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Old 01-02-2007, 07:31 AM   #1036
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Try running more rear toe and camber, with the standard rear a-arm position. 3 degrees of toe and camber. I always run one step firmer rear springs, if running whites on the front, run blacks on the back. If silvers on the front, run white on the back, this will make the car exit tighter. Also make sure you don't have too much front camber and caster, that will make the car loose. Also try adding shims to the top of the rear upright (more camber gain). Also what body are you running? From what I hear the worlds had a ton of traction, which is probably not like what it is like club racing. What shock positions are you running, the more inclined (vertical) you make the shocks, the tighter the car will be.
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Old 01-02-2007, 08:40 AM   #1037
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Hi Aaron, the traction is ok but nothing like it was at the worlds. I run 0.5 deg camber on the front short wheelbase mid shock position at the front 550wt ky oil mugen white springs and 9deg caster 0 deg toe C akman with 2mm bump steer the and 35 or 37 shore tirers flat v1s front sway bar 1mm scrub t1 spacers on 2005 hangers 0deg nuckles and 254mm wide. The rear of the car i use the 7-3.5in lower arm blocks 1.5 to 2 deg toe in 1.5 to 2 deg camber 0.5mm scrub 35 or 37 shore tirers outer or inner hole on top A arms at bulkhead std iner hole on nuckle raised 5mm shock position 1 700wt ky oil mugen white spring std bladers front and rear dome efra body 5mm over bumper and about 5mm flap std rear body mount set up. My prob is the car has to much steer for me It could be me just over driving it some times its rearly good but most of the time its realy on a knife edge and it costs me lots of time when i have to roll through the corners rather than driving throught them I have changed my set up complety form the last few race meets at the end of last year i use to run a kimbrow style of set up and it was good but i know there is so much more there in the chassis but realy not shore were to start. I would class the track as low to mid traction it comes up quite good but during a race meet Just last weekend i ran in a new engine for the start of this seasion of racing i had the same set up as above but inner top bulk head holes on the rear top a arms and it felt prity dam good and 37 shore tirers just geting a tiny but of sliding in the rear mid corner. Thanks for your help I much apreate it Best Regards Jeremy.
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Old 01-02-2007, 09:28 AM   #1038
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Get yourself a parma audi R10, I think you find it much easier to drive.

When I ran the dome, I ran a big wing on it to settle it down, we made some wickerbills that had a flap on them that was double in height. But I think the parma will be better.

Ever since I switched to the parma body, the dome feels very twichy.

Go back to 500 wt oil, I think heavier oil while making it less twitchy hurts your traction problem.

Utilize the highest shock setting position in the front, with the kyosho silver springs. Put the rear shock position in the 2nd from the bottom, either Mugen white or the new Kyosho white. After you change the the rear toe and camber, if it's still loose go up to the 3rd from bottom on the rear tower.

Run the fixed rear bar, unless you can get an empire bar. The Kyosho blade bar has too much slop in it, and causes the car to be loose.

If the car is still loose, start standing the front bar up a little at a time.

Also make sure you have pleny of ride height.

37's should be easier to drive than 35's, if you are comfortable with 37's stick with it. But if the traction is that low, you would be better off with 35's.
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Old 01-02-2007, 12:48 PM   #1039
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Aaron, YGPM
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Old 01-02-2007, 01:00 PM   #1040
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sirio2127
The rear of the car i use the 7-3.5in lower arm blocks 1.5 to 2 deg toe in 1.5 to 2 deg camber 0.5mm scrub 35 or 37 shore tirers outer or inner hole on top A arms at bulkhead std iner hole on nuckle raised 5mm .

