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Old 05-24-2007, 03:35 AM   #1366
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Default Shocks

Hi Guys

After I built my shocks, filled oil, removed air bubbles and assembled them, I found that my rebound on the shocks are not that good. When compared to my other RC cars, the Evolva shocks don't rebound that well - takes long to come back to full length position.

Is this normal for the Evolva shocks or do I need to do something else?

Also, when I filled in the oil, I filled to the point where the diaphram gets wet and stopped, as I assumed that was the most the shock could take.

Please let me know what you guys think?

Thanks

Acid
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Old 05-24-2007, 03:47 AM   #1367
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Default Front shafts

Hi Guys

One more question:

After I assembled the car I find that my front shafts (dog bones) have allot of movement in them. I used a small piece of fuel tubing on either side to take away all the movement, for now.

Can anyone recommend good set of front CVD shafts? Is the Kyosho one good or is there a better one that I should try and get?

Thanks

Acid
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Old 05-24-2007, 07:29 AM   #1368
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Acid,

I don't think lack of rebound is a bad thing, as long as their is no air, and the shocks rebound equally, you should be fine. The less rebound, the more the car will turn, this is one of the reasons we almost always run the soft bladders.

The kyosho CVD's are the best, very durable.

-A
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Old 05-24-2007, 11:26 AM   #1369
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NitroHead
Fellow Evolvanians,

Has anyone tried the complete '07 conversion kit yet?

Let us know what you think.

Thanks!
I tried the conversion this Sunday. The car felt like it had the same amount of steering (a lot), but the rear end stayed more planted. It felt faster, and easier to drive. My laptimes were better with the conversion by about 1-2 tenths of a second with less nitro. Probably could be more if I stepped on the engine. Maintenance is also easier with those holes in the top deck. The car also looks meaner with the conversion.
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Old 05-25-2007, 01:10 AM   #1370
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaron_buran
Acid,

I don't think lack of rebound is a bad thing, as long as their is no air, and the shocks rebound equally, you should be fine. The less rebound, the more the car will turn, this is one of the reasons we almost always run the soft bladders.

The kyosho CVD's are the best, very durable.

-A
Thanks Aaron, appreciate it.

How do you setup the clutch that comes with the kit? I have setup the Serpent Centax clutches before but this one works differently.

Anyone got information n where to shim for end play vs clutch gap?

Thanks

Acid
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Old 05-25-2007, 06:04 AM   #1371
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Acid,

If you haven't already, check this page:
http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/techtips/Evolva.asp

Josh wrote these 'tech tips' in referance to the '05 car but most of his info still rings true today as well.

Also, try reading through everything here as well:

http://www.empirercracing.com/blog.html

The guys at Empire document and publish their testing better than anyone....I know that several of the blog entries on this page discuss clutch set up and testing.

- Steve
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Old 05-25-2007, 11:08 PM   #1372
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Just bought the WC team kit and it seems like my rear body mount is binding where the pins are. I trimmed them like the manual but still binding. What do I need to do to fix this. I'm using the outer holes
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Old 05-25-2007, 11:37 PM   #1373
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gashuffer
Just bought the WC team kit and it seems like my rear body mount is binding where the pins are. I trimmed them like the manual but still binding. What do I need to do to fix this. I'm using the outer holes
You need the 2007 convertion kit to solve that problem or Go ORANGE
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Old 05-25-2007, 11:43 PM   #1374
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Team Kamikaze
You need the 2007 convertion kit to solve that problem or Go ORANGE
Car is great.
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Old 05-26-2007, 05:11 AM   #1375
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sps3172
Acid,

If you haven't already, check this page:
http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/techtips/Evolva.asp

Josh wrote these 'tech tips' in referance to the '05 car but most of his info still rings true today as well.

Also, try reading through everything here as well:

http://www.empirercracing.com/blog.html

The guys at Empire document and publish their testing better than anyone....I know that several of the blog entries on this page discuss clutch set up and testing.

- Steve
Thanks sps3172, thanks for the info.

I have gone through the info but they still don't answer my questions:

Where do you put shims to adjust the clutch gap AND

Where do you put shims to adjust the end play

Where on the clutch - on thrust shaft or above the clutch spring nut...

The info tells you what settings to go for, which is great but how do you get to those settings is my question

Thanks

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Old 05-26-2007, 05:20 AM   #1376
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at evolva's manual tell you where is the centax gap
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Old 05-26-2007, 05:51 AM   #1377
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Put most simply, the shims on the outside adjust the gap between the clutch pad and clutch bell. This is set first with no inner bearing in place. The shims on the inside are then used to adjust the freeplay of the clutchbell. When you end up checking your clutch gap at the track (every few runs), you normally end up moving a shim from inside the bell to outside the bell. Does this make sense?
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Old 05-26-2007, 08:25 AM   #1378
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Acid, try this link.

http://xrcmag.idigitaledition.com/issue.php?issue=4

It is located on page 164 to 168.

It shows where the shims are placed.
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Old 05-28-2007, 02:12 AM   #1379
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RRRoy23
Acid, try this link.

http://xrcmag.idigitaledition.com/issue.php?issue=4

It is located on page 164 to 168.

It shows where the shims are placed.
Thanks guys, appreciate the info.

The article was great reading and yes it answered all of my questions and also showed me things that I normally never do!!! Thanks...

Thanks guys.

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Old 05-28-2007, 04:28 AM   #1380
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Dear all, I am new here, can anyone recommend me which Engine is suitable for Evolva 2005? I am thinking of getting OS but not too sure which model. Thanks.
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