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Old 07-19-2004, 04:04 PM   #14071
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Unless the currency converter script on my website is wrong, then it seems that the-Border's price is really expensive!

USD 26 = Euros 20.9 at today's rate. Even with postage .... well never mind
Is someone is looking for them in the US try

Winner's Circle
http://www.gasrccar.com/

or

Ashford Hobby
http://www.ashfordhobby.com/
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Old 07-19-2004, 04:24 PM   #14072
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Unless the currency converter script on my website is wrong, then it seems that the-Border's price is really expensive!

USD 26 = Euros 20.9 at today's rate. Even with postage .... well never mind
That's just the difference between Europe and Asia...
Look at what the chassis plate costs here and at Mushroom. The normal price in Europe is 70 Euro (US$ 85+) and I believe at Mushroom you got it for $40!

Look at the new arrivals at Mushroom, the Serpent ceramic bearings. I don't even want to know what these cost here in Europe!

1380 5x13 (2) $23.31USD
1381 6x10 (2) $25.06USD
1382 6x13 (2) $23.31USD
1383 6x15 (2) $31.33USD
1384 10x15 (2) $31.33USD
1386 12x18 (2) $31.33USD
1387 12x21 (2) $37.60USD
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Old 07-19-2004, 04:29 PM   #14073
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Quote:
Originally posted by KevinS
1380 5x13 (2) $23.31USD
1381 6x10 (2) $25.06USD
1382 6x13 (2) $23.31USD
1383 6x15 (2) $31.33USD
1384 10x15 (2) $31.33USD
1386 12x18 (2) $31.33USD
1387 12x21 (2) $37.60USD
Geez!!!
With the cost of those bearings you probably could buy 2 sets of the Acer ceramic bearings.
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Old 07-19-2004, 04:53 PM   #14074
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Quote:
Originally posted by PSI Racing
Geez!!!
With the cost of those bearings you probably could buy 2 sets of the Acer ceramic bearings.
Let's see...

You need:
8x 10x15 = 4x 31.33 = 125.32 (wheelaxles)
4x 12x18 = 2x 31.33 = 62.66 (diff eccenters)
5x 6x13 = 3x 23.31 = 69.93 (2speed+2speedshaft+midshaft+1 "spare")
1x 6x10 (flanged) = 25.06 (2speed+1 "spare")

Total: $282.97
Not including 5x10 (2) and 5x10 thrust for clutch, 7x14 and 6x14 thrust for diff.

Quote:
Originally screamed by KevinS' wallet
OUCH!
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Old 07-19-2004, 07:55 PM   #14075
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Default Re: Re: Re: Serpent 710 tips!

Quote:
Originally posted by PER-OLA HARD
Hi Mark,
Thanks!

Front: yes the alu is more stabile so the small M3 insex screws works better then they touch the alu levers instead of the more flexible parts.

Rear: I drilled the holes to 3.3mm and replaced the standart M3 insex with a M4. Works nice I think!

Cheers!

/Per-Ola

PS. I will check in here now and then....
Welcome aboard !!

Great tips, thank you.
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Old 07-19-2004, 08:17 PM   #14076
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Default Re: Serpent 710 tips!

Quote:
Originally posted by PER-OLA HARD
Hi!
I am new at this popular forum!
Per-Ola, welcome on board !
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Old 07-19-2004, 08:19 PM   #14077
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Quote:
Originally posted by cyba888
When you adjust the drag brake do you not only adjust it from the brake linkage screw but on your transmitter as well? Incase it starts to fade I was hoping you can adjust it using your tx? Is it possible without interfering with your carb settings?
I guess you could adjust the brake fade on the EPA a tad or two. The throttle side would have the spring there in the linkage and that extra movement would be absorbed a little by the spring. But not too much as this will strain the servo.
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Old 07-19-2004, 08:20 PM   #14078
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Serpent 710 tips!

Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
You've sold the idea! I'm going to online to order the Al parts .... swoosh!!!
Wooi ! Don't take them all away. Leave some for us Onkel Sow.
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Old 07-19-2004, 08:28 PM   #14079
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Mine varies depending upon amount of dirt but at the moment, I'm upto 1719 with Stratus body - this is without the alu parts, but with a lot of much too expensive ti screws
Your bodyshell is probably having too much paint ! Or there's still too much dirt that the Photoshop filter cannot get rid off.
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Old 07-19-2004, 08:28 PM   #14080
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I guess you could adjust the brake fade on the EPA a tad or two. The throttle side would have the spring there in the linkage and that extra movement would be absorbed a little by the spring. But not too much as this will strain the servo.
Thanks D, I was thinking the same as well. I used the spring from the inside of a pen
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Old 07-19-2004, 08:29 PM   #14081
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Default Re: new 710 driver

Quote:
Originally posted by impalabob64
My eng. Jp modified,gear setup 18/61 23/56.
That's a strange gearing. BTW, welcome on board.

p/s: I noticed you used the G4 previously.
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Old 07-19-2004, 08:30 PM   #14082
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Quote:
Originally posted by PER-OLA HARD
You guys are fast.....
Only some of us are slow. Age related.

Quote:
Originally posted by PER-OLA HARD
Weight: with small tires and a Mazda 6 body around 1715 gram, no small servos or anything.
Cool. This is with personal transponder? So what do you do to add weight to make it legal?

Also, in the LRP Masters open, Michael and Julius used a bar like thing stuck onto the rear shock tower to avoid the body shell from being compressed during pitstop. Do you have a clearer pic of that? What parts are needed for that? Does it really work? Thanks.
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Old 07-19-2004, 08:32 PM   #14083
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Quote:
Originally posted by PER-OLA HARD
* The pro brake pads, works good almost no wear but the steel brake plate seems to wear instead (but cheaper to replace). I use the pro plate with holes.
Which part is this are you referring? The 9607 brake pads or the 9606 vented brake disc?

When using oneway front, I read that the best combo is the 9607 brake pads and the 9606 vented brake disc because it does not grab too hard. What about when just using solid front axle or front ball diff? Stock brake pads with 9606 vented brake disc?

Quote:
Originally posted by PER-OLA HARD
Another tips (I have used it the last weeks) is to use a longer inner pin in the rear driveshafts (11.7mm instead of 9.7mm) as this decreases the wear of the rear diff steelparts. These pins was used in the S-705 and Impact differentials and seems to work, make sure they are perfectly centered though.
Thanks for this great tip ! I think one of us here (Proficar403) mentioned that he was already changing them out with longer pins.

Anyway, just curious. Are the pins on the 705 rear dogbone (dogbone black in colour) the same quality as the pins in the Impact rear dogbone (dogbone Hudy brown in colour)?
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Old 07-19-2004, 08:47 PM   #14084
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Quote:
Originally posted by KevinS
Let's see...

You need:
8x 10x15 = 4x 31.33 = 125.32 (wheelaxles)
4x 12x18 = 2x 31.33 = 62.66 (diff eccenters)
5x 6x13 = 3x 23.31 = 69.93 (2speed+2speedshaft+midshaft+1 "spare")
1x 6x10 (flanged) = 25.06 (2speed+1 "spare")

Total: $282.97
Not including 5x10 (2) and 5x10 thrust for clutch, 7x14 and 6x14 thrust for diff.
all of those + belt tensioner bearings.. Indonesia price at USD150
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Old 07-19-2004, 08:52 PM   #14085
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pyramid
all of those + belt tensioner bearings.. Indonesia price at USD150
ssshhhh !!
No thrust bearing, only ball bearing for whole kit except steering saver ass'y..
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