Shepherd Velox V10
12-16-2009, 01:18 PM
#526
Tech Apprentice
Hy guys,
i think i can also answer to some things.
Jilles used the set screw in an early stage to fix the ballbearings. He is still doing it !
The rear upper arm.
We tested this solution and the kit solution many times against each other,
but we never had an exact result. It´s not done for better adjustment, if you have the right tool it is absolutely no problem to adjust the camber.
I thin we will release a tool for that, its really simple !!
Hope i could help
Alex
i think i can also answer to some things.
Jilles used the set screw in an early stage to fix the ballbearings. He is still doing it !
The rear upper arm.
We tested this solution and the kit solution many times against each other,
but we never had an exact result. It´s not done for better adjustment, if you have the right tool it is absolutely no problem to adjust the camber.
I thin we will release a tool for that, its really simple !!
Hope i could help
Alex
12-16-2009, 05:11 PM
#527
You also have to remember, top drivers usually have more than one sponsor. While Shepherd or Mugen or whoever might be their primary sponsor, they also have other obligations such as motor sponsors, tire sponsors, aftermarket parts sponsors like bearing companies so all sorts of other parts might find their way onto the car whether they are better or not.
What I find interesting is when a top sponsored driver is running a competitors product. Remember when Picco first came out with a conical manifold? Burch (Serpent/NovaMega) and many other drivers with no Picco connections at all were running that manifold. That's a pretty good indication of a part's superiority.
12-17-2009, 05:47 AM
#528
Tech Adept
Hello,
The bearings are ABEC bearing. It's ceramic type, little more smooth then kit bearings.
As I have many blue screws from my Tamiya car I used some of them to "pimp my ride" for the pics. Actually I don't recommend the alu screws as they are a bit weak and also alu on alu is not a good combination.
The rear camberlink I modified to see if the handling will change but not much differents + it's more easy to set the camber.
The set screws in the rear hubs was because still prototype hubs with some play on the bearings.
Jilles
The bearings are ABEC bearing. It's ceramic type, little more smooth then kit bearings.
As I have many blue screws from my Tamiya car I used some of them to "pimp my ride" for the pics. Actually I don't recommend the alu screws as they are a bit weak and also alu on alu is not a good combination.
The rear camberlink I modified to see if the handling will change but not much differents + it's more easy to set the camber.
The set screws in the rear hubs was because still prototype hubs with some play on the bearings.
Jilles
12-17-2009, 12:27 PM
#529
I got a question to one of the velox owners or someone at shepherd.
Could you measure the diameter of the wheel axle for the cvd's?. EDIT already found it in the manual 10MM.
Could you measure the length from the inside of the clip retaining the wheel axle to the inside of the hex, basically the piece which sits in the hub between the wheel bearings?.
Could you measure the thickness of the hex, so how much offset I would have?.
And could you measure the diameter of the pin which fixes the cvd shaft to the wheel axle?. EDIT Found this in the manual as well 2MM.
I am asking because I would like to know if they would fit my NT1.
Could you measure the diameter of the wheel axle for the cvd's?. EDIT already found it in the manual 10MM.
Could you measure the length from the inside of the clip retaining the wheel axle to the inside of the hex, basically the piece which sits in the hub between the wheel bearings?.
Could you measure the thickness of the hex, so how much offset I would have?.
And could you measure the diameter of the pin which fixes the cvd shaft to the wheel axle?. EDIT Found this in the manual as well 2MM.
I am asking because I would like to know if they would fit my NT1.
12-17-2009, 01:01 PM
#530
Suspended
12-17-2009, 01:12 PM
#531
Thanks Pieter, I know Capricorn has them, but those are quite pricey.
The shepherd ones are around half the price of the capricorn ones.
My only concern would be if the shepherd ones are shorter as the ones found on the NT1, i'm pretty skilled but making them longer would be a bit difficult.
The shepherd ones are around half the price of the capricorn ones.
My only concern would be if the shepherd ones are shorter as the ones found on the NT1, i'm pretty skilled but making them longer would be a bit difficult.
12-21-2009, 07:27 PM
#532
to all the shepherd v10 drivers out there merry christmas and a happy new year and lets dail our new cars in for a great new year of racing
12-22-2009, 02:15 PM
#534
Tech Adept
Hey guys,
the position of the receiver is never a problem, we use it also in the 1/8, like Neil said, all the time.
And Neil is also right, the receiver boxes are already finished and we will publish them the next days, so thats the solution for the regular diver, ääää sorry, driver !!
but i think most of the guys, again like neil said, will use the standard part as long as it doesn´t rain !!!
We will publish some new items this week, so stay tuned and check back to our website to be up to date !!
regards
Alex
the position of the receiver is never a problem, we use it also in the 1/8, like Neil said, all the time.
And Neil is also right, the receiver boxes are already finished and we will publish them the next days, so thats the solution for the regular diver, ääää sorry, driver !!
but i think most of the guys, again like neil said, will use the standard part as long as it doesn´t rain !!!We will publish some new items this week, so stay tuned and check back to our website to be up to date !!
regards
Alex
Very good Alex!!!!!
Great to see you on here supporting the drivers. Hope you and everyone at Shepherd have a great Christmas and New Year.
Neil
12-22-2009, 06:36 PM
#535
Whats up Alex. Just saying high and tell Patrick the same. Have a Merry Christmas guys,
DJ Apolaro
DJ Apolaro
12-27-2009, 01:46 AM
#536
Hi
I have just picked up my Shepherd Velox V10 today from the Australian importer "Trackside RC" here in Brisbane. I am looking forward to the build and hitting the track with it soon in 2010!!!
