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Old 07-15-2004, 06:12 PM   #481
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Quote:
Originally posted by raceblast
I don't understand why Kyosho makes over 20 different springs for one car!!! I can't really tell which one is softer than which. Do the Mugen springs fit the Evolva stock shock, or I need to use the Mugen shocks with the springs? Does the Mugen spring set give enough handling adjustability?

Alan
Hi Alan,

Having that much spring variance is actually a good thing. As each one dampens and rebounds differently, hence a more broad flexibility on different track conditions. Though one may not be able to use all of them, I think it is good for a Kyosho car owner to have numerous optionals.

The best way to determine which is softer or harder than the other is to put one spring on top of the other and then compress it by hand. Observe its dampening and naturally, the spring that collapses first is the softer one. We are in the process in making a chart on the different Kyosho Spring Rates. Once finished, I will forward you that information.

Meantime, if you have easier access to Mugen Springs, yes you may use them with the stock Kyosho shocks. No need to get the Mugen shocks.

I have always used the Kyosho springs on my car so I am not able to personally comment on that. But it seem like the other guys has been having good results with them..
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Old 07-15-2004, 06:46 PM   #482
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Quote:
Originally posted by jwf-ronni
Ron,

you made a very good comment in testing the spring rate. before, i was having difficulty to figure out which is harder or softer by just looking at the header card, it makes everyone confused. However, i think it would be the best to have your kyosho spring rate list so pls let me know when it is done. thanks

i tried serveral kyosho springs but I do feel that the stock spring in black provide you a very good handlling . it adapts most of the tracks and condition. The sliver in the front are alos good and i suggest to try.....


Hi Alan,

Having that much spring variance is actually a good thing. As each one dampens and rebounds differently, hence a more broad flexibility on different track conditions. Though one may not be able to use all of them, I think it is good for a Kyosho car owner to have numerous optionals.

The best way to determine which is softer or harder than the other is to put one spring on top of the other and then compress it by hand. Observe its dampening and naturally, the spring that collapses first is the softer one. We are in the process in making a chart on the different Kyosho Spring Rates. Once finished, I will forward you that information.

Meantime, if you have easier access to Mugen Springs, yes you may use them with the stock Kyosho shocks. No need to get the Mugen shocks.

I have always used the Kyosho springs on my car so I am not able to personally comment on that. But it seem like the other guys has been having good results with them..
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Old 07-15-2004, 08:08 PM   #483
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Quote:
Originally posted by jwf-ronni
Hi Alan,

We are in the process in making a chart on the different Kyosho Spring Rates. Once finished, I will forward you that information.

Ronni , can you post it here when you are done.
Thanks
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Old 07-15-2004, 08:52 PM   #484
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Talking Hi Ron

That would really be great if you could post it here coz.. i was looking at all those springs and man that will really be a hard time to figure all those that out... thanks alot!!
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Old 07-15-2004, 10:48 PM   #485
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I'm sure Ron spent alot of time trying all of them. It definitely helps to have them all when your tuning for a certain track.
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Old 07-16-2004, 12:34 AM   #486
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The older Fantom springs do not fit the new shocks.
The new shocks take springs from most manufacturers including Mugen, Serpent, Neo and a host of others.
If you do want to run your old Fantom springs you will need different shock collars for the different diameter.
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Old 07-16-2004, 01:25 AM   #487
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Default Re: springs

Quote:
Originally posted by C Verano
I'm sure Ron spent alot of time trying all of them. It definitely helps to have them all when your tuning for a certain track.
im sure he did! when i saw the colors of the springs made for the evolva. I knew it would be hard but your right it would be good if you have the option of having all the colors ... THANKS RON !
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Old 07-16-2004, 10:08 AM   #488
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I ran the Mugen white/red combo and it worked fairly well for my first time out with the car. I didn't get a lot of track time because I was busy frying clutches and tuning my new motor.

raceblast: THe confusing designation on Kyosho's springs is actually pretty simple. Suppose you have the 4.5-1.9 copper springs. They are made with a 1.9mm diameter wire and have 4.5 turns through the length of the spring. Typically the thicker the wire, the stiffer and the greater number of loops are softer.

The best way I have found to compare spring rates relative to each other is to take two end to end and squeeze to see which one compresses first like somebody else here mentioned.
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Old 07-16-2004, 01:02 PM   #489
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Do you guys use one way lube in the front one way? Even though the Kyosho manual does not mention about lubricating the one way, I use the Serpent one way lube in the front one way. In my Serpent 835 manual, the one way needs to be lubed. Also, in the Serpent 835 manual, the thrust bearing is lubricated by graphite grease. So far my 835 4WD has been running very smoothly. The Evolva however has been having problem in every race. The problem with always with the clutch.

In one race, the spur gears were stripped, the inner clutch bearings were crushed. I replaced the spur, the 2 pinion gears, the clutch bell and the bearings for the next race. The car went well in the two qualifications. During the main, I lost drive after a few laps. The 20T pinion disappeared, but nothing was broken. Someone found the cracked pinion gear on the track.

BTW, I am using kawahara tires on the Evolva. The rear plastic joint that holds the pivot ball must be extended out of the rear upper arm mount in order to get the 2 degree camber and the 263mm track width. The extended plastic joint is prone to crack in this case when the rear wheel slightly touches the wall.

I decided to reduce the rear track width to 253mm, so that the plastic joint can be retracted into the upper arm. Since then, I have not replaced any plastic joint.

What is the relationship between Kyosho and Mugen? How come Evolva can use many Mugen parts?
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Old 07-16-2004, 07:05 PM   #490
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Raceblast

You have to turn out the upper arm so that it is flush with the outer ends it shouldnt be countersunk this way you can get the camber you would like and not have the rear end to narrow.
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Old 07-16-2004, 07:21 PM   #491
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whynot: How do you turn out the upper arm?
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Old 07-16-2004, 07:31 PM   #492
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OK on the upper arm there is a turn buckle and it has a hole in it and you have to put a small allen through it and spin it until it comes out flush with the ends,Or you have to use the allen on the inside end to adjust it out. make sure they are both the same.
Let me know if you understand.
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Old 07-16-2004, 10:15 PM   #493
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I understand. As I said before, the plastic joint (that connects to the turnbuckle on the rear upper arm) ought to be adjusted half way out of the upper arm to have 263mm track width and 2 degree camber if Mugen/Kawahara tires are used. Because the plastic joint is extended out, it is easier to be damaged if the rear wheel(s) suffer impact.

This problem may not exist if Kyosho rims are used. I heard Kyosho rims have different offset than Mugen and Kawahara rims.
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Old 07-16-2004, 10:18 PM   #494
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To further clarify, the way I adjusted the plastic joint in and out is by turning the turnbuckle. With the Mugen/Kawahara rims, no matter how u adjust the turnbuckle, the plastic joint will be half way out of the rear arm if the camber is set to 2 .
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Old 07-17-2004, 12:33 AM   #495
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Quote:
Originally posted by raceblast
To further clarify, the way I adjusted the plastic joint in and out is by turning the turnbuckle. With the Mugen/Kawahara rims, no matter how u adjust the turnbuckle, the plastic joint will be half way out of the rear arm if the camber is set to 2 .
Check the manual and make sure that you are using the correct rear upper arm. 2 sets come with the kit , but 1 set needs to be thrown out.


To get 2 degrees of camber the plastic joint is almost flush with the arm (maybe 1mm outside the arm)

Last edited by dougday; 07-17-2004 at 12:39 AM.
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