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Old 02-07-2007, 05:13 PM   #1126
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Correct, but instead of grease I use heavy oil, specifically gear oil. It is messy but works well, and doesn't require constant assembly/disassembly. 2 drops on each CVD every other time it hits the track. Back in my snake days, this was what they used.
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Old 02-07-2007, 05:20 PM   #1127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaron_buran
Correct, but instead of grease I use heavy oil, specifically gear oil. It is messy but works well, and doesn't require constant assembly/disassembly. 2 drops on each CVD every other time it hits the track. Back in my snake days, this was what they used.
Humm...we've been running the aluminum axles for over a year and have been use a Mil Spec graphite low tack/hi temp grease and we still have wear on the pins - Scott doesn't even hit anything. Are you talking about the aluminum or steel axles?


(Must be my damn clutch set-up )

Last edited by Rich Browne; 02-07-2007 at 05:35 PM.
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Old 02-07-2007, 06:08 PM   #1128
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Just a note: If you do run aluminum axles - you must ....... They wear quickly. You must clean, disassemble and re-grease after every one hour of operation. Even then, the small pins wear very quickly and egg shape the holes in the aluminum. I would only recommend the aluminum axles for larger races. No reason to spend the loads of extra cash for club events.

I have been assembling mine minus the set screw to hold the small pin. This allows the the small pin to move independent of the axle and the pin not as likely to be rotating in the aluminum hole under driving loads. The bearing slides over the pin holes so the pin is captive and will not fall out unless you really trash the car. I lube mine with Moly Disulfied CV axle grease...... pack some in the joint before the race weekend....repeat before next race weekend.
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Old 02-07-2007, 06:25 PM   #1129
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The oil works on either... You just have to do it regularly.

I ran the alum set that Rick gave me almost all summer, the holes started to get a little sloppy toward the end of the year. All I used was oil. Ran the same set all year. The pins started to wear a bit too.

Dave's seem to wear a little faster, I think this is because the hole for the pin is drilled after they are hard coated. Not sure if he has changed his process since then. The set that rick made as well as the kyosho versions are hard coated at the end of the manufacturing process.

Yeah it must be the clutch! Or the 4 degrees of rear toe?
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Old 02-07-2007, 07:07 PM   #1130
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Go fast, measure later --
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Old 02-08-2007, 01:00 AM   #1131
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Which shock is better MRX4 or Evolva's?
Does the MRX4 Shocks fits on a Evolva?
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Old 02-08-2007, 01:07 AM   #1132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nikoskar
Which shock is better MRX4 or Evolva's?
Does the MRX4 Shocks fits on a Evolva?
If you have an Evolva why would you want to change the shocks?
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Old 02-08-2007, 05:07 AM   #1133
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Cause there are more than my TF-5.At the bottom.What is your opinion?

I am verry confused with these shocks.I have changed almost every part of all my shocks and i still loosing oil.
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Old 02-08-2007, 06:34 AM   #1134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nikoskar
Cause there are more than my TF-5.At the bottom.What is your opinion?

I am verry confused with these shocks.I have changed almost every part of all my shocks and i still loosing oil.

We (Empire) have had great results with the Kyosho shocks. Honestly, we don't have any shock issues (Ten cars run directly under the Empire banner). Where are yours leaking? That may shed some light on he problem you are experiencing.
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Old 02-08-2007, 06:48 AM   #1135
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Agreed.

Here are a couple tips if the shock is leaking at the top. After you fill the shock with oil, place the bladder on the shock first without the alum cap, let the oil ooze out, then screw on the alum cap over the bladder. Do not over tighten the cap, I have seen folks put the cap on too tight and it pinches the bladder, causing leaking.

I have rarely seen the bottoms leak. I only run one O-ring for less drag, and mine still don't leak. To use one o-ring, insert the black spacer instead of the first o-ring, then the second o-ring goes in, then the plastic, then the clip. I am not sure if the kit includes the black spacers, but if you buy the rebuild kits, the black spacer is included.

One other thing is to always put some oil on the the threaded shock end before pushing it through, the threads can sometimes damage the o-rings. Some guys use green slime for this step.

You are doing something wrong, let us know exactly where it is leaking.
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Old 02-08-2007, 03:44 PM   #1136
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I have been running this car since it was new and have had my own share of shock problems. Namely the original '03 shock bodies had poor QC and the machined groove for the clip was way too shallow. Because of this, the internals would blow out often no matter how much or how little rebound you build them with. This has since been improved greatly with the rev'ed shock bodies. I have spent a bunch of money on stupid shock bodies and seen widely varying examples but the new ones are great and the clip dar near disappears in the groove.

As for leaking from the top, yep, too tight and they'll leak from the bladders. I ran Mugen bladders for the longest time as I feel they are more supple and seal better and the shock action is better for bumpy tracks like ours. I haven't tried the Kyosho white ones but would like to.

Regarding the Mugen shocks, yes the fronts work and I have used them in a pinch. Eye-to-eye they measure out the same but you will have to change the mounting hardware to bolt 'em up. I have not tried the Mugen rears and my Kyosho rears have always been solid.

On o-rings, thanks for the tip Aaron. I wanted to switch to single o-ring and at the same time wondered what the heck that black spacer was for I have used stock clear and they are ok but I always felt they were a little on the tight side. I also like the MIP blue and GS because they offered a little less friction. I currently have been using the AE red rubber ones and like them and they are easy to get and soft.
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Old 02-08-2007, 04:29 PM   #1137
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John (Fraz),

Try the optional Kyosho "x o-rings" - they are the bomb! I'll show you a set next race at the RAMS. Combined with the titanium shafts - sliding heaven, baby!

Rich
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Old 02-08-2007, 05:44 PM   #1138
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The only issue I have had with Delta/Kyosho shocks are the black bladders rupturing if you hit a curb or berm. Oil will be pumped to the top side of the bladder and this may be some of the leaking some folks are seeing as it very easy for the oil to get past the upper shock mount. If your using black bladders they need to be checked daily.....if they have oil on the top side toss em and replace for new. I have one car with Kyosho white bladders and many races with zero ruptures so far. White bladders can be considered an more permanent solution.
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Old 02-08-2007, 05:49 PM   #1139
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For a really "soft" set-up read more traction - use the Migen clear bladders.
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Old 02-08-2007, 11:35 PM   #1140
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maybe i tight them too hard.I'll try to tight little next time.


Thanks for your answers guys.

Regards,

Nick
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