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Old 08-16-2007, 07:40 PM   #1516
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Default 352

352 is a older spring which used in Fantom 2001 with the cone type fly weight. It is a stronger spring and we call a 3D spring, worth to try but they tend to go soft quickly. With 432 I tend to change the spring on 1 raceday just on the safeside. But 352 is definitely stronger.


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Originally Posted by cdelong View Post
Aaron,

I like the 432 set-up you gave me. I run the 432 spring with a 3D kit @ 1.4mm and 4mm holes w/ a grey shoe.

I just got a new 3D kit and it had a 352 (??) spring in it?? What is that? It measures like a 432 but is red-ish grey in color- not just gray like the 432 spring. They are both 10mm long and have a 1.9mm coil. It's not a FMW10 (red spring)- its more like the 432.

If you are in Toledo Sunday, I'll see you there.
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Old 08-16-2007, 08:07 PM   #1517
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Default 2D set up

This is something I aware recentlyt from Japanese Kyosho team driver. It is a 4D flywheel with red shoes and 2 plucks only. 4D sping was used with gap 0.5 and adjustment nut 0.5. I can only imagine this will yield tremendous power but the combination will be interesting. Also for red shoes they will slip less and produce lesser power but it will compensate with the lesser 2 plucks

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Originally Posted by aaron_buran View Post
I am running the 3D, but I want to test a 2D setup with the 4D clutch. What is wierd is the 4D flywheel is much bigger and heavier, and I am not sure that I like that.
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Old 08-16-2007, 08:59 PM   #1518
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Default 050 tool

I use a 050 allen key and gring off the L and put the wrench on a small handle. My mechanic will use that tool to adjust on track if necessary. But if your clutch nut is new or the engine is too hot then you may not get the clutch adjsuted. Need to take it apart and adjust


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Originally Posted by NitroHead View Post
Aaron, @ the GLC in practice I ran my NovaMax w/msr spring set @ 1.57 and it was perfect. However! I switched (shouldn't have) to my Collari Plus engine w/ the msr clutch spring set the same way during quals and I had too much punch, rendering the car almost undrivable. QUESTION: Does anyone make a clutch spring adjustment tool, so adiustments can be done quickly during warmup?
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Old 08-18-2007, 02:13 AM   #1519
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Originally Posted by slide_228 View Post
Just curious are u using new low rear a arm?
The reason I ask is because the new arms seem to pop in after crash or may be I just too close to the wall

What do you mean by "the new arms seem to pop in after crash"? Please explain
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Old 08-18-2007, 03:13 AM   #1520
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arno View Post
What do you mean by "the new arms seem to pop in after crash"? Please explain
the pillow balls tend to get pushed in... messing up your cars set-up.

I've kinda solved that problem by placing a few drops of CA in the hole before I thread the pillow balls into the arms (must be a new arm that has not been used). It seems to take up enough space and make the threads tighter.

I notice the arms are pre-threaded for the pillow balls...... I'd rather not have threads to start off with.

I've seen the same problem on the camber links in the rear- they tend to get pushed in as well. CA works pretty good there too if you do it before the first assembly- just like I do with the a-arms.
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Old 08-18-2007, 10:00 AM   #1521
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Originally Posted by cdelong View Post
I notice the arms are pre-threaded for the pillow balls...... I'd rather not have threads to start off with.
I'm not a fan of the threaded arms either. Thats happened to me once but I hit the boards pretty fast.
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Old 08-18-2007, 12:47 PM   #1522
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Originally Posted by gashuffer View Post
I'm not a fan of the threaded arms either. Thats happened to me once but I hit the boards pretty fast.

I was just trying to see if thats is what you guys meant because thats what happened to me on Sunday, and that rarley happened with old A-Arms.
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Old 08-18-2007, 05:51 PM   #1523
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Default Old arms

I have decided to put the put the old arms back and wait for the new arms. I have 2 races messed up becuase of that and I was leading

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I was just trying to see if thats is what you guys meant because thats what happened to me on Sunday, and that rarley happened with old A-Arms.
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Old 08-19-2007, 04:20 PM   #1524
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The CA has worked for me. I've run the same arms for the last three race weekends and still don't see any need to replace them yet. Just drip a bead into each hole in a few spots and let it dry overnight. If you thread the pillow ball in before the CA has dried real good you may end up with a pile of goo. All the spares in my box have already been CA'd and are ready to go

Set-up adjustments are still indicating that the threads are tight and will not be pushed in.

I think the lower shock mount threads are a tad weak as well. I've been screwing in a button head screw from the back of each lower arm and threading my shock onto that. Works great, but you have to do it before you put the CVD's/dogbones in.
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Old 08-20-2007, 05:28 PM   #1525
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdelong View Post
the pillow balls tend to get pushed in... messing up your cars set-up.

I've kinda solved that problem by placing a few drops of CA in the hole before I thread the pillow balls into the arms (must be a new arm that has not been used). It seems to take up enough space and make the threads tighter.

I notice the arms are pre-threaded for the pillow balls...... I'd rather not have threads to start off with.

I've seen the same problem on the camber links in the rear- they tend to get pushed in as well. CA works pretty good there too if you do it before the first assembly- just like I do with the a-arms.
I just noticed that the old arms are pre threaded and the new 07 arms are not pre threaded, I looked at brand new sets of both.
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Old 08-20-2007, 06:03 PM   #1526
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the fronts are pre-threaded, but i guess they are considered '05 parts.

the rears are actually not threaded now that you said it, but the problem is that the hole is too large and leaves very little thread engagement once the pillow ball is threaded in.

i hear the problem is being worked, but the CA trick has worked for me so far
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Old 08-21-2007, 07:15 AM   #1527
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With respect to the 07 rear lower arms, I've heard (but haven't tried) that heating the arm (heat gun or boiling water) with a pillow ball threaded into it and allowing it to cool will cause the plastic to 'skin' around the new threads you cut and should improve strength.
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Old 08-22-2007, 08:10 AM   #1528
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Default Usability - Clutch and lower arms

Hi Guys

2 questions:

1. Is it possible/advisable to use the 3.5 blocks with the standard 2005 rear arms?

2. Is worth investing in a 4D clutch system? Is it better in any way than the 3D system? Also, which is a good clutch spring to use - here, I am looking for consistency.

Thanks

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Old 08-22-2007, 07:07 PM   #1529
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Default Various

Acid

1. Yes you can, it still work and you can use the short upper a arm as well.

2. I'd run 4D system many yeras ago and it is ok. Personally I think it is worth trying it but you need to make sure you can get the shoes as they are quite difficult to find. The down side of it is that the flywheel is a bit heavy.

Another option is to use Mugen 4D system becuase you can get parts easily and it fits well

It your choice

Quote:
Originally Posted by Acid View Post
Hi Guys

2 questions:

1. Is it possible/advisable to use the 3.5 blocks with the standard 2005 rear arms?

2. Is worth investing in a 4D clutch system? Is it better in any way than the 3D system? Also, which is a good clutch spring to use - here, I am looking for consistency.

Thanks

Acid
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Old 08-22-2007, 07:18 PM   #1530
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All you need to run the 4D clutch is mugen shoes and spring cup.
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