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Old 12-04-2011, 08:50 PM   #46
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i ordered a set of medium/soft foams as i couldnt find any grey type foams. no big deal though. just a toy. getting d compount rally tires cause they cheap.

couldnt help myself today though. put some 28r slicks on it and crammed the setup together and went out to play. car transitions from driveway ledges well, drives controllably over gravel and dispite the slicks can still make it over grass. pretty fun.

didnt really change any parts. running all the kit parts with the downstops out, longer eyelets on the shocks and preload collars all the way down almost. suspension travel isnt a big deal here since the car bottoms out before it reaches the top of the shock travel, and the arms wont go down any more.

I could try adding a few mm to the arm mounts which would allow a steeper angle downward, but might not be worth it. the trade on the rally tires will probably give me enough ground clearance.

still going to modify the inner shock guides for more down travel but dunno if i ned it.
Sounds great! Let's see it when you get the rally tires on it! I'll bet it will tear it up!
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Old 12-07-2011, 12:08 AM   #47
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you never did get around to making a vid did you lol. still waiting!

picked up my rally tires from the LHS but waiting for my wheels.inserts to arrive.
opened up the shocks tonight and realized how big a mistake that was. remembered just how much shock fluid i wasted to get my track cars shocks built properly..

took my old tc5 shock guts and transplanted them into the ntc3 bodies, though shaved the black guides that go inside down to 5mm.
for the rears i might try to get them down to 3 mm. also, i could have added a little more by not putting the lower plastic guide in, and went with double oring like the kit settings.
unfortunately, my old diaphrams were too swollen to work with the caps, but next outdoor season i plan to rebuild my onroad shocks with the vcs2 upgrade kit. so basicly tc5 shocks on it then. though the ntc3 are a little bit longer.

for all that fiddling though, i only gained 2.5mm extra piston travel. but it means i can keep the eyelets fully threaded.
not sure why people are recommended the use of GREEN springs. car droops a ton at ride heigh with the green onroad springs. cant imagine the offroad ones are better there. ill run gold springs for a while until i investigate the rates of the offroad ones.

hopefully by the end of the week my wheels will show up and i can get the rally tires glued. but ill post vids fosho! especially with my non rally scale 350z body the car came with initially.
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Old 12-11-2011, 07:44 PM   #48
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got my rally wheels and inserts. tires all glued up and the car setup. now all i have to do is figure out the motor setup. never did get it to run real well so i put it aside as a backup.

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Old 12-11-2011, 08:05 PM   #49
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wheels and tires look awsome!!!


BTW if anyone reading this gains some interest I do have an extra NTC3 laying around.... I can make a great deal on it....
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Old 12-11-2011, 08:28 PM   #50
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I agree, like the wheels and tires a lot! Been messing around with the other NTC3 and got the new Picco broken in today, once I get it leaned out it will be great! So far no problems with the tune but still running it rich.
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Old 12-11-2011, 09:01 PM   #51
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im a little disappointed with the wheels though. description said gold chrome, but its nice the nicest color in person. i could have got some bronze te37's at the LHS instead.

doesnt matter though. still had to order the inserts and parts for my tc5 so they WERE cheaper.
LHS has a Corolla WRC body im undecided on whether to buy. i wanted a EVOX but will cost as much to ship as the body. maybe when i get the rebuild parts for my race ntc3 next year ill get it.

putting all new bearings, difs, shocks on that car and trying to get another season out of it. ill run it as long as i can get parts for it, and i keep hitting things lol.

if i have time tomorrow, ill fire it up and try it out. though i need to change the clutch springs and retune the motor. car stalls if you brake hard lol and will barely stay running at all. old school novamega that i cant find ANY information on.
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Old 12-13-2011, 08:44 PM   #52
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well i got the car mostly working tonight after switching out my novamega motor for my os. though now i have problems with my throttle linkage popping off on jumps ect. also having some radio troubles but i think i know the cause of that.

hpi rally tires are great for gravel/dirt and grass, not so much onroad and i dont recommend driving on the road with them at all. they dont have much grip on ashphalt and wear out pretty quick. only a few minutes of farting around and already see some wear on the knobby bits.

might be too cold, but would be worse wear if warmer. so, i wont play with this car again until i find a nice dirt lot i can play around in, or the snow comes ha.
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Old 12-19-2011, 12:18 PM   #53
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Default Need New Idea for Sealing Up Chassis

Well my aluminum tape idea is failing (see page 1 of this thread for pix). The piece in the back tore from the spur. The one by the engine came off from all the nitro/oil/cleaner. The only one still intact is the front opening.