Big thanks to Jeff @ Trackside...
I have just picked up my Shepherd Velox V10 today from the Australian importer "Trackside RC" here in Brisbane. I am looking forward to the build and hitting the track with it soon in 2010!!!
Big thanks to Jeff @ Trackside...
12-29-2009, 04:21 AM
#537
Review So Far
I noticed this topic is very quiet for a new car, so I thought I would do a review on the car, as there is still limited info about the car available, and will hopefully help people deciding to buy it or not.
Just as a background, I am not sponsored, paid, bribed, etc so my opinions are not biased.
Also, in a space of 14 months, I have built and raced a MTX-4R, RRR Evo2, NT1 09, and now a V10, so my opinions are based on the 4 race cars I have built. This is also to give Team Shepherd some customer feedback.
Why did I choose Shepherd? I like building cars, I like having the best, and I think the support and innovation Shepherd have shown so far on this forum, and with the car was enough.
-The box, and packaging is very similar to that of the NT1, 13 bags in total, all sealed, and within them are smaller bags.
-The blue alloy bulk heads are nice. Whilst the cuts may not be 100%, they all align and fit together very nicely. Obviously, thread lock is required with the metal. I am also suprised how light they are, and would not notice much weight difference between the plastic ones.
-The shock towers are brillant! 4mm rear shock tower is included, and the most tuning positions I have seen yet!
-The 3 screws for the battery tray mounts are too big and do not countersink correctly, which cause them to pretrude. I used my own.
-The instruction manual is not very detailed, and I would not recommend this kit to a newcomer.
-2 x M8 screws were missing with the front bulk head assembly.
-The issue with the radio tray mount did not effect me at all, and seems aligned ok.
-The diffs are the best I have seen. The plastic matrial is excellent, the bevel gears are very precise and bulkier then other manufacturers, there is not side movement.
-The standard diff oils seem alittle odd to me. Included is 100,000wt front, and 80,000wt rear. I noticed Jiles ran 150,000wt front and 50,000wt, and I usually ran larger gaps between front a rear in other cars. I decided to fill the diffs with 100,000wt front, and 40,000wt rear using xray oils.
*You may ask why I have jumped a few steps and mounted the top plate only. The chassis was not 100% flat when first taken out of the box and tested on a flat surface (glass top, hudy bench). I mounted the top plate to make sure it was ok and eliminate any possible tweak, and it seems to have fixed it - Did any other V10 builders notice this?
This car looks too good to race. Tommorrow, I will continue.
Just as a background, I am not sponsored, paid, bribed, etc so my opinions are not biased.
Also, in a space of 14 months, I have built and raced a MTX-4R, RRR Evo2, NT1 09, and now a V10, so my opinions are based on the 4 race cars I have built. This is also to give Team Shepherd some customer feedback.
Why did I choose Shepherd? I like building cars, I like having the best, and I think the support and innovation Shepherd have shown so far on this forum, and with the car was enough.
-The box, and packaging is very similar to that of the NT1, 13 bags in total, all sealed, and within them are smaller bags.
-The blue alloy bulk heads are nice. Whilst the cuts may not be 100%, they all align and fit together very nicely. Obviously, thread lock is required with the metal. I am also suprised how light they are, and would not notice much weight difference between the plastic ones.
-The shock towers are brillant! 4mm rear shock tower is included, and the most tuning positions I have seen yet!
-The 3 screws for the battery tray mounts are too big and do not countersink correctly, which cause them to pretrude. I used my own.
-The instruction manual is not very detailed, and I would not recommend this kit to a newcomer.
-2 x M8 screws were missing with the front bulk head assembly.
-The issue with the radio tray mount did not effect me at all, and seems aligned ok.
-The diffs are the best I have seen. The plastic matrial is excellent, the bevel gears are very precise and bulkier then other manufacturers, there is not side movement.
-The standard diff oils seem alittle odd to me. Included is 100,000wt front, and 80,000wt rear. I noticed Jiles ran 150,000wt front and 50,000wt, and I usually ran larger gaps between front a rear in other cars. I decided to fill the diffs with 100,000wt front, and 40,000wt rear using xray oils.
*You may ask why I have jumped a few steps and mounted the top plate only. The chassis was not 100% flat when first taken out of the box and tested on a flat surface (glass top, hudy bench). I mounted the top plate to make sure it was ok and eliminate any possible tweak, and it seems to have fixed it - Did any other V10 builders notice this?
This car looks too good to race. Tommorrow, I will continue.
12-29-2009, 10:13 AM
#538
12-29-2009, 01:59 PM
#539
Novarossi:
Where did you get your car from? I have just finished assembling the drivetrain on mine. I am very impressed with the quality so far, hope it continues...
If only didn't have to work
Where did you get your car from? I have just finished assembling the drivetrain on mine. I am very impressed with the quality so far, hope it continues...
If only didn't have to work
12-29-2009, 03:13 PM
#540
Heavily considering getting a velox to replace my RRR, and just wondering if anyone has made the same upgrade? if so how did you find the velox in build/performance compared to the RRR?
Novarossi,
Have you tested/raced your velox yet? if so how does it compare to the other cars you have run?
Novarossi,
Have you tested/raced your velox yet? if so how does it compare to the other cars you have run?