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Old 09-24-2004, 12:00 AM   #601
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Originally posted by jnims29
One more question, is there a diff b/t conical manifolds and regular manifolds? Also, what starter box works best with the evolva?
The conicle header tapers down in size...I use the new OFNA box.
http://www.ofna.com/start-box.html look at part number 10245.
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Old 09-24-2004, 12:02 AM   #602
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Originally posted by jnims29
I really like the Rex 321p, I am having trouble finding the rex version online. I just like the blue head instead of the purple or black.

Check out the dealer page at www.rjvracingproducts.com .
You should be able to get a 321P from any of the dealers listed on that page.
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Old 09-24-2004, 12:05 AM   #603
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I found the Rex engine on teh rctexas site. I am having trouble tracking down rex pipes, well they are the same as novarossi pipes, right?
The REX pipes are available with the conicle header...I'm not sure if the Top or Novarossi in-line pipes are sold that way.
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Old 09-24-2004, 12:24 AM   #604
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Originally posted by C Verano
The REX pipes are available with the conicle header...I'm not sure if the Top or Novarossi in-line pipes are sold that way.
chris, is the rex321p has a higher quality than the top321p ? I found the motor case is not the same but they have the same figure.......I always think Rex is on top of Top and Nova model even though they are the same class.........Let me know about the difference of nova rossi family Rex, Top and Nova.........thxs
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Old 09-24-2004, 12:26 PM   #605
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What is the difference between a conicle header and a regular header?
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Old 09-26-2004, 07:44 PM   #606
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I was curious, do you guys run an no/off switch in your evolvas? If so, where do you mount it?
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Old 09-26-2004, 08:15 PM   #607
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Originally posted by jnims29
I was curious, do you guys run an no/off switch in your evolvas? If so, where do you mount it?
to lessen the problem, we do not use the on/off switch. just add thr servo extension cord to hook up the battery back with the receiver are the way we go. If you still wanted to have the on/off switch, i would suggest you to get the KO electric on/off switch. they are more reliable than the manual switch.
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Old 09-27-2004, 04:57 PM   #608
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Default nitro percentage

How many percentage of nitro gas do you run with your .21 engine? Does 40% give a lot more power than 20%?
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Old 09-28-2004, 12:20 PM   #609
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Default Re: nitro percentage

Quote:
Originally posted by raceblast
How many percentage of nitro gas do you run with your .21 engine? Does 40% give a lot more power than 20%?
yes it would give you more power and make you motor run cooler but since there is not much oil in the fuel your shortening the life of the motor.... i personally use 30% only specaially on the long mains... but sometimes i use 35 to 40 in the qualifiers... good luck and have fun!!
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Old 09-28-2004, 01:39 PM   #610
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Default camber setting

How does one determine whether the camber is set correctly? Do you set the camber such that the tires are all flat after running or you look at the lap time?

Is it ok to set the camber such that the tires will become a bit cone shape after running?

Do you adjust the ride height by pressing the chassis down and let the chassis rebound, or do you lift the chassis up with the front/rear tires are hanging in air and drop the chassis down?
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Old 09-28-2004, 06:38 PM   #611
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Hey guys,
I am taking a break from R/C for a while and going back to Drag racing at least for the Winter. I have alot of Evolva parts that I won't be needing. They are as follows:

FM505-FRONT ARM (2)

FM404-REAR LOWER ARM (5)

FM504-REAR HUB (3)

FM362-49L-49T SPUR (3)

FM536-FRONT SHOCK TOWER (2)

FM316-PULLEY SET (1)

FMW25-SP FRONT BELT (2)

FM538-FRONT BELT (3)

FM379-REAR BELT (1)

FM506-REAR UPPER ARM (2)

FM503-FRONT STEERING BLOCK (2)

FM333C-BRAKE PAD (1)

FM507-FRONT BULKHEAD (1)

FM312H-REAR BODY MOUNT (1)

FM315H-FRONT BUMPER (1)

FM534B-UPPER GRAPHITE DECK (1)

FM359-1ST GEAR HOUSING AND ONE-WAY (1)

Here is your chance to stock up on parts, all these parts add up to well over $300 I am looking to get $225 or make me an offer. You can send me a PM or e-mail me at [email protected]
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Old 09-29-2004, 06:34 AM   #612
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Your tires should be coned to match the camber setting you select. From 1 1/2 - 3 degrees is the normal range. I run 2 degrees. It is best to cut the taper (cone) on a tire truer before running the car. If you do not have access to one, you will have to run the taper into the tire. Do not attempt to evaluate the cars handling untill the tires are coned. We are talking about the rear tires....
It is necessary to run the tires this way because of, the lack of a differential. The tires will 'scrub' even when going straight, which, frees up the rear-end so you can enter a corner smoothly. When running the 0 deg camber and flat tire, the car feels locked on course, then breaks loose abruptly, when going into the corner.
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Old 09-29-2004, 09:52 AM   #613
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Quote:
Originally posted by duneland
Your tires should be coned to match the camber setting you select. From 1 1/2 - 3 degrees is the normal range. I run 2 degrees. It is best to cut the taper (cone) on a tire truer before running the car. If you do not have access to one, you will have to run the taper into the tire. Do not attempt to evaluate the cars handling untill the tires are coned. We are talking about the rear tires....
It is necessary to run the tires this way because of, the lack of a differential. The tires will 'scrub' even when going straight, which, frees up the rear-end so you can enter a corner smoothly. When running the 0 deg camber and flat tire, the car feels locked on course, then breaks loose abruptly, when going into the corner.
When you cone the tires, which end is smaller in diameter? Is the outside or inside?
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Old 09-29-2004, 10:10 AM   #614
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Quote:
Originally posted by revzalot
When you cone the tires, which end is smaller in diameter? Is the outside or inside?

Inside..
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Old 09-29-2004, 02:49 PM   #615
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Like he said.
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