tanks? Please let me know because I don't have much experience with nitro.

Hi TommyBlazin, this morning, I heeded to your advice and dismantled and inspected the clutch system. I couldn’t see anything unusual with it. But two things were noted:

Firstly, the roller bearing part No. 109 that’s fitted to the end of the crankshaft extension within the clutch bell is made of metal bearings and a plastic cylinder that houses them. This part looks like a one-way bearing but the clutch bell when sitting on it can rotate either direction.

Is this part supposed to be bi-rotational or rotate only in one direction?

Secondly, when the engine is fired, the crankshaft rotates anti-clockwise but the clutch shoe ends (the end that point and swing outward) is in the same direction as the engine rotation.

This is my first nitro car and my experience with cars are obviously very limited so I am not absolutely sure whether the factory has assembled the clutch shoes in the opposite direction to what it’s suppose to be. However, according to the diagrams in the maintenance manual, the assembly is correct.

This is puzzling to me because according to my TT Raptor 50 and Raptor 90, the metal clutch shoe ends face the opposite direction to crankshaft direction and I’ve never had any idling problems with either helicopter.

Notwithstanding the above, I proceeded to grease the inside of the clutch bell and clutch shoes where it touches the bell, hoping this will at least reduce the extremity of the idling problem. I know this is not a step a professional would recommend, but I’ve run out of options.

After re-assembling everything, I took the car out with all necessary tools, tissues and rations in anticipation of another long day in the blistering sun. By the way, my back is still sunburnt and sore from the other day, but soldier on I must.

I richened the HSN to 3 and 1/2 turns out and LSN by 1/8 turn, fired up the GZ15, held on brake, but rear wheels were barely able to stop rotating and set it on ground. I released the brake and the kart rolled a very quick walking pace. Not content with the result, I placed it back on bench, leaned the LSN by 1/16, and screwed out the idle adjustment also by 1/16.

Back on ground, the kart rolled a little slower, so back on bench. This time leaned the LSN by another 1/16 and screwed out the idle adjustment screw just a little and then back on ground. This time, the kart rolled a quick walking pace but will stop without brake once the steering is fully deflected so this tells you the amount of energy at my idle speed setting.

After several attempts to reduce the idling speed on bench, I think it’s the best I’ll ever get.

Come to think of it, it wasn't such a long day after all! Only god knows how my kart will perform on the tracks.

Thank you.
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Old 04-08-2009, 05:39 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eNitro View Post
Hi fastharry, I don't exactly know what fuel I am running because I bought the bottle, poured it into a jerry can and dumped the bottle it came in, but I am sure it's a synthetic and castor blend and 10% nitro. Kyosho recommends 20% for this kart, but I am thinking I am not in competition so I go with 10 only.

Do you see anything wrong with using 10% for break-in and the first few tanks? Please let me know because I don't have much experience with nitro.

Hi TommyBlazin, this morning, I heeded to your advice and dismantled and inspected the clutch system. I couldn’t see anything unusual with it. But two things were noted:

Firstly, the roller bearing part No. 109 that’s fitted to the end of the crankshaft extension within the clutch bell is made of metal bearings and a plastic cylinder that houses them. This part looks like a one-way bearing but the clutch bell when sitting on it can rotate either direction.

Is this part supposed to be bi-rotational or rotate only in one direction?

Secondly, when the engine is fired, the crankshaft rotates anti-clockwise but the clutch shoe ends (the end that point and swing outward) is in the same direction as the engine rotation.

This is my first nitro car and my experience with cars are obviously very limited so I am not absolutely sure whether the factory has assembled the clutch shoes in the opposite direction to what it’s suppose to be. However, according to the diagrams in the maintenance manual, the assembly is correct.

This is puzzling to me because according to my TT Raptor 50 and Raptor 90, the metal clutch shoe ends face the opposite direction to crankshaft direction and I’ve never had any idling problems with either helicopter.

Notwithstanding the above, I proceeded to grease the inside of the clutch bell and clutch shoes where it touches the bell, hoping this will at least reduce the extremity of the idling problem. I know this is not a step a professional would recommend, but I’ve run out of options.

After re-assembling everything, I took the car out with all necessary tools, tissues and rations in anticipation of another long day in the blistering sun. By the way, my back is still sunburnt and sore from the other day, but soldier on I must.

I richened the HSN to 3 and 1/2 turns out and LSN by 1/8 turn, fired up the GZ15, held on brake, but rear wheels were barely able to stop rotating and set it on ground. I released the brake and the kart rolled a very quick walking pace. Not content with the result, I placed it back on bench, leaned the LSN by 1/16, and screwed out the idle adjustment also by 1/16.

Back on ground, the kart rolled a little slower, so back on bench. This time leaned the LSN by another 1/16 and screwed out the idle adjustment screw just a little and then back on ground. This time, the kart rolled a quick walking pace but will stop without brake once the steering is fully deflected so this tells you the amount of energy at my idle speed setting.

After several attempts to reduce the idling speed on bench, I think it’s the best I’ll ever get.

Come to think of it, it wasn't such a long day after all! Only god knows how my kart will perform on the tracks.

Thank you.




Hi E...


I was actually looking for the brand and amount of oil content....Let me know that, and we will proceed from there....
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Old 04-08-2009, 08:29 PM   #13
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fastharry like I said, I am using a different container from the original bottle.

If it's any indication it's orange in color that I bought about 3 or 4 years ago. I know it's not much to go with.

Do you think the fuel has past its shelf life? It's still quite potent. Sorry to sound naive, but I am not an experienced racer.

OK I got an idea. I am going to email the LHS that I bought it from and hopefully they can help in identifying and shedding some light to what fuel oil content I am using.

Again, thanks alot for your continuing help.
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Old 04-08-2009, 08:31 PM   #14
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If you bought the fuel 3 or 4 years ago, you need to buy new fuel. Fuel does go bad.
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Old 04-08-2009, 08:44 PM   #15
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I am running it with 25% fuel. The engine (like all kyosho RTR mode's) is very stable and easy to tune. Speed is a little slow then the spada 09 which I think is OK consider it does not have a 2 speed. But I hear 2 speed is on it way. The only issue I find with the kart is the brake which only have a round cam press against the brake disk (fiber glass). Without any brake pad it melt the plastic mount. I am thinking of putting some brake pads on mine when I find the time to do it. But I sure it is very cool if a few of them run together.
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