R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-20-2004, 09:47 PM   #12766
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default Re: Re: sweay bar

Quote:
Originally posted by PUNISHER
It just need to barley go inside that female (cup) part.........you probably had it to far in were it wasn't moving to freely.
Perhaps the ball joint was inserted the other way around. On each ball joint, one side has a slightly bigger diameter than the other side.
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2004, 09:48 PM   #12767
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 783
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by cyba888
I am getting understeer off power exiting corners. Besides changing tire shores how can I correct this?
Why is your car in "off-power" condition when exiting corner ?
GoldFinger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2004, 09:48 PM   #12768
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by cyba888
Its made out of titanium and whats also cool about it is that the holes for the body post sits about 1-2 cm lower than the factory rear shock towers.
The newer and thicker rear shock tower has body post mounts that are 1 or 2 mm lower. Perhaps Dino included that in the titanium shock tower even though the design cutouts resemble the older original rear shock tower.

So far, my new Serpent rear CF shock tower has lasted me.
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2004, 09:50 PM   #12769
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by cyba888
Ran the car today and went really well. I dont think at one time it ran this good. I used 35 shores on all 4. When exiting a corner a get understeer. Is there any way I can correct this without losing more steering?
Try to mount the rear shocks one or two holes more vertical. You could also try 37 shore rear tires. 37 shore rear and 35 shore front should balance the front and rear tire wear nicely.
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2004, 09:51 PM   #12770
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default Re: Re: Re: Short track setups

Quote:
Originally posted by kreidel
Any input on gaining steering?
kreidel, have you tried mounting the rear shocks more vertical? One or two holes more on the rear shock tower?

I found that it gives a very subtle but noticeable difference to steering without messing up the setup too much.
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2004, 09:52 PM   #12771
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Why is your car in "off-power" condition when exiting corner ?
I was about to ask this as well...
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2004, 09:53 PM   #12772
Tech Fanatic
 
Arun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: GA
Posts: 753
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Why is your car in "off-power" condition when exiting corner ?
You beat me...I was going to ask the same thing !
__________________
http://nexusracing.com
Arun is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2004, 09:53 PM   #12773
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by kreidel
The rear traction is great even with the 40 rears and 37 front.
What rear roll center did you use? Stock? Did you try a different rear roll center?
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2004, 09:54 PM   #12774
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 783
Default Re: To Isolate or not is the question?

Quote:
Originally posted by wolfejohne
I am at the stage of putting the servos in my car, and would like to know if I should isolate the servos from mechanical vibration? In the past (15 years) when I raced Hydroplanes we used the rubber isolators that were supplied with the servos. When I changed to Electric 12th and 10th pan cars we mounted the servos solid with no isolators. Now 10 years later with gas cars what is the correct thing to do? I am using Futaba S9350 for steering & S9405 for the throttle. When I try to use the rubber mounts that came with the servos, the hardware supplied is not long enough and the holes in the steering mount are to large the support the brass inserts. I have a picture of Rene Cornella’s 710 I took at the Winternats and it looks like he does not use any servo isolation ( I think).

I tried to post a picture but the file size was two large.
Im still using the rubber grommet but without metal insert(brass) on it. Very tight, but when servo saver works, it have a bit of play.
GoldFinger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2004, 09:54 PM   #12775
Tech Fanatic
 
teammpp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Northern Ireland
Posts: 894
Default Re: To Isolate or not is the question?

Quote:
Originally posted by wolfejohne
I am at the stage of putting the servos in my car, and would like to know if I should isolate the servos from mechanical vibration? In the past (15 years) when I raced Hydroplanes we used the rubber isolators that were supplied with the servos. When I changed to Electric 12th and 10th pan cars we mounted the servos solid with no isolators. Now 10 years later with gas cars what is the correct thing to do? I am using Futaba S9350 for steering & S9405 for the throttle. When I try to use the rubber mounts that came with the servos, the hardware supplied is not long enough and the holes in the steering mount are to large the support the brass inserts. I have a picture of Rene Cornella’s 710 I took at the Winternats and it looks like he does not use any servo isolation ( I think).

I tried to post a picture but the file size was two large.
I mount the steering servo solid without the rubber grommets. With the throttle servo all you need to hold it are 2 small cable-ties threaded through either end of the servo mounting lugs and the holes on the radio plate.
If you really want to do a pro job I would suggest get some silicon gel (clear tile sealant) and put a thin layer between the radio tray and everything it touches.
This will provide a little absortion from the higher vibrations that a nitro car engine produces. Reducing as much of the vibration in the chassis as possible is one of the better places to find that little bit extra power from the engine.
teammpp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2004, 09:57 PM   #12776
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Short track setups

Quote:
Originally posted by Proficar403
First, move the ball cup on the steering arm from the top to the bottom, which gives a little more throw when running less caster.
I think that's the same as mounting the steering linkage on TOP of the servo saver instead of bottom as per the manual.

But does the front belt rub against the steering linkage when the ball cup is mounted on the bottom of the steering arm?
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2004, 09:58 PM   #12777
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default Re: To Isolate or not is the question?

Quote:
Originally posted by wolfejohne
When I try to use the rubber mounts that came with the servos, the hardware supplied is not long enough and the holes in the steering mount are to large the support the brass inserts.
I did not have problems putting the brass inserts and the rubber gromets into the servos.

On gas cars, I would want to use the rubber gromets to isolate the vibration from the engine.
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2004, 09:59 PM   #12778
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Pyramid
hmmmm.. this is new, even when I`m running with old belt (loose) it still never get out from the pulley.
The problem is you have not run the front ball diff yet. On one of the sides (left), it does not have a flange to keep the belt unlike on the oneway pulley. The front diff pulley is something like what you have with the rear diff pulley. I also never had a problem with the front belt on the oneway but recently had the same problems as crashed_1 with the front belt coming off from the front ball diff pulley whenever I make a turn.

I did point this out in my "wish list" not too long ago for Serpent to come out with a more "aggressive" ecenters. The one for the rear of the 950R to fit the 51T rear pulley works fine on the 710 according to Rene. It is able to tighten the belt more because it is more eccentric.
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2004, 10:04 PM   #12779
Tech Master
 
Car Breaker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Grave Yard
Posts: 1,261
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default Re: Re: To Isolate or not is the question?

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I did not have problems putting the brass inserts and the rubber gromets into the servos.

On gas cars, I would want to use the rubber gromets to isolate the vibration from the engine.
Agree, I use the rubber too. If the screw come with is not long enough, Use something else
I have all size of 3M screw sitting at home
Car Breaker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2004, 10:07 PM   #12780
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 783
Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Short track setups

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I think that's the same as mounting the steering linkage on TOP of the servo saver instead of bottom as per the manual.

But does the front belt rub against the steering linkage when the ball cup is mounted on the bottom of the steering arm?
When mounting on the bottom of knuckle, with caster more than 4mm the inside(on the s.saver) ball end hit lower bulkhead.
Big number of downstop can eliminate this, but the car is very "nervous" on high speed sweeper.
GoldFinger is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Serpent 705 J_Longbrake Nitro On-Road 4252 02-23-2015 12:34 AM
WTB: NIB Serpent 710 aN4rK1 R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 3 06-16-2006 09:23 PM
Serpent 835 JFCJ R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 3 02-20-2005 09:29 PM
Trade in Your Old Serpent 710 Parts for New Serpent 710 Parts fast_it710 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 0 09-17-2004 12:27 AM
Serpent Impulse w/MT-12 and Serpent Starter box - cheap Solara R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 2 03-07-2003 03:01 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 06:36 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net