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Old 12-03-2003, 03:38 AM   #16
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Originally posted by sparksy


<SNIP>

The part where the carb window is, and that the crank spins in. It is bored to a fly shit over 11mm on the RS, and a bee's dick over 11.5mm on the NS.

<SNIP>
All these technical terms . . . .
What he means is there's a poofteenth difference in size.
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Old 12-03-2003, 04:02 AM   #17
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Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
All these technical terms . . . .
What he means is there's a poofteenth difference in size.

Yeah, sorry for all the technical terms... The instructors I had when I did my machinist apprenticeship tried to beat it out of me too.


Just to clariffy.. a bee's dick is an imperial measurement, its metric equilivent is a fly shit. But a poofteenth is universal, but its a smidgen bigger than both the flyshit and the bee's dick.
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Old 12-03-2003, 04:08 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally posted by sparksy
Yeah, sorry for all the technical terms... The instructors I had when I did my machinist apprenticeship tried to beat it out of me too.


Just to clariffy.. a bee's dick is an imperial measurement, its metric equilivent is a fly shit. But a poofteenth is universal, but its a smidgen bigger than both the flyshit and the bee's dick.
you are making simple thing complicated !
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Old 12-03-2003, 04:43 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally posted by sparksy
Yeah, sorry for all the technical terms... The instructors I had when I did my machinist apprenticeship tried to beat it out of me too.


Just to clariffy.. a bee's dick is an imperial measurement, its metric equilivent is a fly shit. But a poofteenth is universal, but its a smidgen bigger than both the flyshit and the bee's dick.
Is the poofteenth sort of like the english standard measurement?
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Old 12-03-2003, 06:42 PM   #20
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i tried starting my rs12s5 last night, after making adjustments on the neddles amazingly it idled well. i only ran 1 tank in our garage and i would say the crankshaft of mt12 really works in rs12s5. i just hope that it will run long without overheating or staling when i run it in the race track.
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Old 12-03-2003, 07:04 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally posted by thefuzzclub
i tried starting my rs12s5 last night, after making adjustments on the neddles amazingly it idled well. i only ran 1 tank in our garage and i would say the crankshaft of mt12 really works in rs12s5. i just hope that it will run long without overheating or staling when i run it in the race track.
Cool. Thanks for the feedback.
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Old 12-07-2003, 05:48 PM   #22
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tested in our race track and had a hard time running it continously, after half tank i tried checking the idle but the engine will die the moment i brake the car. i'm not sure if the low end needle is too reach or lean? need your help...
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Old 12-07-2003, 06:33 PM   #23
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You're still running the NTC3? You may want to check the clutch as I believe this problem could be related to the clutch springs in the clutchbell. I think the clutch shoes are rubbing on the clutchbell constantly and therefore engine idling is difficult. Just a guess.
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Old 12-07-2003, 07:43 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
You're still running the NTC3? You may want to check the clutch as I believe this problem could be related to the clutch springs in the clutchbell. I think the clutch shoes are rubbing on the clutchbell constantly and therefore engine idling is difficult. Just a guess.
InitialD,

Its my V1r this time, rs12s5 with the mt 12 crankshaft. very strong punch i would say same with the original crankshaft. but i can't make it idle after running a few laps on the track. top end is still rich so it's not overheating. i think adjustments on low end and idle stop screw will solve it, i just can't do it right...
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