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Old 03-22-2005, 09:43 PM   #796
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Glad to see people posting in here..I missed a lot today.
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Old 03-22-2005, 11:38 PM   #797
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Nitrolover I can't comment on the Evola but I have just run in and had 1 race metting with the OS VZ-R ver. II and all I have to say is this motor is really strong and reliable, and can mix it with the Nova based motors. Just follow the book instructions for break in and you'll be cheering all the way to the finish line.
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Old 03-23-2005, 12:46 AM   #798
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quote:
Originally posted by Rich Browne
Scrub Radius. This is distance from the center of the tire to the point where a line down the kingpin axis intersects the ground. Along with caster this affects wheel lift during cornering. Scrub radius is set using spacers on the stub axle. It has an effect on turn in and push on power.


Hey Rich, I would like to know what specific effects different configurations have on the front end.

Can you be a little more specific?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 03-23-2005, 07:22 AM   #799
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I'll keep it real breif: The further this wheel is from the centreline of the car (and therefor the center of inertia), the greater the turning moment, and the more likely the car is the overcome the grip of the tire on the track . This causes the back to break away - oversteer when accelerating and understeer when braking. Remember,you are using the front end to effect the traction in the rear of the car - you must find the perfect "tricycle" effect on the inside rear wheel. To little "lift" = push, to much "lift" = oversteer. If is a fine balance to achieve
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Old 03-23-2005, 12:43 PM   #800
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thanks for the heads up on the engine finchy

the car should be here tomorrow, cant wait to run it!! its been raining all week here so there will be something to do inside finally.
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Old 03-23-2005, 06:59 PM   #801
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Default front roll centre

does the front roll centre adjustable ? if I am correct, Kyosho has the aluminum front A arm holder, this hop up can provide different roll centre adjustment. any one who try that.
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Old 03-23-2005, 09:27 PM   #802
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The Shimo front upper mounts include shims to raise and lower them. I think adding shims under the mounts will calm the steering down a bit.
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Old 03-23-2005, 10:51 PM   #803
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Quote:
Originally posted by C Verano
The Shimo front upper mounts include shims to raise and lower them. I think adding shims under the mounts will calm the steering down a bit.
it seems that removing the shims in the shimo mounts will give fast steeling response. Chris, have you tried the different setting by taking or adding shims ? I tried adding the shims but the car did not give a fast response
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Old 03-24-2005, 12:47 AM   #804
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Quote:
I'll keep it real breif: The further this wheel is from the centreline of the car (and therefor the center of inertia), the greater the turning moment, and the more likely the car is the overcome the grip of the tire on the track . This causes the back to break away - oversteer when accelerating and understeer when braking. Remember,you are using the front end to effect the traction in the rear of the car - you must find the perfect "tricycle" effect on the inside rear wheel. To little "lift" = push, to much "lift" = oversteer. If is a fine balance to achieve
Awesome Rich!

This explains alot...

So in other words, placing the shims on the inside of the upright (closer to the bulkhead) puts the centerline of the wheel closer to the centerline of the kingpin thereby giving you understeer, and vice versa...

This is an awesome car!!!!
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Old 03-24-2005, 12:49 AM   #805
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Almost forgot... Thanks Rich!
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Old 03-24-2005, 09:22 AM   #806
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Quote:
Originally posted by speedy100
... I tried adding the shims but the car did not give a fast response
I think Chris said adding shims will "calm" the steering down- less steering.
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Old 03-24-2005, 09:39 AM   #807
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Quote:
Originally posted by speedy100
it seems that removing the shims in the shimo mounts will give fast steeling response. Chris, have you tried the different setting by taking or adding shims ? I tried adding the shims but the car did not give a fast response
I have not played with the shims to much. I believe Rich has been experimenting with them.
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Old 03-24-2005, 04:49 PM   #808
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By adding or removing shims you move the roll center/instantaneous center. It does have an effect. But, so does six other adjustments. You need to figure how large a change you want to make and to what ends you are making that change. When you start adjusting roll centers - you had better be in the top five - the changes are very small.
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Old 03-25-2005, 11:14 PM   #809
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got the car together today, its about 95% done, just need to wire the stuff up and all the little things straightend up. It went together fairly well. Only dellema i had was with the tranny. when the car was together i realized a bearing had been left out, it was one of the two in the 2 speed, forgot to put on the first one after the shoes. But when i got it back together the one-way hub would lock up both ways, forward and backwards. what i figured out was the washer that screws onto the end was binding with the collar and one-way housing. so i put a small shim in between them and it feels good now. just found that odd

waiting for a body and trying to find a reciever pack that will work, what are you all using? are you useing a switch for the battery or connecting it directly and leaving the reciever open?

thanks again for the help!
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Old 03-26-2005, 09:43 AM   #810
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Quote:
Originally posted by nitrolover
got the car together today, its about 95% done, just need to wire the stuff up and all the little things straightend up. It went together fairly well. Only dellema i had was with the tranny. when the car was together i realized a bearing had been left out, it was one of the two in the 2 speed, forgot to put on the first one after the shoes. But when i got it back together the one-way hub would lock up both ways, forward and backwards. what i figured out was the washer that screws onto the end was binding with the collar and one-way housing. so i put a small shim in between them and it feels good now. just found that odd

waiting for a body and trying to find a reciever pack that will work, what are you all using? are you useing a switch for the battery or connecting it directly and leaving the reciever open?

thanks again for the help!
The binding you have maybe because the 2-speed shaft needs to slide over toward the spur gears.You have it set towards the pipe side of the car to far. If you slide it over, you should not need the shim.

The car uses a 5 cell AA pack for a battery...I don't use a switch, they seem to fail in 1/8th scale cars.
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