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Old 03-18-2009, 12:53 PM   #1
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Default Engine Break-In Stand

Just wanted to know if any other racers have built their own engine break-in stand? I've seen some of the break-in stands which are available and there isn't much to them so I've decided to build my own. I will be using it to break-in .12 engines for my 1/10 gas car. I already have a T6 aluminum plate, the fuel tank and the engine mount. The posts for mounting the fuel tank and the throttle lever won't be hard to come by, I should be able to find them at my LHS, my question is getting the right propeller, propeller nut and propeller collar. Has anyone built there own and if so what type of propeller/nut/collar did you use??? Any other suggestions or pictures by anyone who has built one???

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Old 03-18-2009, 10:50 PM   #2
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I'd definitely be interested in some tips. I would like to use a stand to work on/troubleshoot engines, but do not want to drop the 100-200 bucks for one.

If anyone has anything, please do post up.
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Old 03-19-2009, 01:21 AM   #3
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I made one....

First of all I wanted to have the airflow from the side of the engine because that is the situation in the car.


So I decided to make a pipe arround it to steer the airflow:


In running:


I used a collar and disc form an airplaine engine and a friend made a nose cone fitting the SG shaft to lockup the prop.
I used a 1 liter can as tank and an old silencer to get down the noise.
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Old 03-19-2009, 02:44 AM   #4
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neat setup. I don't think the airflow would matter since nitro engines all work the same and are in different positions depending on vehicles.

Do you use a hand starter for it or can you just flip the prop??

I like it

p.s. when you say silencer, what do you mean?
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Old 03-19-2009, 03:47 AM   #5
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I meant the exhaust.

Some engines can be started by hand but spare your fingers and use an airplane starter engine.

The airflow can be important because it creates an hot and cold spot on the crankcase and so also on the sleeve.
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Old 03-19-2009, 05:15 AM   #6
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Dont forget to build a guard around the prop. Our high powered car engines will spin the blades fast enough for them to come apart. Be carefully with the RPM's. Most blades are good for only 20,000 rpm. I bought the RD LOGICS breakin stand. My problem is getting temp up high enough for heat cycleing during new engine breakin. Aluminum foil is a must. If its winter and the garage is 50 degrees I remove the heat sink and bolt down the head button or I cant keep any heat in the engine. A rich mixture and all that cold air are a problem.
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Old 03-19-2009, 10:28 AM   #7
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Thank you everyone for sharing your input and photos. I will be sure to share what info I can and post photos of the one I'm building.

Here's where I'm at with this. I made it by my LHS yesterday and was able to find a really nice ProLine fuel tank designed for the T-Maxx. Cool thing is that it has the 4 mounting posts designed into the bottom of the tank. I also found a Traxxas .12 engine mount and some green anodized aluminum mounting posts from Axial to use for the throttle linkage and pipe hanger. So the only real work involved will be to drill 4 holes for the engine mount, 4 holes for the fuel tank and 1 hole for each of the 2 posts (throttle linkage and pipe hanger).

Now, the following are the parts I had to order and they will be in next week. These are actually from the RD Logics break-in stand.

Part Number CP4701 is the Propeller Nut $12.00
CP4702 is the Propeller $8.00
CP4703 Propeller Collar $10.00
CP4705 Propeller Guard $15.00 ( I didn't order this)

So next week I'll put it together once the remaining parts arrive. I'll keep you all posted.

Regards,
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Old 03-19-2009, 10:33 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spawn_x View Post
I'd definitely be interested in some tips. I would like to use a stand to work on/troubleshoot engines, but do not want to drop the 100-200 bucks for one.

If anyone has anything, please do post up.
After doing the math, the total I'll be spending will come out to about $65.00. That beats paying $140.00 and up.

Regards,
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Old 03-19-2009, 10:46 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roelof View Post
I meant the exhaust.
oh I got that, I meant what kind? is that an airplane exhaust or something? Thanks man
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Old 03-19-2009, 10:54 AM   #10
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I payed $80.00 for the RC LOGICS stand. New! Doing a murnan cordoba right now.
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Old 03-19-2009, 10:59 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spawn_x View Post
oh I got that, I meant what kind? is that an airplane exhaust or something? Thanks man
I'd have to say you would need to use an exhaust designed for the engine you are breaking in so thet you get a proper break-in. If you're using an exhaust not designed for the engine you are breaking in then you're not going to get the proper back pressure and this may effect the engine getting to a proper temp (180-200 degrees) so the piston and sleeve seat properly. Just my opinion.

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Old 03-19-2009, 11:16 AM   #12
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I am sure this will start a debate, but.... Be careful! The shop near my house has been doing this for customers for some time. They have found the prop blast cools the engine too much. They cut down a reverse pitch prop and still end up using a cardboard sleeve over the cooling head. The whole idea is getting the engine up to temp while having a bunch of fuel running through it, impossible to do with a prop blowing air over it. Just my 2 cents.
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Old 03-19-2009, 11:21 AM   #13
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I am not an expert but, what does back pressure have to do with engine temp? Nothing unless you are running lean and the pipe pressure helps cover up the lack of fuel flow. These engines will run without pipe pressure.
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Old 03-19-2009, 11:32 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wizby View Post
I payed $80.00 for the RC LOGICS stand. New! Doing a murnan cordoba right now.

Did you mean RD LOGICS? You must have gotten a great discount or found it on clearence because my LHS has it retailing for $140.00 and Horizon Hobbies has it for $130.00 plus shipping. I think the Hudy stand is a bit more $$$.

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Old 03-19-2009, 11:36 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wwoodruff View Post
I am sure this will start a debate, but.... Be careful! The shop near my house has been doing this for customers for some time. They have found the prop blast cools the engine too much. They cut down a reverse pitch prop and still end up using a cardboard sleeve over the cooling head. The whole idea is getting the engine up to temp while having a bunch of fuel running through it, impossible to do with a prop blowing air over it. Just my 2 cents.
You are correct sir. So in order to overcome the cooling from the prop the best thing is to cover the cooling head with aluminum foil or construct some type of shield to cover part of the head so that you can get your engine to the proper temp.

Regards,
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