Run the upper arm using the outer hole at the bulkhead and the outer hole at the knuckle with a 2mm spacer under it. This seems to help the rear catch up with the front traction wise. You may have to trim a little of the inside of the tires to keep them form rubbing the upper arm when doing this.
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Old 01-02-2007, 07:40 PM   #1041
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Thanks Guys for the tips, Ill let you know what i find sute's my driving style after the weekend here. I will try some new bodies as well and see how they go. I found with the dome its great all round but some tracks and the amount of flap you run can realy slow you down on the stright its not to bad at brendale but there is a new track at the gold coast and it has a much longer stright and i realy noticed it there because its so agressave at the rear the dome can create so much drag and make so much down force it realy saped my stright line speed alot. Its just hard to find a buddy to try things with as i'm the only guy in my state who races an evolva when i go down south this year for the state titles ill be right as there is 3 or 4 drivers there with a tone of exprence in evovla car set up. This year was just a feel out year i raced off road 8th buggy befor that this year ill ready to tighten the screws I just need a car thats ezy to handle. Thanks guys Ill try some new things and se what happens and ill tell you all about it I'm confadant there will be an 8th worlds at brendale in the coming years for shore. Best Regards Jeremy.Ps Aaron are you still running a sirio pr pro evo2 sti? man i love that engine you might of known but there is ment to be a new on-road 21 sti soon as well.
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Old 01-03-2007, 12:23 AM   #1042
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Default Rear upper a arm position

So you use only the outer hole on hub carrier and using the same inner hole on the rear block? Also how many mm shims you recommend to use. I will say 5 mm will be a better choice, will it?


Quote:
Originally Posted by aaron_buran
Sorry, I missed your PM, just responded to it.

All, there is a new rear upper a-arm for the Evolva now available at Kyosho America. This a-arm is shorter and allows you to run it in the outer hole in the bulkhead. This change should give the car more rear side bite, though additional rear camber gain.

I'll post the part number shortly.
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Old 01-03-2007, 01:32 AM   #1043
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Hi Slide, I use the outer hole on the bulkhead top rear arm and the std inner hole on the rear hub raised 5mm. The new knosho shorter top a arms will get the camber angles needed for most tracks with the std 05 a arms in the outer bulkhead holes you are limeted to around 2.5 deg camber. I think there fmw-306 the new parts are light weight wide offset front axles fmw-301 ,light weight front axles fmw-302 ,light weight rear axles fmw-303 and steel pinions fmw-304-15, fmw-304-16, fmw-304-17, fmw-305-19, fmw-305-20, fmw-305-21. If some one can find these parts at a online shop let me know asap i want them all. Regards Jeremy.
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Old 01-03-2007, 06:26 AM   #1044
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Slide,

I haven't run them yet, first time out will be in Ft. Myer's. Can't run nitro in Cleveland during the winter...

I plan on running the same as I always do, 5mm on top the upright with the new arm. Because I think the short arm will also make the car change direction faster as well tighten the car up getting in the middle of a 180, I have always thought the rear didn't have enough camber gain in it's original configuration.

If the car is still tight at Ft. Myer's I will take some out, after reducing the rear toe and throwing more rear bar at the car. The new a-arm length is darn close to what the MRX-4 a-arm length is.

Sirio,

Now I get it, your running on the outer hole on the upright, with the old a-arm on the outer hole. While I have't tried it, I don't think that is where you want to be.

I'll check with Kyosho on the new parts, and let everyone know.
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Old 01-03-2007, 07:52 AM   #1045
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Sweet Aaron, yes i am only running the outer hole on the bulk head with the std rear a arms and still the inner hole on the rear upright for a low traction track it gains alot of side traction the advantages of the new shorter a arm is more camber can be used rater than a max of around 2.5 deg I have already got some peole trying some of your idears so I am shore it will come good it is a kyosho after all. he he Regards Jeremy.
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Old 01-03-2007, 10:23 AM   #1046
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The new parts are available at Kyosho America, I would call Robert at Ashford, if he hasn't ordered them already, he can get them to you ASAP.
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Old 01-04-2007, 02:11 AM   #1047
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Thanks i will do that Best Regards Jeremy.
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Old 01-04-2007, 04:21 AM   #1048
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Thanks Aaron. I got the part numbers from you before I got them from Kyosho?

They will be on next weeks stock order.

So you getting to sleep through the night with your new family addition yet? Kyosho has some nice 1/18th stuff as it's never too early to start them out.
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Old 01-04-2007, 06:38 AM   #1049
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The new baby is great, he is slowing getting closer to sleeping through the night. I should be back at The Gate soon, running my Kyosho touring car.

I have been exercising the little guy's trigger finger, and making him watch my Ray Wood videos with me!

Yeah, these new parts snuck up on us, usually we get them and the info right away.
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Old 01-04-2007, 01:27 PM   #1050
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Hey AARON

Are those new axles standard type or do kyosho have them in univerals yet?
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