Any ideas for something else to seal it off from the bottom? I wonder if a piece of an old body shell glued to the bottom would work in each spot..a little tougher than the aluminum tape. I would use some epoxy that would not be affected by nitro or solvent.

Or maybe a thin piece of plexiglass on the bottom with an opening for the flywheel area, though I don't know where you would buy something like that? If I would have to be able to remove it to get to the screws under the chassis, if it covered most of it.

Any other ideas? Obviously this is just a silly experiment to the solution needs to be relatively inexpensive. The chassis is already scraped to hell so I am not worried about keeping it pretty.
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Old 12-19-2011, 12:24 PM   #54
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Look in the phone book. You should have a plastics store local or nearby. If you have a router /drill you can make a plastic plate for the bottom of the car like 1/32 or so thick would be fine. Just makensome
New
Holes in the chassis and attach with countersunk screws and nuts.

I havent bothered with any of that stuff yet though. Will prob saxrifice a gear or two to get the car figured out
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Old 12-19-2011, 05:15 PM   #55
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Default Went With Plan "B"...

After pondering my options I decided to try thin pieces of aluminum. I cut some to fit the openings, leaving access to nearby screws and attached with some epoxy gel. I thought about some JB Weld since I had that laying around also LOL.

Here it is drying, time will tell if it holds up!



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Old 12-19-2011, 08:35 PM   #56
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that should work pretty well!
any plans for the top side? im personally more worried about crap getting under the body and mangling the transmission from up top.

right now though, im working on a solution for my lipo mounting situation. the stock radio tray is NOT lipo friendly. so im looking at either making a new radio tray with a big ass box to enclose the lipo, the ubec and rx.

i might cut a new chassis out of acrylic or similar just for this car, which means a underbody too maybe.
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Old 12-19-2011, 09:35 PM   #57
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that should work pretty well!
any plans for the top side? im personally more worried about crap getting under the body and mangling the transmission from up top.

right now though, im working on a solution for my lipo mounting situation. the stock radio tray is NOT lipo friendly. so im looking at either making a new radio tray with a big ass box to enclose the lipo, the ubec and rx.

i might cut a new chassis out of acrylic or similar just for this car, which means a underbody too maybe.
Have not gotten that far yet but maybe I'll come up with something.

Might be easier to fabricate it all than trying to make it fit the stock tray. At least that way you can get it just how you want it. Plus it's more fun!
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Old 12-19-2011, 09:49 PM   #58
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ill take my onroad chassis to work and make a mdf router guide from it, that can be used to make a plexi/fiberglass version from.
then i can be really free with how to make a battery/rx tray.

right now, my UBEC is taped to the top of the rx box which i doubt will last if i slash fuel on it lol. just set it that way to get the car working. if i wanted to run this car for a long time id ALMOST invest in good nimh for it but lipo will be more userfriendly when i get it all setup.
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Old 12-20-2011, 07:45 AM   #59
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ill take my onroad chassis to work and make a mdf router guide from it, that can be used to make a plexi/fiberglass version from.
then i can be really free with how to make a battery/rx tray.

right now, my UBEC is taped to the top of the rx box which i doubt will last if i slash fuel on it lol. just set it that way to get the car working. if i wanted to run this car for a long time id ALMOST invest in good nimh for it but lipo will be more userfriendly when i get it all setup.
If you have the time and material much more fun and satisfying to build something, and it sounds like you have the tools to get it done which is great. It would be cool to see what you build.
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Old 12-20-2011, 07:56 AM   #60
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dont praise me yet lol. still need to make a router guide without mangling my chassis. shouldnt be too difficult though. clamp a peice of mdf or screw to the chassis, go around it with a flush bit with bearing. should be straight forward lol.

id do it on our cnc but my cad skills are lacking at the moment and the tools cost a bit. the tool we use to cut out mdf parts is $100 a pop. painful if i break it.

$20 router bit much better!

i wouldnt expect too many updates for a few weeks though. working on a project for wife and a big race coming jan6th. after that though, im taking my tc5 appart so this project might get a whole new drivetrain
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